FASHIONS.

Globe, Volume XXI, Issue 1758, 8 October 1879, Page 4

FASHIONS.

[“Milliner and Dressmaker.”] The new Pompadour washing cambrics, which are having such a run upon public favour at present, show remarkably pretty floral designs, and an almost endless variety as to pattern and colouring. But throughout we find a general similarity of colour, and a reproduction of old styles. Mixtures of bright colours prevail; the surfaces are closely covered, and the minute buds, small leaves and blossoms are bestowed sometimes in close sprays, or again show a delicate and thickly interwoven tracery. For ordinary wear the groundwork is in dark shades of blue, brown, green, &c., and this is strewn over with flowers and leaves in light colours or white, although sometimes we may observe the employment of bright shades of red, blue, or yellow on sober tints. Frequently, however, the surfaces are white, or overcast by grey or yellow, upon which the many-coloured buds and flowers, with attendant leaves of gieen, show to no small advantage. Borderings of rich traceries, formed by clustering vines falling in graceful confusion, are to be seen, or in lieu thereof we find plain-coloured prints to be used in combination, giving evidence that the union of two materials has not yet grown obsolete. Other styles of prints display floral designs on clouded groundworks, and here also we find every variety of colour, light, dark, grave or gay, brought into requisition; while again, on clear surfaces, either white, pale, bright or dark-coloured, are found flowers, buds, and leaves wrought with a certain indistinctness. Oftentimes a velvety appearance is produced. Cotton satteens are more attractive than ever this season, and show both the favourite floral patterns and also the combinations of narrow stripes. This brings us to the question of stripes, and it is safe to say that they are a leading feature in new materials, pervading all classes of goods, sometimes in combination with flowers, or frequently forming in themselves the entire attraction. In the latter case, they bear the general name of pekin patterns, an appellation which may be applied with propriety wherever the characteristic stripes appear, as in like manner the floral fancies of the season come under the heading of jardiniere designs; this being derived from jardin, the French for garden. In the narrow stripes just mentioned, the combinations and alterations of colour are great, yet here, in general, we do not observe such brightness as in tha jardiniere fabrics. Some, however, are quite gay. The various shades of beige, or greenishgrey, seem to be tha favourites in woollen materials. They not unfreqnently are flecked by threads of darker tone running crosswise, and reminding us of the streaks to be observed upon the sky. Others show fine twills or diaper patterns, while again we find varieties exhibiting long hairs lying fiat over the surface, these being copied after the India camel’s-hair goods, which were so highly esteemed during the winter season. Small and somewhat indistinct checks composed of diverse shades of grey or brown give additional chance for selection. These materials are all-wool and quite thin, and have what is termed a “ flannel finish l "whioh renders them very soft to the tonch. For travelling and general wear during the summer they will he found excellent, and of course will have ready sale. They are usually sold in single widths of twenty-four and doable widths of forty-six inches. Some new wool, and silk and wool fabrics, however, are bestrewn with bright threads running apparently at random, showing in glimpses now here, now there, but not unfrequently in the midst of snoh confusion there is order, for the outlines of small checks or plaids are visible. Pekin wools display surfaces covered with narrow stripes set close one to the other, or sometimes again •we see minute pin-head checks. These are grave alternations of different shades of brown or grey. The floral ideas of the time also find representation in thin silk and wool materials, designed for spring and summer, and pretty effects result from silken leaves and flowers on a woollen surface.

Rich silk and wool materials show very bright combinations of different colours, the designs being floral, and quite covering the surface with Persian effect. From such more pronounced ideas, which yet are refined by means of the fine quality both of dye and fabric, the patterns become toned down until some charming results are attained by the employment of the bluish-green and olive shadings now so fashionable. There is no doubt that the present popularity of brocades and fancifully-devised wool, and silk and wool materials used in combination with plain silk or velvet, has affected the sale and manufacture of silks proper. Nevertheless, we find the latter class of fabrics always in demand. New summer silks are in dark shades of plum, brown, garnet, marine, olive and green, overcast with old gold, cream, blue, red, grey, and the lighter wine shades. In pure silk and in foulards, repetitions of the variour Indian, Persian, and Chinese damasses and melanges are to be observed ; sometimes the patterns being only in flowers, or again in combination with pekin stripes. Pronounced silks are in peacock patterns ; oftentimes in very bright colours, or again in sober shades. Guipure is the name given to a class of open-work fabrics of silken texture, which are in alternating stripes of medium width. Every combination of colour may be observed, but the ecru shades are perhaps more frequently employed; these being united either in different shades or with other colours, both grave and gay. Effective silks, either _ white or in pale shades, are wrought in jardiniere stripes of medium width.

Mousseline de sole is a new and charming summer material. In black, it will be a resource for those who are obliged to wear mourning. It is, as its name implies, a mixture of fine linen threads with those of silk. It is very soft, very light, very fine, drapes well, and can be worn either by day or in the evening,