NEW STYLES AND COMING FASHIONS.

Globe, Volume XXI, Issue 1764, 15 October 1879, Page 4

NEW STYLES AND COMING FASHIONS.

[“Milliner and Dressmaker.”] The slight in figure continue to be especially favoured by Fashion. The panier is particularly adapted to the slender, though, with skilful management and when very slightly bouffant, it has the effect of rendering a rather thick waist comparatively small in appearance. The tiny panier of the present day has little in common with the enormous carcasse de laiton, with rows upon rows of cane or whalebone and fluted crinoline, which our ancestresses managed as best they might. Whalebone enters, however, into the organisation of the present panier, though this mode of distension has not yet been generally adopted in England. This contrivance is from ten to fifteen inches in length and six in width, and only gives the wearer (if slight) the appearance of rather well-de-veloped hips. Sometimes, when the basque of the jacket interferes with the original position of the panier, the latter is dislodged from the hips to take up a lower position. This, too, is a difference from the panier of 1787, which distended the drapery in a direction almost at right angles with the line of the waist. The following instructions as to the mode of cutting the skirt of a short costume may be found useful. Made almost round, the skirt should not touch the ground at any point, but should clear it by at least two inches. If the wearer has pretty feet, she may make it three, with advantage. It consists of a front breadth measuring thirty inches across at the lower edge; of two gores, each measuring fourteen inches, and of one etraight breadth which measures a yard in width, being the usual width of linings and calico. This gives a total width of two yards and twenty-two inches. This allowance is for a medium-sized figure. The back breadth is gored in the middle. The ■whole ia mounted into a flat band, which fits the hips exactly. The tunic is not separate, but is fastened on the skirt just behind this band. Nothing could possibly bo more convenient than this costume. It is easily put on, and looks very well. It is usually worn with a jacket of a totally different colour. For simple toilets it usually consists of black Pekin, velvet and silk, or satin and silk. For more ceremonious occasions. Pompadour brooches or cashmeres are used. We have observed a toilet of black silk trimmed with jet, with jacket of grenat satin with Pompadour designs in flowers. Another costume of biscuit coloured crSpe de I’lnde, trimmed with gendarme bine satin ribbon, was completed with a jacket of Pompadour brochd on a gendarme bine ground. The pocket-handkerchief costume has leached Paris from London, and excites much attention wherever it is seen. Its singularity does not make it beautiful in Parisian eyes. The handkerchiefs are sold by the mitre; fifteen handkerchiefs suffice for a costume. The borders are sometimes out off one or two of the number, and placed here and there as trimmings. Coloured petticoats are now worn again. Batiste is the favourite material. They have one or more flaunces, trimmed with Breton lace, or the multi-coloured Prague lace, with its blue and red arabesques. Surah and foulard are also used for these petticoats. The rage for cashmeres increases instead of diminishing. We shall probably soon see flowers and feathers made of cashmere, as was done in 1807 and 1808, It deserves popularity, being a charming material. The Monteapan capote promises to be very fashionable. It has a square crown, with the brim cut away above the forehead and at the back, but very wide at each side of the face, like a Flemish coiffure. A Parisian modiste has made one with the orown of crimson silk, and the edges of black straw entirely covered with masses of black feathers. A new material ia in Indian foulard, called foulard tigrd. It resembles the skin of a tiger, consisting, as it does, of yellow and black zigzag lines upon a ground of old gold striped with amber. Such is the effect of richness imparted to the foulard by the design, that one would imagine the material 1o bo as thick as fur. Some of the newest colours are, “ pheasant,” “ giraffe,” and “ panther.” At the races at Fontainebleau, the ladies had the appearance of having come straight from the unfortunate Marie Antoinette’s dairy at the Petit Trianon. Foulards, with cashmere designs looped up en panier or a la Watteau, were universally worn ; the trimmings consisting of garlands of flowers, ■Bilk ruches, and Valenciennes or Mechlin lace. Hats, as well as dresses, were of the Louis Seize period, and, instead of in the fashion plates, it is in the galleries of Versailles that Pr.risiennes now seek their models. Insectomania still rages. Scarabei, 'flies, and glow-worms dispute the ground with the ever-popular butterflies and bees. Bonnets are of the Directoire, the Anvergnat, and the Bobespierre shapes. Many bonnets are overloaded with flowers, which appear upon almost every portion of the toilstte- Some go so far as to wear roses on their petticoats. We have seen a black silk costume, with garlands of tea-roses outlining the gathers of the paniers. A bnnch of similar flowers was placed on the left shoulder. Parasols are lavishly trimmed with flowers, roses above all. Sleeves become shorter and shorter, retreating up the arm in proportion as gloves advance in length.