MINIATURE TREES

Evening Star, Issue 23680, 13 September 1940, Page 11

MINIATURE TREES

NOT DIFFICULT TO CULTIVATE Tho dwarfed forest trees sold in shops make pleasing ornaments for windows, and givo invalids and those who have no gardens much pleasure in attending to their needs. Their rather high prices put them beyond the roach of many, but once tho secret of their training has been mastered anyone can grow tnem (says ‘ I’opular Gardening,’ Loudonj. Seedlings can bo lifted from woods and hedgerows or seeds may bo sown now, the plants grown on tor a year, then trained. The countryside will not be spoilt by uprooting the seedlings, if those are taken from positions where, in the natural course of events, they would die.

A heap of oak leaves, stacked to rot down for leaf-mould will possibly contain hundreds of such seedlings. Suitable trees for training include maple, ouk, thorn, silver birch, and fir. Those who are unable to obtain the tiny saplings can purchase the required number from most nurserymen. Each seedling should be placed in a 3in pot of good, porous compost and allowed to grow naturally for one season. This will ensure that tho pot is well filled with rots. At the end of the first year it will be necessary to decide how many branches the miniature tree shall carry, and to cut off all others close to tho stem. . The selected branches will form tho future foundation of the tree and must be trained in the way they are to grow by tying them to small stakes thrust in the soil in the pot. The stem may be distorted in the same manner if tied in position while leafless. The main branches should then be pruned back to one or two buds only. If excessive growth is made in the second season the branches must be cut back again. After three years the shape of the tree will have been formed and the branches set in position. It may then bo transplanted in a larger pot. Any roots that come through the drainage hole should be removed. Subsequent treatment consists in keeping growth in check by pruning aud in feeding, although this should not be overdone, as the object of potting is to keep growth dwarf. In spring a little of the top soil ought to be scraped away and replaced with fresh. Very dilute liquid manure may be given when leaves form. Good drainage is essential, and the pots should be well crocked. When the tree has attained the desired shape and size it may be planted iu a shallow glazed bowl if sufficient drainage material is provided. These dwarfed trees will do well in a cool room; but are best kept in a cold frame or put out of doors during winter, the receptacles being sunk iu peat or ashes to protect the roots against frost. If they are brought in a warm room during March they will break into leaf long before trees growing naturally out of doors. FCT-GROWN BULBS

A few notes on the subject may assist those interested in discovering the causes which lead to disappointment and failure in pot-grown bulbs (says the Auckland ‘ Herald’s ’ gardening contributor!. Badly-shaped and twisted leaves are often due to greenfly. Tulips are especially subject to attacks by tins pest, and dryness is usually responsible for infestation. Hyacinth bulbs sometimes fail to start into growth, or in some cases grow only a few inches high. It will be found that the base and roots have decayed, while the remainder of each bulb may be sound. Unsatisfactory drainage or overwatering is responsible. Occasionally good blooms are produced, but the bottoms of tho stems become soft, brown and slimy, and later the flowers fall over. The stems can be lifted out of the bulbs, leaving cavities surrounded by a brownish rot, but the bases of the leaves and bulbs are sound. In extreme cases the rot spreads downwards and is apparent in the centres of the bases of the bulbs. The trouble usually arises from one of two causes—the bulbs were placed too low in the soil, with the result that water has penetrated the growing points and started the rot, or they have received too much water overhead. Reduce overhead moisture and keep the tips of the hyacinth bulb well above tho soil when potting. Another common fault is that the bud opens when only about halfway out of the bulb and does not appear to advance, although no decay is apparent. This may be caused by an incorrect temperature, root dryness, or overwatering. Unequal development of the flowers may be caused by a continued draught, or by allowing the soil to become too dry after the flowers show colour. A waterlogged soil caused by bad drainage or overwatering is fatal to tulips. The bulbs will make no root or stem growth in such circumstances; even if a little growth is made it will be stunted and twisted. A common failure with daffodils is caused by shortage of water when the stem _ is well advanced, and another is excessive watering, indicated by yellow leaf tips. BEAUTIFUL CLEMATIS The clematis is a beautiful flowering plant with which to cover a pillar, arch, or pergola. It grows best in a sunny position, but the roots and lower part of the stem should be in the shade. The base of a low south wall is an ideal situation, where tho top half of the plant would get plenty of sunshine and the lower part would be shaded (says the Auckland ‘ Herald’s ’ gardening contributor).

Rich soil is needed. First remove the top spit and place it on one side of tho hole, then remove tho second spit, keeping it on the other side of tho hole. Dig in plenty of well-rotted manure and mix it well with the soil in the bottom of the bole, which should be at least four feet in diameter. Replace the soil from the second spit and mix in a further supply of manure. Replace tho top soil and, if it lacks humus, add a little leafmould. If the soil is heavy, sand, road sweepings, grit, or well-decayed vegetation can be added. Do not plant the clematis until the soil has settled.

When the plant is received, remove it from the pot. It may be necessary to break the pot to avoid damaging the roots. Immerse the roots in water for two or three hours until the old soil is washed out, then disentangle the roots carefully. When taking the plant to its permanent position, do not carry it by its stem or the root system may snap off at the junction. (Remove sufficient soil from the prepared position to allow of the roots being spread out. Replace the soil and tread firmly. If the clematis is to grow up the side of a house, do not plant it too close

to tho wall, because the soil will dry out quickly. Make the bole for planting a short distance from the wall, and dig a shallow trench from the hole to tho wall. After planting, lay the stem along tho trench and cover with soil. 'Roots will grow from the submerged stem and create what is known as a layer root system, with beneficial results to the’plant. DELPHINIUMS Better results from delphiniums may bo obtained by severe shoot limitation. There will bo fewer spikes, of course, but an amazing improvement in their size and length will be the reward. The colour also improves, tho “ pips ” open together, and the spikes have a vigour which prevents their sagging in the strongest sunshine or before the wind (says the ‘ Dominion’s ’ gardening contributor). Shoot reduction should be done now, when the young growths are about Sin long. Remove all but the most vigorous. As a result almost perfect blooms should be obtained. With some weak-growing kinds a more natural effect can be obtained by reducing to three shoots. A knowledge of the habits of your varieties is necessary. Cut off the unwanted shoots where they grow out at the top of the fleshy, tap root. Scrape away the soil with finger or trowel tip till you reach each shoot’s point of origin. Cut off flush with the root, using a sharp knife. Only a clean cut will prevent the shoot branching and complicating the issue. Rub the exposed surfaces of tho wounds with freshly-slaked lime to prevent the sap flowing out of the wounds and exhausting the roots. If one is desirous of propagating a choice specimen it is a good, safe method to take cuttings of delphiniums now. When the shoots are Sin tall remove soil from about the crown and expose the base of tho shoots, separate the shoot from the crown by means of a sharp knife, being careful to remove some of the crown with the shoot. Sprinkle the cut end with sulphur and stick it in moist sand in a cool and shady place. If this is followed out other protection is not necessary. Some strains of delphinium propagate very easily by this method, but others not so well. The cuttings will root in about six to eight weeks, when they may be transplanted to their permanent positions. COG'S TOOTH VIOLETS SHOULD BE CULTIVATED MORE WIDELY The erythroniums, or dog’s tooth violets, which arc generally only cultivated by those with rock gardens, or the connoisseur, in this country, are well deserving of greater popularity for general garden purposes (says the 1 Dominion’s ’ gardening contributor). The European varieties are more usually cultivated, but these are the larger ones, and have not the miniature perfection of some of the American varieties which come from the Pacific Coast. Once these dainty flowers become established and are left to themselves they seed and multiply fairly freely. The type is white, and there are some very dainty and lovely hybrids, such as E. dens-canis Frans Hals, with yio-iet-red flowers, and the lovely pink Hose Queen. One of the finest whites is E dens-canis album major.

Erythroniums from the Western Hemisphere arc divided into the nlpines and the sub-alpines, the conoolorae, which have unmottled foliage and white or creamy-yellow flowers, coming from the mountain areas, and the ipardalinae, with mottled leaves and white, pink, or lavender flowers, coming from the lowlands.

It was once considered necessary to plant the dog’s tooth violets in shade or semi-shade, but this is not wise, as it often prevents flowering. The idea may have arisen from the fact that the flowers arc delicate and must be sheltered from the wind. The blooms also last longer when they are grown in the sunlight and open, or in slight shade. A well-drained soil is essential in their cultivation, and they resent, like their relations, the liliums, a waterlogged soil. The mountain varieties, or roncolorae, are difficult to grow, and the average gardener might well keep to the mottled-leaved varieties if he wishes to avoid disappointment. Some of the loveliest colours are, however, to be i'ovind in the group which is easiest of culture.

The erythroniums will be in flower shortly, and gardeners who do not possess any would do well to watch for them. Onfe of the most satisfactory ways of establishing them in the garden is to grow them from seed. In culture it is well to treat them as lilies, for their requirements are the same, and the bulbs require the same handling and resent exposure to the air for any length of time. They benefit from an annual top-dressing of good garden soil.