LADIES’ COLUMN.

Globe, Volume XXI, Issue 1705, 7 August 1879, Page 4

LADIES’ COLUMN.

NEW STYLES AND COMING FASHIONS. [“Milliner and Dressmaker.”] Daring a longer ■winter tlian we have (fortunately) known for years, we have had ample time to devise materials and styles for spring and summer; but former have scarcely been needed, and wo find ourselves in the “month of roses” almost before we have had time to shake the snow from our winter garments. Speaking first of the walking costumes, we are glad to notice that they are still to bo worn short. The fashion of having them with demi-trains (a most ugly one in onr opinion, lacking the grace of the long trained skirt, without the comfort o' the short one) has happily disappeared, and wo now have no need of any means wherewith to loop them up. They are still worn covered with trimming, and the skirts are usually false ones, that is to say, when the tunic or garniture covers all but the flounces at the bottom of the skirt, the remainder is usually of a different material. The tunics are not separate, they are formed or simulated by the drapery arranged on the before mentioned false skirt. Paniers still continue to bo worn, in fact, they are increasing in size, and the tightly fitting robes will soon become fashions of the past. A toilet of plain ecru tussore mixed with flowered Pompadour tussore, will serve to illustrate the prevailing style. The skirt is ono of the false ones, of which we have spoken, and its trimming consists of a pleated frill of plain tussore, above which is a crossway band of Pompadour gathered in the centre. In front is a plastron ten inches wide of plain tussore in folds the entire length. On either side of this plastron aro breadths of Pompadour, drawn at the edges and fastened upon the skirt at the aeim at tho back ; behind a Straight breadth of plain tussore with a hem two inches wide, draped in a good many pleats, falls to the top of the trimming at the bottom of the skirt.

Small rounded paniera of plain tussore, trimmed with Breton lace, are drawn away from the front and fastened with very tiny pleats under the straight breadths behind. The jacket is of plain tussore opening over a waistcoat of tho Pompadour, which shows to the depth of four inches below the basques, as far as the seams on either side of the centra one behind. These two pieces of the jacket are longer and hide the waistcoat, and are arranged in two pleats, and are open at the centre ream to the waist. A jabot of Breton lace and Watteau buttons complete this pretty costume. Another is of fancy armure de soie (a small Pompadour pattern upon a grenot ground). The false skirt is ornamented with a flounce ten inches deep, put on in large pleats. Above this the tablier is formed of straight breadths of material arranged in broad folds, which fall over tho flounce. The small paniera, which are trimmed with frills of Breton lace, headed by a coquille of the same, are divided in front and pleated to the centre seam behind. The ornamentation of the back of the costume is exactly the same as that in the preceding ones. The corsage has basques, square cut in front, and cut away at the hips from tho second front pleat to the seam on cither side of the centre one behind. This opening is filled in with a orossway pleated band placed underneath. The buttons are inlaid mother-of-pearl ones. A third costume is of sky blue chalis Pokin, trimmed with ecru Russian lace. In front is a plastron of two rows of lace sewn point to point over the chalis. At the bottom Is a pleated flounce of chalis surmounted by a pleated frill of lace. On the left side of the plastron a breadth of material forming its own heading, which hides the edge of the lace, is stitched on with blue silk. This breadth is flat and plain, from the waist to about half-way down the skirt where it is arranged in three pleats, and trimming at the bottom of the skirt. Bows of blue satin ribbon are fixed upon the groups of pleats, and at the bottom it is ornamented with a flat row of lace turned up upon the edge. The breadth, on the right side of the plastron, is drawn, and the edges aro hidden under a cascade of loops of satin ribbon. The edges of the breadths are hidden behind under a straight one which forms a pouf crossed by a scarf of chalis, lined with blue satin, fastened with a large knot on the left side.

Small paniera trimmed 'with lace. The jacket-bodice ia open en chale, with turned back collar covered with lace. The edges of the basques are turned up, being lined with the material cut en bias.

The sleeves, which do not quite reach to the wrist, have a flat trimming of lace, below which ia a pleating of chalis. For trained dresses, short tunics, forming Louis XV. poufs, reaching about half-way down the skirt, where they are hidden under a drapery and bow with broad ends, are fashionable.

Another style is that of a long waved train, with trimming all round and up the aides.

Although these costumes are very different to those lately worn, they are literally but revivals of old fashioned ones, aud it seems to us that the chief novelties are in materials and patterns. There is great variety in the shape and style of the mantles just now, but very small ones, say mantelet of fichu shape, are taking the place of the dolman shaped ones lately worn. Black ones we see everywhere, of faille, cashmere da ITnde, and a kind of silk serge. They are nearly covered with trimming, which fcis generally lace pleated or beaded passementerie (the two, in fact, are often combined) with fringes of all kinds, also jetted and beaded. A new one, called Canaque, is a very full and fluffy one, resembling, very much, the fringes of feathers, which form the toilets of the savages. Some mantles, a degree warmer than the ones wo have mentioned, are made in light cloth of a drab color, trimmed with passementerie and fringe to match. Although the tendency is to increase the size of the bonnets, there arc still many very pretty small capotes worn. I have seen one, the shape of which was entirely covered with one large pink rose, over a foundation of tulle of the same color, with a cluster of buds on the left side. The strings were of tulle with fallen rose leaves embroidered upon them. A pretty new color is one called ble, a sort of warm yellow, being a combination of maize and gold, which mixed with white or ivory is used a great deal for bonnets and toques, SYSTEM, Every young housekeeper who sits down and seriously studies out the subject will find herself a different being if she manages her affairs with system, or if she lets them manage her without it. It ia true that before she is married, or while she is boarding, all her study on the subject will be theoretical, and possibly somewhat impractical, and something like the house one builds and is enchanted with it till coming to live ia it. For there are things that only experience can teach, and in matters where the experience of nobody else can be of any material service. If her mother was a woman of system, the young housekeeper already has much of what she wants bred in ,ier bone, as one may say. But if her mother was an invalid, and was shiftless and thriftless, was overwhelmed with troubles and babies, then the daughter has to strike out a path for herself. The sooner, then, that she remembers that there are but seven days in the week, and that that period of time constitutes one revolution of the household, washing day being the central sun, and baking day and sweeping day being, as it were, planetary affairs, but exerting tidal influences, the sooner she will come into her kingdom and reign undisturbed by her people. Custom, fortunately, fixes one day of the seven for washing day in this land, although in some lands across the sea that fearful epoch arrives, with a_ fifty times multiplied power, but once or twice a year, with an importation of white-capped women into the family to celebrate its rites through an unnamed period till it is all over. And washing day being fixed, of course ironing day is its moat immediate satellite. If, for the rest, the young housekeeper makes up her mind that one day shall never infringe upon the orbit of another, that baking day shall bo a fixed feast, and sweeping day an immovable feast, and that the silver aud the closets al all now and for ever bo cleaned upon their own day and no other, there will he a code established that will keep things straight as long ns she Jives and rules her house. Her work will

roll off her hands, if she does it itself with half the wear of body and soul that it usually takes ; and if she has servants, she may fall sick, she may go away, she may have a score of distractions or other occupations —the house will never show it; and whether, like the good woman of the Proverbs, strength and honour are her clothing or not, she will certainly “rejoice in time to come.”—“ Harper’s Bazaar.” TOO NEAR HIS FIGURE. On ono occasion, when General Butler was in command at New Orleans, a colonel up in tho Red River region made application for a furlough, which was refused him. Soon after, the colonel left his command without permission, and went to New Orleans, where he was arrested and put in irons as a deserter. Upon an intimation that ho wished to make an explanation. General B. had him brought to his headquarters, “Well, sir,” said tho general, sternly, “ what have you to say in explanation of your conduct.” “ Well, general, there aro two Jews up yonder who have some cotton they want to get through my lines. First they offered me SOOdols., which I refused. Then theyoffeiei lOOOdols,, then oOOOdols., and at last they offered 100,000dols ; and I tell you, general, they were getting so near my figure, I thought I’d better leave !” Editor’s Drawer, in Harper’s Magazine.”