THE FASHIONS IN PARIS AND LONDON.

Globe, Volume XXI, Issue 1736, 12 September 1879, Page 4

THE FASHIONS IN PARIS AND LONDON.

["Milliner and Dressmaker."]

"When" we are to adopt our summer clothing, is a problem that July (which haß not as a rule been the first summer month) we may reasonably hope, will solve. At present the costumes for warm weather are more to be seen upon frames of wire or wood thanupo': ii>:man ones; but very pretty they are, and how fane fal in both colour and design. We noticed in last month, that the reign (a long one it has been) of quiet shades of colour and neutral tints, is almost over, and in tho fashion for July we see no reason to alter onr statement, for if anything they are gayer than ever. If it was not that the numerous colours wero used in infinitesimal quantities, mere threads in fact, and blended with exquisite taste, it would be impossible to admire some of tho new materials which are veritably "all the colours of the rainbow." Till late seasons red hns never been a colour much wo r n with spring and Bummer toilettes, but it is cow a very favourite one, only being rivalled by various shades of yellow, P.cd parasols are to be used when we need any shade from the sun, and red Sonnois aro often to be scon. Dead or old silver is a pretty colour, and mixes well with darker tints, in satin it is often combined with dark bines, prunes, and olives with good effect. Shot Bilks are still in favour, and atill make elvgaut costumes. One lately made b 7 a Parisian modiste, was of silk of this kind white shot with two shades of yellow, trimmed with dark blue velvet. Tho skirt had at the bottom a gathered fljunce bound with velvet and put on with tabs of the same; above this flormce were two very kilted ones, the upper one of which was stitched in tho centro and formed a ruche. The train was a loDg square cut one, draped in a pouf, under which is a broad fringed end of velvet slightly drawn up. A continuation of this slight breadth of velvet was divided into three pieces (also fringed) which carried as scarves acros3 the front and fastened one above the other on the left side with agraffes. The long jacket bodice fastened only to the top of the waist with three gold buttons, from thence both at the top and the basques; it was cut sharply away, showing a waistcoat of velvet which had the effect of a plastron, it being fastened behind. The slceve3 which had at the wrist two very narrow pleating?, were further ornamented with scarves of velvet with fringed ends which were fastened just below the elbow on the outsido seam, the other end being hidden under the pleating at the inside seam. Walking and lawn tennis dreßses are still made auite short —in fact, rather Bhorter than during the spring season, and it is predicted that era long we shall be wearing them to show the ankle as well as the foot. As a necessary consequence of this fashion there is an immense variety in the colour and design of both shoes and stockings, the former being just now more worn than boots. As we predicted, the small caps and pelerines have become quite a furore. They are seldom plain unless of the same material as the dress, and the black ones aro completely covered with lace, passementerie, fringe, and oth,?r trimmings, in which a great deal of jet is introduced. Speaking of trimmings we must not forget to notice the beauty of soma of tho materials used for this purpose Satins of all shades are embroidered by hand in stripes, which can be cut off and used, as we do embroiiljry, for dresses. The designs are most beautiful, and tho colours are worked in natural colours. Then there are soft Persian and Indian silks, which form charming scarves for ornamenting cream or white cashmere dresses, and Pompadour silk, which formerly was chiefly used for evening dresses, is now blended with good effect with dark olives, blues, and black silks or satins, Fringes are perfect works of art, and as they are used to match not one but all the shades of the material they are required to trim, their name is legion. Striped ribbons are used often for the trimming of bonnets, and we have particularly noticed some cf a creamy tint with broad bands of old gold or silver at the edgis, with a delicate wreath of flowers between. Parasols must cow be had to match the dress or chief colour of it. They are most beautifully embroidered with flowers of natural colour, and trimmed with lace, fringes, and ribbons. A good many striped ones are to be seen, and some are made in as many as sixteen divisions. Mousseline de laine (an old friend) is again a favourite material for walking and carriage toilettes, and Indian cashmere is blended with all kinds of richer materials. One of the prettiest carriage toilettes I have lately seen was also one of the simplest; It was composed of rich black silk and dove coloured cashmere. The plain silk Ekirt waß very long, and had a narrow kilted flounce at the bottom, Ihe train was a long Princess one, of cashmere, very much draped behind, and drawn up a little oa the hips so as to form slight panicrs. It was entirely unexcept at the bottom, where a perfectly plain woollen fringe to match in colour was sewn under tho broad stiched hem, It was made quite high to the throat, where it was finished with a narrow collar lined with black silk, and fastened with jet buttons down the front. The sleeves were of silk, with tiny pleatinga to form a cuff, and bows of black ribbon. Over the shoulders was worn a fichu pelerine of cashmere, which was simply edged with fringe like that at the bottom of the tunic, with the ends loosely tied in front. The bonnet was a very simple and a very small one, of dove-coloured foulard, with strings of ribbon to match in colour, crossing the crown and tyeing it undor the chin, The brim was lined with black velvet. The front of the crown, a little to the left, was a cluster of scarlet poppies, which just gave sufficient relief to a charming though somewhat (in these days of gaj colours) Quakerish costume. In costumes of two materials sometimes only the long tightly fitting jacket is of one, which is sometimes made with an opening, either tqnaro or triangular, at tho neck, showing a simulated waistcoat of the other material underneath.

Another way of U6ing the two materials is to have the front part of the false underskirt covered with one material, and the front of the long tunic which coverß it cut horizontally across in two or more places, the scaives thus formed being drawn up in the centre of each with bows of ribbon, with a great many falling loops. Chintz dresses are favourites for morning wear, and the dark ones are often flowered with bright colours and trimmed with a linen to match, Seme pretty ones for garden partiej are made of hempen cloth and Bolton sheeting trimmed with washing satteen, and sometimes with soft silks. For more dressy toilets, Indian muslirj, both white and coloured, is employed. One of the most elegant enshmeren I have 3een was made of this in pure white, profusely trimmed with pleated Breton lace, the front cf the skirt being covered with frills of thia alternating with pleated onoa of muslin, A fichu of the muslin nearly covered with lace was tied over the shoulders.

The hat, a white fancy straw one, was also lined and trimmed with mualin, and round the crown was a quilliag of lace with a large cluster cf white and red poppies where the brim was turned up on the left side.