PARIS FASHIONS.

Globe, Volume XXI, Issue 1749, 27 September 1879, Page 4

PARIS FASHIONS.

[Prom the " Queen.”]

The effect of the seaside and spas on woman's dress is remarkable. Costumes may be simple enough in Paris “ tireo a quartre epingles ” ns we say ; but once on the seashore the same Parisiennes might bo beracres in an opera eoraique, or have arranged themselves to sit to Taahey for their portraits; and now that they have adopted the new Heibein hats, the effect of their appearance is certainly picturesque. The Bembrandt hais have been supplanted, aa Mmo. Caroline ftebous has introduced the plumed hats that were in vogue in Louis Xll.’s reign, the style of the sixteenth century being evidently preferred to that of the seventeenth. These Holbein bats ire made of coarse black or white straw (generally the former) ; the brim is very .vide, the left side is lowered almost below the ear, the edge being bound with gathered black velvet, and the feather falls in tufU over the right side of the brim which turns up. One of our elegantes has been inspired with e pretty fashion of trimming these hais with large fichus. The foundation of the fie.hu is Mechlin net, and the border is old Mechlin lace ; the fichu is arranged on the hat with one corner falling over the face, another over the hair, the remaining corners serving for a large bow at the hack. The same style is worn in black net, trimmed with black Chantilly, and these Duchesse tichus also serve for mantillas, neckties, Ac For come inscrutable reason there appears to have arisen a great desire to utilise handkerchiefs as dress materials. I frequently described during the summer of 1878 the dreuses that were made of Madras handkerchiefs. Hie snmm‘>r of 1879 will sea dresses trimmed with checked foulard handkerchiefs, the checks being small in the centre and like Scotch plaids for the border, but with two colors only, and those always matching the centre ; the favorite contrasts are shot red and dark blue, old gold and black, and lastly, black and white. Mmc. Muller Gilbert has turned out several dresses trimmed with these foulard handkerchiefs. One, for example, has a foundation of black silk, which, by the way, is not seen ; the front is trimmed with four flounces of the checked black and white foulard, and with flots of black satin ribbon in a continuous line down the centre of the flounces ; three' poufs of similar foulard at the back; bodice of black merveilleuse satin, with foulard par:era made out of two handkerchiefs ; peasant’s fichu in foulard trimmed with lace, small foulard and lace revers on the, sleeves. The Ferine is a very fashionable dress at this season ; it is made in wool, in silk, and in all light materials, according to the time of day it is to be worn; I will describe three varieties: — For Mornings —Red woollen skirt, striped with white; scarf tunic of navy blue cashmere, bordered at both edges with a band of cambric, studded with red Pompadour flowers. Blue cashmere casaquin opening over a flowered cambric chemisette, which is gathered from the centre to the edge of the bodice. Largo blue square collar, fastened with a flat of red satin ribbon, and bordered with a cambric band. For Afternoon. —Skirt of caroubier red satin, flowered with old-gold. Red foulard tunic, draped “en paniera.” Satin casaquin trimmed with an Indienne band, outlined with gold. The collar and cuffs embroidered all over with gold, and edged with old Mechlin lace.

For Evening.—Skirt of white Indian muslin, over pale pink slip ; the front trimmed with bouillonnes of mnslin and rows of Mechlin lace. Pink and blue striped Watteau scarf, draped round the skirt, and forming paniera on the hips. Bodice with gathered front, and a bouquet at the side, the material being similar to the scarf. Pale blue fall sleeves, with Mechlin ruffles. Striped collar, fastened with a Pompadour bow.

White will be enormously worn now the fine weather has set in, and French nainsook, Indian muslin, and pique profusely trimmed with embroidery are the favorite materials. Muslin mantelets, trimmed with Breton lace, are worn with the muslin dresses. The waistband and sash cn white dresses are now of white satin or black velvet. The bouquet on the bodice is of white rosebuds or else of white daisies. There is not a touch of color in the toilette. The skirt is almost invariably short, the shoes are low so that the stockings are just visible ; they are either pale blue or dark red ailk. Embroidered flounces are the favorite trimming. Bodices of colored foulard, gathered at both shoulders and waist, are often worn for a change with white skirts. Chenille embroidery and Breton lace, plaited and frilled, are the principal trimmings. As with pale pick costumes, so with white ones, black is much used with the accessories. The fan will be white wood, with black silhouettes on the leaves. The long laoe mitts will bo black Chantilly, and black velvet loops form the trimming of the hat. For afternoon and evening wear, dotted Swiss muslin, over a colored slip, is worn ; the bodice will be silk to match, and the gloves and shoes will also match ; the fichu, of China crepe, is likewise colored.

When we come to cotton dresses colors run riot, and the more quaint the contrast, the more it is admired. Ginghams of mixed pink and blue trimmed with coarse Russian lace ; likewise brown plain ginghams, trimmed with pink batiste killings and narrow Breton edgings, are all worn at the seaside. Among the cambrics, those with cream ground aud chintz figures are moat in demand. The make is a round-waiated bodice, gathered at the shoulders and in front of the waist, a belt of creamy leather known as “alligator skin” being worn above. Parallel lines of small gathers are noticeable in many of the new toilettes, one of the most general consists in massing the fulness of the top breadths of long skirts in a cluster of gathers at least two fingers deep, and attaching this flat gathering to the end of the back of the basque. White foulard is prominent in summer toilettes. There are jackets made of it, and worn with gay-colored skirts. The trimming is Breton or Spanish lace. White foulard is also used for petticoats that are gored closely to the figure and trimmed with two killings, edged with lace, Quimpes and chemisattea made of white foulard, are exceedingly pretty with the Pompadour dresses. The Mme. Tallien mantelet will also be much worn as the year advances ; it is cut straight like a scarf, and is of fine Indian cashmere lined with light foulard. It has a large collarette at the neck made of a cashmere plaiting, and forming at the top a thick ruche lined with foulard ; a similar trimming edges the mantelet. It is worn for example in carmelite cashmere lined with ruby foulard, in silver grey cashmere lined with sou' 6 foulard, in black cashmere lined with straw foulard, Ac. Eliane de Mahsy.