THE FASHIONS IN PARIS AND LONDON.

Globe, Volume XXI, Issue 1711, 14 August 1879, Page 4

THE FASHIONS IN PARIS AND LONDON.

[“Milliner and Dressmaker.”] It has so long been customary to choose lor outdoor costumes either very unobtrusive greys or browns, black, or dark olives, greens, &0., that we have grown accustomed to it, and it is quite startling to see the many bright colours now fashionable for all toilettes. There ia quite a change this season in this matter, and tho new materials and their trimmings are gay in the extreme. Noticeable amongst them are the cambrics and the washing foulards for morning dresses which, while they recall the style of those worn long ago, are a very great improvement upon them, both in design and colouring, I have seen some dresses made of these materials which formed part of the bridal trousseau of a young lady going to India, who had consequently an immense number of washing costumes. One made of a sort of thick cambric had an <scru ground with a pattern going all over it of pink hawthorn. The skirt was qnite short, and ornamented with three frills very finely kilted of plain pink cambric. These frills which were of different depths, tho bottom one being five inches, the next four, and the upper one three, were put on about two inches apart with an embroidered open-work insertion, above which they formed their own heading. The tnnic which opened in front and formed paniers, was edged with a deep frill of embroidery to match the insertion above, which was a narrow kilted frill of pink put on like the flounces of the skirt with a band of insertion. The back of tho tunic, which consisted of one long straight breadth, under which the edges of the paniers were drawn up, was trimmed to correspond and draped with bows of broad pink ribbon. The bodice, pointed both back and front, was quite untrimmed save for a frill of embroidery at tbe throat, and was piped with pink. The sleeves had frills of embroidery, and above that fiuely pleated ones of cambric, upon which were bows of pink ribbon. The stockings to be worn with this dress (for one must hare always stockings to match a dress) were pink Lisle thread one?, embroidered all the way up the front in white silk. The hat was of fancy straw, with a brim tnrned up in front and waved behind, lined with pink satin, and trimmed with pink and white hawthorn and white Breton face. Another morning toilet was also of cambric of two kinds, one plain dove-colour, and the other a white with a dove coloured pattern running over it. The front of the short skirt was covered with broad folds of the two materials placed alternately, and behind was a deep kilted flounce of plain grey. The Princess tunic was of the figured cambric, turned up laveuao fashion in front, with a lining of grey, and tied back with a large bow of crimson satin, Tho sleeves had narrow kiltings of grey, and the buttons were ivory ones. The hat was a very pretty one, made of fine white chip, trimmed with a ruche of white silk ent en bias and frayed at the edges, and with a half wreath of daisies, both Marguerites and the small field ones, mixed with moss and grass. The brim, which ia turned up on one side, was lined with drawn crimson satin.

A dinner dress made for the same bride is particularly elegant. It is composed of a rather dark shade of old gold satin, and troche silk of all colours in which the preponderance of the gold softens the effect. The satin skirt had at the bottom a crossway flounce of the same, edged with a very narrow kilting drawn very slightly at intervals to form little bouillonnes. Above this the tablier is covered with folds of satin going across, and upon it are two long pointed pieces of broche silk reaching from under tho basques where they meet in front, to the top of the flounce where tho points are finished with silk tassels of all the colours. The flounce ia continued round the train, which ia composed of two shawlshaped pieces of satin lined with broche, so arranged and draped as to show about as much of one side as the other.

The deep basque of the jacket are opened at the seams on either side of tho centre one behind, showing pleatinga of the silk beneath.

The sleeves are of silk, long and tightlyfitting, turned back to form cuffs, with satin lining them. Round the shoulders, and knotted in front, is a fringed scarf of broche silk, and the throat is finished with a jabot of lace.

A fanciful dress, -worn at an afternoon at home, is made of cream cashmere and soft flowered ..Indian silk. The latter has a cream coloured ground, with a pattern of very small pink and crimson flowers with dark sage green leaves. The cashmere skirt has at the bottom a croasway gathered flounce of the same, headed by a ruche lined with silk. Above this the tablier is drawn in its entire length. The tunic, a very long one of the silk, is drawn up to the basques in the centre of the front with a bow of pink, crimson, and sage green ribbons. From thence it is drawn hack, forming paniers, and behind where it is very fully draped, it is cut square and reaches to the top of the flounce. At the edges is a silk fringe, green, pink, and crimson. The long basqued bodice is of cashmere and fastend behind. In front, it has a pleated plastron of silk, which simulates a waistcoat, on either side of which are bands of silk as rezera. The sleeves are of silk reaching to the elbow, where they are lined with cashmere and turned back and finished with double frills of pleated Breton lace.

Long gloves are of course necessary with this costume, and many visiting toilets are now made in this style with sleeves only reaching to the elbow. Lovely evening dresses are made of the Chameleon silks now so fashionable. Some of these silks in shades of yellow, green, and pale blue, are charming, One of these shot apricot, green and white, trimmed with the first-named colour in velvet and a profusion of white lace, was lovely. The ornaments worn with it were of pearls, which are still very fashionable for evening toilet. Toques or caps, entirely made of flowers, are taking the place of those composed of silk, satin, or gauze. Some have very large full-blown rosea entirely covering the crown, and the border formed of leaves placed over a frill of lace. Others are of moss, which is most beautifully imitated now, and the real moss carefully dyed and prepared is also used, with sprays of flowers intermixed. I noticed one very becoming head dress worn by a very dark girl, whose dress was of black satin and tulle, made of crimson Indian silk with bows of black and gold, and a border of tiny gold coins, which gave quite an Eastern effect.

Fine chips, either cream-coloured, white, or black ones, are fashionable bonnets, the crowns only of which can be seen, as the brims are entirely covered with flowers. White lilac and hyacinths have been the shief favourites, but they are now giving place to roses of all colours and other summer flowers. For bonnets as well as headdresses moss is largely used, and some are made entirely of it with just a few flowers. A pretty one is entirely composed of brown and green moss, white Breton lace, and pink rosebuds. Another has a crown of primrose satin, and a border of moss and primroses. Another is made of elder flowers and leaves, with a frill of lace just showing under the brim, and strings of shot silk, green and white. One of black chip has the brim covered with rose leaves, and on the lgft_sido whcro it turns up showing a lining of black satin, is a cluster of tea roses and a butterfly. Another chip honnet has the brim embroidered with poppies in crimson silk, and is trimmed with a scarf of black gauze, a plume of black feathers, and a bouquet of poppies. A white chip cne, with a very broad brim waved behind, is embroidered with forget-me-nots and their leaves, and lined with blue to match. The only trimming consists of a single white feather, almost uncurled, fastened by a bow of white satin, lined with blue.

Dolman-shaped mantles are still more worn than any others, and are very elaborately trimmed. Fringes are very generally used for these, and lace is also a favourite trimming mixed with beaded gimp. n Small lace and gimp, or passementerie pelerines will, with warmer weather, take the place of these, but it seems that black ygtementa, whether small or large, will be worn with almost every toilette. Black parasols are also fashionable, either quite!.plain with allbdwjlof broad satin' ribbon, either black or coloured, or embroidered in silks. -

Somo of the latter are really beautiful.. X noticed some with sprays of maiden-hair fern upon each division, with a bow of shaded green satin ribbon that might be used with .nfcaoat any toilette.,. Another

ona had irregular sprays of whits jessamine most beautifully embroidered, and another had bouquets of mixed flowers with a frill of gauze embroidered in colours at the edge. A novelty for trimming dresses and for lingerie, is the painted lace introduced by a French lady, who painted a quantity herself to trim a dress for a ball. The flowers, which in the lace are closely copied from nature, are painted in natural colours and it forms a very pretty trimming, but (as it will not wash) rather an extravagant one. An enormous quantity of lace is now used, not only for the trimming of dresses, but for lingerie. The cravats and jabots of lace are very voluminous, and require a great many yards to make them full enough. For these the Breton lace ia still the favourite one, being inexpensive, pretty, and light, and it is almost the only lace that looks well pleated, as it is now so generally used. The beautiful Indian _ shawls so fashionable for visiting toilettes in the spring of the year, have not been worn this season, owing to the necessity of having to retain our furs, and now it is too late (wo hope) for anything so warm as cashmere. For a summer wrap, I have seen a most lovely shawl called the “ Oramberg,” which though measuring two yards square, could with ease be drawn through an ordinary finger ring, and although it was so light in texture that it seemed as if the merest puff of wind might blow it away, it was, nevertheless, both strong and warm. These shawls are in grey, ecru, and whits, the latter being the prettiest. We have now waistcoats of all kinds, some of them embroidered satin trimmed with laee, hut the most fashionable arc the white ones embroidered also in white, and those of Pekin, or plain faille, embroidered with wreaths or sprays of flowers. A pretty baby’s pelisse is of fine white serge, with a band of peacock blue cashmere round both cape and skirt, on which is an embroidery in silk of white jessamine. The collar if also of cashmere embroidered to correspond, and the cape is lined with peacock blue foulard.