THE THICKS OF TRADE.

Globe, Volume III, Issue 281, 6 May 1875, Page 2

THE THICKS OF TRADE.

M, Aurelien Scholl, of the Evenement, haa quarrelled, with his bread and butter. At all events he has taken to exposing the frauds of contemporary cookery, especially those committed by the aid of a new institution, the culinary painter. It is no longer, he says, necessary to broli a beef steak; this artist paints the marks of the gridiron on the meat, and then ignobly bakes it. If a customer complains that it is tasteless, there are the marks of the orthodox process scored on its surface. An omelet can be made with the whites of four eggs and a single yolk, since a little yellow ochre and a hot iron passed rapidly over the surface makes the insipid mass look most inviting. But the painter’s choicest receipt is, perhaps, that for old Roquefort cheese. Describing the process to M, Scholl, ho said, “ I gently dry a cheese on the oven I then paint green threads upon it, imitating the geographical uncertainty of nature,! and Victor animated the whole.” Victor turned out to be a lad entrusted with a collection of old bits of Dutch cheese kept in damp cupboard, from which preserve he obtained colonists wherewith |to people the Roquefort served to would-be connoisseurs. After this, splitting eggs into two parts, each apparently a whole ccufsur leplat, toning melons, and turning sparrows into ortolans by blowing grease under their skins, are amiable forms of objection.