SEASONABLE WORK
THE VEGETABLE GARDEN In n very short time work will be ' cotniiijx on with n rush in sowing seeds of various kinds and planting: consequently digging, trenching, and manuring should be brought to a conclusion as speedily as possible. Clear away spent crops of all kinds, including- cabbage stumps. Ground that has been well worked up should have a dressing of lime unless it has boon limed within the last year or two. It should not be given too often or die overdone. We must not forget that there is no actual plant food in lime, but that it is of great assistance in the assimilating of plant food and sweetening the soil. Ground that is to be cropped with root crops, such as carrots, parsnips, beetroot, and others should not have a lot of fresh or loose manure or garden rubbish dug in or they will come very rooty or malformed. Cut down dead tops of Jerusalem artichokes, and dig the tubers as required. as they do not keep well like potatoes. Lift and. pit carrots, parsnips, and beet. It is not necessary to make the pit deep—in fact, they arc better stacked crowns out and near the surface. with a slight covering of straw and soil to finish off, with a little hole made so they may bo taken out as required. Where or when the conditions of the soil admit it will greatly benefit, crops to keep the surface soil well stirred, and at the same time keep down weeds. THE FLOWER GARDEN Gladiola should be lifted and put under cover. When they .are quite ripe ’and dry rub off all dead leaves or scaly skins, including the old dead dirt at the base of each bulb. Bulblets may be kept in paper bags for sowing in spring. Keep all bulbs dry in bags or boxes. Lift dahlias and store the roots away in some dry place to rest until growth starts again in spring, at which time they may bo propagated or planted as desired. Stir the surface soil among tulips, ranunculus, and other springflowering bulbs and plants. Clean and dig up beds and borders, and finish planting all varieties of spring-flower- . ing bulbs.. , Plant roses as the weather permits, and wl)en beds for this purpose are still to' he prepared get it off hand as speedilv as possible. Continue the planting of evergreens and other flowering or ornamental shrubs. Those in exposed situations should be made seeuroaganst wind until they-get,a grip of the ground and able to support themselves. Any alteration that it is contemplated doing should be got on with before the busy time arrives. Collect and store fallen' leaves. -Dig and manure- flower beds|and borders; so that they may get the full benefit of winter frosts. Continue to prune and train climbing roses and other climbers requiring attention. Clematis plants that are breaking into young buds or growth should have all the old last season’s flower shoots cut away—that is, down to where the young wood buds are visible or bursting into growth. Sometimes where old plants become weak and are not nourishing it is a good practice to head them right back for the purpose of making a young or new set of growth. When such is necessary it is well to examine their roots, or at least the soil about them, and topdress with new soil and manure. Beds and borders that are to remain fallow, until spring planting should be deeply dug and manured and the surface left as rough as possible for frosts to operate upon. Plant polyanthus, primroses, pansies, violas, wallflowers, and hardy flowering plants. , Clip hawthorn and other hedges except during severe frosts. Bake up all leaves and other rubbish from lawns and give them a final mowing, rolling, and general clearing up for the season. THE FRUIT GARDEN
Continue to plant fruit trees of all kinds as the ground becomes workable. but avoid planting when the ground is sticky and wet, as it is impossible to plant a tree as it should bo when in 'such a condition. Carry on.the work of pruning when the weather is favourable. When this is complete rake up all clippings and have a good fire. The ashes of such a fire are very beneficial to all fruit ‘gardens or other gardens. When all is cleared up and burnt winter spraying 'may be got on with. , This subject 1 . may bo 'touching upon next week. Continue to prune and nail up wall fruit trees as previously advised. THE VIHERY
Pruning Vines.-Vi'lic best time to prune vines is as soon after the leaves have fallen as possible. It is a great mistake to leave this work until the approach of spring, as there is always a clanger of vines bleeding when pruned late, for the reason that it does not give the cut sufficient time to heal up before the sap begins to flow in early spring. The wood of a vine is like a piece of cane, full of small holes running right through the wood, and it is surprising the amount of sap that flows 'through a single shoot. Thus it may he imagined what a waste of energy takes place when bleeding sets in. in pruning a vine the best way to go about it is to cut the strings and let the vine down to the ground. It is then more easily got at and enables one to cut the wood off in the proper wav. Resides the pruning the vines should have a good overhaul by way of scraping or clearing of loose bark, but this must not be carried to excess. All that is required is to remove the loose bark which, if not. removed, becomes a harbour for insect pests of various kinds, especially that of mealoy bug If this gets a hold it is a job to get rid of it. Remove, all loose bark, especially that around each spur or side arm, but this is not to be done until pruning is complete. In pruning the vine cut back to the first plump eye near the base of the shoot, and always with a sloping cut with the grain and never against it. If this happened the cut would be a ragged one, and if seen through a magnifying glass would appear quite rough. It would not heal up properly, and very likely would cause bleeding. It sometimes happens, that the first eye near the base is on tbc under side or pointing inward in the wrong direction. In that case, take the next best placed eye above. Long pruning of the vine iiiii-d he always avoided, as if continued for a few seasons the spurs or side arms would become so long that
there would not bo room for the expansion of growth. ANSWERS “ Bngite.”—(l) The situation yon refer to near a warm, sunny brick wall should bo ideal for geraniums. To grow rank and tall as described shows that something is wrong. Fairly good soil, no manure, and made fairly linn, near a Minin’ wall, are conditions that suit geraniums. Moist and rich soil tends to make them grow to top at the expense of Mowers. King of the Beds or Paul Cramplc are both excellent red varieties. (-’) Von have a neglected section adjoining a fence between, hut cannot prevent grass coming through. A strong dose of common salt or weed killer just close, along the fence should answer: ' (3 ) Kerr’s Pink is a good pink potato, ft is a good cooker and cropper. “ Rosl.vn.”—-You say your ground has been dug lift to 2ft. with wood ashes put in and occasionally limed, and it is still heavy and stiff. Lime should not be applied every year. About 2oz per square yard or a good big handful should be sufficient for two or three years. Your ground should be dug up in autumn if possible. Do not work it when wet or sticky. Too much wood ashes would cause your potatoes to go scabby. All the ground you crop should have lime, and for your ground dig it in fresh. T think, from what you say, that it would be advisable to use artificial manure or fresh stable or horse .manure, Cheswiek Beauty ear-: rot is an oarlv one, and should be used before the late or intermediate kinds. Do not lift and put your carrots in boxes, but pit or stack them, eyes or crown out, with very little earth dusted between the layers, and cover them. The sample forwarded is a verypoor one. ft is badly shrivelled or dried. Pitting would keep them fresh. Whinam’s Industry or Crown Bob are two good rod gooseberries. Lea s Prolific Sweet or Boseop Giant large black currants.' Either should suit you. In apples Alfriston for a cooker and Cox’s Grange for dessert. Dig up and pit your parsnips as with the carrots.
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Evening Star, Issue 21748, 16 June 1934, Page 25
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1,491SEASONABLE WORK Evening Star, Issue 21748, 16 June 1934, Page 25
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