WORK IN THE GARDEN

Evening Star, Issue 24328, 17 October 1942, Page 3

WORK IN THE GARDEN

LAWNS AND VERGES. No time should be lost in sowing new lawns and renovating existing lawns and verges. All coarse, grasses should bo removed before sowing new seed or there will be a lot of trouble to contend with at a later date. Sow the first-grade seed. Do not on any account sow cheap grass seed, which often contains a large percentage of weeds. A dressing of bonemeal after the work has been carried out on established lawns will he found beneficial at this stage. After the meal has been applied the whole of the surface should be gone over, using the back of the rake: then when dry finish olf with the light roller. THE FLOWER GARDEN. Continue to plant out all varieties of annuals, but before doing so make sure that the plants are well hardened off. This can he done by standing the boxes outside for some days before planting them out. A dressing of oyster grit (oceanic lime) worked iu before planting will assist .the young seedlings to form roots quickly, and will prevent various pests from attacking them. Chrysanthemums will require potting on into tin pots, after which the plants should be stood outside in a cold frame with the lights off. Those who require dwarf bushy plants for decorative purposes should take the tip out of the leaders at this stage. This also applies to the decorative singles and decorative doubles. Those growers who cannot get good leafmould, which is essential in the cultivation of chrysanthemums, should obtain a sack of cocoa husks (not cocoa shells), and after it has been exposed to the air it should be watered and then dug over a few times, when it will be an excellent substitute for leafmould. This material is for begonia cultivation. Dahlias should now be divided up into small pieces containing two eyes and be planted out. These pieces will be found large.enough for planting, and will give a belter display with much larger and liner flowers than if large clumps are planted. Dahlias are gross feeders, and a little wellrotted refuse—or, better still, cow manure if it is obtainable—will when placed at the bottom of the pits give good results. The spring bulbs have given a great display these past few weeks, and the king of the spring flowers, the tulip, is now beginning to open up with its glorious colouring, but I am afraid that many of the bulbs will only throw leaves, owing to the fact that the bulbs did not ripen off well last season owing to the unfavourable climatic conditions. At present large numbers are merely showing foliage, but if the weather is good next month we may look forward to having a great display next spring. Where the foliage is strong it would not he wise to apply any manure, but if there are signs of weak foliage make an application of potash (burnt wood ashes). . THE VEGETABLE GARDEN. Continue to sow all varieties of vegetables, and where the position is a warm one a sowing of fresh dwarf beans and french climbers can be made. Cucumbers, marrows, and pumpkins can also be sown in boxes or pots. As the plants mature they should be brought to the light. The bush marrows are far away ii\ advance to the runners, which are generally very shy bearers owing to our climatic conditions. Make sowings of Vanguard cabbage and cauliflower if obtainable, and the same applies to leeks. Sowings of all varieties of beetroot can now be carried out, but earlier sowings are really waste of time, as the plants generally run to seed in largo numbers. Celery should be sown, as this plant must have a long season of growth. Celery must have plenty of rich manure, as these plants are very gross feeders. THE ASPARAGUS BED. Keep all weeds pulled when they appear, and if the weather becomes dry an application of liquid manure should be given, making sure that the liquid reaches the roots. When cutting the asparagus grass care must bo taken always to cut just below the surface, never above. Sometimes about tin of stem is left This is not only waste, but such stem is deriving a great deal of the plant food required by the other grass. Cocoa husks should make a good mulch for asparagus beds. HOW TO TEST FOR LIME. To determina-the' approximate amount of lime in ’ soil about loz of soil should bo placed in about half a tumbler of water (soft water if possible). Then mix thoroughly together, after which add soz of hydrochloric acid (spirits of salts). If a strong effervescence takes place it certainly shows there is plenty of lime present. If, on the other hand, it shows little effervesence the soil will require lime. F.S.P.