SEASONABLE WORK

Evening Star, Issue 21742, 9 June 1934, Page 25

SEASONABLE WORK

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN ' The most important work in this department just now is the clearing away of all spent crops, trenching, digging, and manuring in readiness for the planting and sowings of seed, for in a few. weeks’ time work will be combing on in a rush. Lift and pit root crops of various kinds such as carrots, parsnips, and beet. By doing this not only will such crops become handy and easily got at when required, but the ground may be worked up and manured. All . such work- should be off hand before the busy time starts. Those who have the convenience of a frame or glass house would do well to sow a box with Ailsa Craig or some of the giant form of onion seed for transplanting in early spring, providing tlie seed was not sown in autumn as previously advised. Plant horse radish. A good plan to adopt when planting is to make holes with a crowbar or pointed stake and drop pieces or a single crown into the hole. They will work up and produce nice straight 'roots, which are much to be desired in horse radish. THE FLOWER GARDEN Fallen leaves will be a source of annoyance, and no opportunity should be lost in getting them raked up and stored away to rot for future use, as leaf mould is a valuable article both for pot work and general garden purposes. Continue the pruning or cutting out of dead wood and overhanging branches of deciduous and other trees. All such work should be got off hand before the busy time starts. There is no better way of disposing of such material than that of burning. Make a fire, end when it has a good hold bank it up well to make it into what is termed a “ smother,” and not burnt to a white ash. Black, charred material is most valuable for flowers or vegetables. Cut down and clear, away dead stems of herbaceous plants and others that died off after flowering. Clear off dead annuals and dig and manure flower beds and borders. Continue to plant trees and shrubs when weather and ground conditions ar efavourabie, making tall growing plants secure against strong winds. Beds or borders dug up now should be left quite rough and lumpy for the frosts to operate upon. Plant pansies’, polyanthus, primroses, violas, and wallflowers when the ground is workable if this has , not already been done. Plant roses as previously advised.' Prune and train climbing or rambler roses, also other climbing roses that require attention. Clip hedges of hawthorn and other ‘hardy kinds, but it is best not to clip olearia or other soft wood hedges when the wood is frozen. ■ Give lawns a final mowing and- a ’ general clean up for the season, and where daisies are troublesome top dress or dust them over with sulphate of ammonia. This will destroy the daisies and bring the grass away strongly in spring. The tops of the grass will have a sickly appearance for a time, but it will come away cjuite well when growth starts in spring. THE FRUIT GARDEN Continue to plant fruit trees of all kinds when the ground is favourable. Pruning may he carried on as previously advised. 1 will now touch upon the pruning of apricots' and peaches. Apricots.—Apricots fruit on the old wood and the peach on the new, consequently the pruning must differ. The mature wood of the apricot is stiff and brittle, consequently it is best on a short, low-set stem, particularly where it is grown on walls, for which it is quite well suited, especially in this district. In drier and warmer districts apricots are better grown as standards. In either case, as with other fruit trees, the first year after planting pruning should be somewhat severe to enable a good foundation or framework of the tree to be formed. The finest fruit is produced on the strong growth of the second season; therefore a good supply of the wood should be maintained on all parts of the tree. When apricot trees have grown into full fruiting condition they should be left alone and the less pruning they get the better, except the removal of old or dead wood. Bruised or chafed shoots should he cut away to make room for the new. In the case of trees growing or trained on walls regular pruning and training in wood must be carried out. The form a tree should he trained should be as nearly in the shape of a fan as possible. Start with the lower branches at the base, and train slightly upward, giving them about Gin apart or more as they grow outward. Prune each of these main arms back to about 12in at each yearly priming, or even a little more if the growth is very strong •and vigorous, hut loss if weak. After training is complete cut out or prune back to one or two eyes all side shoots or breastwood. The Peach.—Peaches, to do well'in this district, should be trained or grown on walls. How often have 1 seen such valuable spaces going to waste when with very small expense and a little care and energy such wall space could be turned into a delightful ami profitable use. Brick walls are preferable, with a sunny aspect. The border need not necessarily be very broad. It should be trenched or deeply dug, ami made rich and open. Where the ground is heavy make it open and light by mixing in sand or old mortar rubbish. Guard against had drainage or water at the roots. As stated, the first pruning must be fairly hard to cause strong growth to form the base. The principle to work upon is to train the tree as near to the shape of a fan as possible. The first shoot should be brought down to almost a horizontal position. Wrap a shred or narrow piece of cloth about Tin wide and 2in long around the shoot, and nail it to the wall, not too tightly, to allow for expansion of growth. Prune these back rather severely. The next shoot should be brought down to about Gin from the first, and so on to completion. Cut breastwood away to give that left more light and air; ANSWERS “ Mrs W.B.”—You ask if you could cut hack your large flowering violet clematis.—Y T es. As soon as you see the "reen plump buds showing upon the long trailer branches cut off all trailer tops above these buds or shoots. This should be done each year to keep them in good (lowering condition. If they become too large you may reduce them by cutting old wood well back, but

leave as much of the last season's trailers as possible, but not overcrowded. “ G.M.”—Bon Chretien pears is an early variety. Kithcr Winter Nclis or Winter Colo will answer very well for a late winter pear. They arc both reliable and good croppers. Dig up the clay subsoil well. It will make al the difference later on, especially in your locality. “ W.L.”-—The few leaves loft on your trees now will not make much difference with regard to pruning them ; hut there is no hurry in pruning, unless you wish to have the work off hand. If not, wait until the leaves arc all off. H.C.