LONDON FASHIONS.

Globe, Volume XXII, Issue 1922, 22 April 1880, Page 4

LONDON FASHIONS.

[“ Queen.”] No one can go much into society, or peruse those columns of “ The Queen ” wherein are shroniclod the doings of the London world, without knowing that there is a distinct style and fashion running through it peculiar to itself, and distinct from “ Paris and all her works.” Many things in dross, great and small, which come to us from Paris, are trans ■ mogrified and meet with a “ sea change,” as Shakespeare has it, before they suit our London ideas, or can bo quite considered “good form.” Then we have many other small fashions which never reach Paris at all, and wo have bonnets and hats, dresses and fichus, which arc all our own, and five out their little day in England alone. It is for these reasons that wc have decided on givinge monthly chronicle of L melon fashions, to which our readers may look for the -.surely English stylo cf tho day, nnd tor tho short notes of “what to wear : ’ in those accessorise of the toilette which make up the harmonious whole. Hr Aim a iWemr.’s and Mr Long's pictures have iniToduo.’d neaklaces amongst us once more. M. Tadema may bo considered responsible for the amber beads, and Mr Long for thou* “ ruws on rows ” of Egyptian blue, wbic ino tv udorn tho necks both o f tho professor and non-professors of tho art of aesthetic dress. When the amber is worn by a dark complexion it is always becoming, and contrasts well ; but one rather questions its suitability when combined with mud-coloured hair and a pale green dress —a mixture which is not unfrequently seen. Tho blue "Venetian glass bends are the prettiest, and are to be obtained in perfection at Salviati’s from tho Murano manufactory. Antique silver ornaments are quite a rage again amongst tho;e who can aiford them. Egyptian necklaces, ancient Roman and Greek coins, are all pressed into the service, both copies and originals being worn. Chatelaine hags, with c'asps from Norway and Germany, ora very popular; and so are antique chatelaines of silver and gold, the greatest care and pains being expended to have the chains, clasps, and appendages of exactly the same date or period. These are all expensive fancies, and, consequently, will not become common ; so they aro the more eagerly taken up by those who like to be different from everyone else. The long thin monograms are the most fashionable for embroidery on lingerie and pocket handkerchiefs, though some ladies still use tho facsimile of thoir handwriting, choosing thsir Christian or pot name to work. A novel style chosen lately by a lady of rank is a letter in outline, with a seal upon it; on the seal aro the initials, very finely embroidered. The School of Art Embroidery has been making several ball muffs, and they will probably become popular. Embroidery is very prettily applied to them; it should match in design tho other flowers of the toilette. One section of tho he a u rnonde keeps to lawn tennis aprons of plain colored silk, satin Pi ueh, and linen for general wear, over short skirts, and plain bodices coming very high in the throat with a band of j sttod black lace in lieu of collars. Bibs both back and front of the bodice, the skirt with the apron, tied with ribbon, completes tho dress, Out of doors many young girls find fur tippets sufficient; but some of the best dressed have long jackets, quite tight at the waist and reaching to the horn of the skirt made of the same material or silk and trimmed with fur. A black ja'ln muff of tho new shape, trimmed with lace, and having bows to match any toilette, secured with metal flies or beetles, gives a dressy finish. Capotes made of a piece of the gown are in favor, the brim black velvet, the crown a threecornered piece, one point secured in front, the rest lying in graceful folds ; or the black baavur hats that cun bo bent into any shape most becoming to tho wearer; a satin rosette of the color requhod at tho side. The hair is still dressed low at the nape of the neck, but the curls extend further back, the cross parting coming in tho middle of tho hsad, the curls standing up higher over tho face. In tho evening a simple band of flowers is placed immediately behind, in lieu of a wreath or Grecian filets. Short dresses of cream-colored silk or Madras muslin prevail in bull rooms ; they are trimmed with plaiting* of 6cru Valenciennes, made with banded bodices half high, cut as though a rou"dsd yoke had been taken out back and front, ti..■> lace tucker having an invisible string quite as the edge, to draw it tightly. The tunics in front mostly cross, window curtain fashion, over alternate box plaiting* of satin. Black velvet lav/ bodices are tho newest, with black tulle piped with the color of tho flowers, which are of gigantic size.

Striped petticoat skirting has been lately turned to a new use, and that is for making neat plain bodices to match the skirts, with a broad scarf twisted round the hips, and looped long at the back. This material is warm and thick, but answers very well for skating and tennis dresses. The bodice is tight-fitting, without trimming, except bows at the throat and wrists, and is made after the style of tho Jersey bodice. It is either opened and neatly hooked up half-way down the front, or up tho back, and is joined to tho skirt underneath the broad scarf, and just below tho hips. Narrow striped dark blue and gold, with blue scarf and bows, or dark crimson and black, with crimson or black scarf, aro fashionable. The best material is that with narrow stripes, as it is most becoming to tho figure, and less striking. Being a stout stuff, it requires to be well made and fitting. If a whole costume is required, tho half tight-fitting jacket is of the same as the scarf, and tho toque is of the skirting, with a puckered band cf the plain. Some jackets have a hood, moveable or not, at wilt, lined with the striped material. Those dresses are of course very plain, and are only euitable for tennis, skating or country wear. Sometimes a pinafore of dark material is worn instead of the scarf, showing the striped undorbodice ; but this is chiefly for children or very young girls, A few costumes have been made in this style with plush of rich colour, and broad scarf of cashmere, and worn with a plush toque. Some of the new toques of plush and velvet aro made with a drooping end like a tassel, and, before being placed on the head, have much the appearance of a man’s tassollod and pointed nightcap. They fit tightly round the head, and have a hand of stiff muslin, about three inches in width, inside, which forma the brim ; tho rest of the cap is patted down on to tho head, and the end allowed to fail over on. one side.

Amongst the favorite of the fashions of the day mention must be made of the long gloves, colled by their manufacturer the “Nell Q-wynne ” gloves. They reach above the elbow, and are held up by a ruohing of ribbon and lace, in which is concealed an elastic running string; they are without buttons. Bare throo at the wrist. The favorite color for them, even for evening wear with the leaders c£ fashion, in yellow ; and, as they are peav de Suede, they have, as may bo imagined, an essentially undressed appearance. Some novelties in the way of bid gloves have designs worbed on them in colored silk?, and some hsvo designs worked on them in colored silks, and some have painted flowers and leaves in a band round the top. Both black and cream colored have this ornamentation. Plain kid shoes have something similar on the instep, and even on the heel. Ladies with a teste for painting might decorate their own gloves and shoos. Evening slippers of silk would be pleasant work, and vvonld repay trouble by showing to advantage with tha short skirts worn for dancing.