EFFECTS OF RAYON

Evening Star, Issue 22442, 12 September 1936, Page 19

EFFECTS OF RAYON

NATIVE PEOPLES AFFECTED In view of the trade deadlock reacted between Australia and Japan on the tariff barriers erected against certain classes of Japanese imports into the Commonwealth, it is interesting to note that Japan has already captured a large proportion of the world’s markets in the rayon or artificial silk trade. The world-wide expansion in the popularity of rayon and mixtur® fabrics has had a great influence upon the lives of peoples- of virtually every race and creed. “ The old “ order changeth ” is a well-worn phrase, but it is apt when applied to the spread of Westernised ideas in clothes, and rayon has Contributed much to that spread. . In talking to Manchester’s merchantmen one is perhaps inclined, to deplore the way in which European Westernised styles havo taken away mnch of the art and character from the world export markets. Few now are the markets in which custom and tradition' is the main influence in creating the demand for textiles (says a Writer in an exchange). The designs and colourings which are seen in London or Paris to-day will find their way to the native peoples of ■ other climes and other continents, who at one time had their own fixed ideas on wearing apparel. Look how you will among the samples of rayon goods in the big export houses, you will find scarcely any of _ those gaudy brilliant ' colourings which a few years ago were to be found in enormous quantities. In their place are colours and designs which would look perfectly natural when worn by our own womenfolk. True, they are frequently in low quantities to suit the low standard of living of _ native nles, but they are direct imititations esign, colour, and weave of the familiar Manchester home trade dress materials. ■ . _ : The change is hot, of course, complete, and has been very gradual when taken over a period of 10 or 15 years, but it is the outstanding feature of the trade to-day, and rayon has been a major influence. One Manchester shipper told the writer that he was now applying neat pastel shades to various markets which formerly took the most vivid and gaudy colours. “ The natives first began to appreciate the pastel shades in rayon because rayon is beautiful in whatever colour it is dyed, and since then they > have gradually gone on ,to the lighter shades in cotton goods.” ' The export markets for rayon, piece goods are, of course, strictly limited, in the one hand there are the high tariffs in which rayon is classified at several times the rate of cotton goods* and on the other there are the markets in which the board has' been swept by cheap Japanese productions. Japan has captured the whole of the Eastern markets for rayon goods and has created many new. markets for all-rayon, which ‘ formerly were able to afford only mixture goods containing a small percentage of rayon. MANCHESTER FALLS BEHIND. Manchester merchants s while still doing a considerable business in cotton goods for the Eastern markets* have fallen , badly behind, in, rayons. They do, not seem prepared to talk about the native styles and peculiarities of the demand for rayons in the Dutch East Indies* for r. the simple reason that Japan has captured the trade of this market. In. the Straits, where a limit is "set to Japanese goods by means of the quota, there is a strong tendency towards .Western styles, ana one or. two ; Manchester houses are- now selling dtelustered rayons in Singapore.- ' Rayon-bordered dhooties. for various parts : of India'were at one time quite an important line for Lancashire, and there is still a small demand for dhooties of this type, in which the design and style is -essentially native. It is, however, a quality trade, and the hartdloom industry of Madras seem* tb have captured the major portion of it.,' To-day Manchester. houses are setting ' out to imitate the handfoom' designs . with the power loom in - these fancy dhooties, •which have' been greatly improved since the advent, .of rayon. Rayon - fancies for India -are' also essentially Indian in' ■ but competition from the'local,mills and from Japan makes this trade • a very small and : specialised one. •Nearer England a . most interesting influence ■ has .been created by- rayon in' such markets as Egypt,, Palestine, and Morocco; ' Tradition indicated white goods,, and. it , was only . the beauty and fascination of . coloured rayon stripes that broke down this tradition. The future of the Egyptian market is somewhat in the'.balance; Lancashire, as' the most important consumer of Egyptian cotton, may look for more favourable treatment, but the general tendency will be for , more European styles and fewer of the. old native designs and bright bars of vivid colour.

South Africa,. with its large Westernised population, is steadily, taking more interest in home trade styles,’ even ' ataong the native ' population. Crude designs and vivid, colours no longer- hold! sway._ Very simple geometries .were first introduced, and then they, gradually developed into spots* and then into florals. In rayons for the .native population-it is home trade styles that are required.