SEASONABLE WORK

Evening Star, Issue 20137, 30 March 1929, Page 22

SEASONABLE WORK

\ ROTATION Of CROPS Before proceeding with tin's subject I I should like to correct two errors in last week's notes on the autumn treat- • input of raspberries. My notes read: " When the canes are vigorous and strong Gin will be sufficient to leave, and in no case . should they exceed j.oin." T» each instance they should have lead: " Six canes and ten canes." The subject of the rotation of crops is not, taken as seriously as it should i be. J." am quite sure, if a record of '■ the crops was kept from each plot annually and a change of crop_ given each year, very much more satisfactory results would bo obtained than if this plan was not observed. No two kinds of vegetables fake the. same plant- food. Jl' a cabbage is burnt and the ashes bo submitted to analysis, they will be found to contain about 8 per cent, of sulphuric acid, 16 per cent, of phosphoric, acid, 4-per cent, of soda, 48 per tent, of potash, and 15 per cent. lime. It is quite evident that we cannot expect to grow a cabbage upon ground that is devoid of these ingredients, to say nothing of others. _H we submit a potato tuber to a similar process this result will be found in the ashes: 59 per cent, of potash, 2 per cent, ofsoda, 6 per cent, of sulphuric acid, 10 per cent, of phosphoric, acid, and 2 per cent, of lime. These two vegetables differ very materially in plant food requirements, and they are perhaps two of the most exhausting plants for the ground we have. Other kinds of vegetables have an even wider diversity of plant food. Thus, hy the systematic practice of changing of crops it is quite possible to continue to reap bountiful crops. On the other hand, if one grows one kind of crop on the same-ground year after year, failure must follow, no matter how one manures. This is a good time of the year to think out a [dan for the next rotation. Let me impress on my readers to take every opportunity to dig, trench, manure, and lime every foot of available ground early whilst it is warm and dry. It will then derive full benefit from the winter rains and frosts. and be in line condition for spring sowing and planting. On the other hand, if digging and trenching are left until the last minute before cropping it will be impossible to get the same results. .For the proper rotation of crops it would be useless to sow turnips after cabbages, as cabbages, cauliflowers, turnips, and winter greens of all kinds belong to the .Brassica family. These should all be grown on the one plot; peas, beans, lettuces, radishes and such like upon another. Then root crops, such as carrots, parsnips, boot. celery, etc. These root crops send their roots down to a stratum which surface rooting plants such as cabbages cannot reach. A good rotation then will place tap roots' in a course between ; surface roots. I However small a garden may be, ' divide it into four parts--ono part to be planted witJi permanent crops such • •as rhubarb, asparagus, herbs, and sea • kale; the other three to he used in I ! rotation such as the following;—No. 1: ! Plant with potatoes, celery, leeks, car- | rots, parsnips, beet, etc. No. 2: Peas, j beans, onions, summer spinach, etc. j No. 3: Brassica s including cabbages, cauliflower, broccoli, Brussels sprouts, I kale, savoys, turnips, _ etc. In the following year the original No. 1 should be planted or cropped as No. 2, and No. 2. as No. .'3. h\ the third i year a corresponding change should bo j made, constituting a three-course system. Therefore it would be three years before the Brassicas would be back upon the same plot, and the ground would have time to recuperate. The cultivator must use discretion in | cropping vacant ground, and also for | sowing or planting small and follow-on crops such as peas, lettuces, radishes, mustard and cress. Onions are some- | what of an exception to the rule of i cropping, because once you have a j plot of ground that suits them you' may stick to it, for under good cultivation they will grow for years, ;i nd give lino crops, IMMEDIATE WORK P.lant cabbages and cauliflowers. Sow prickly or winter spinach. Sow also silver beet. I Lift and store potatoes as soon as the tops are nearly ripe. Do this when , the ground is fairly dry. Earth up j celery. A late sowing of peas may still be made. i THE FLOWER GARDEN j After the great soaking experienced last week it will be advisable to keep j oIF the ground for a time to give the i soil time to dry before attempting surface garden work on beds and borders, , or there will be danger of it settling! down and becoming hard and unwork-j able, particularly where ground is inclined to bo of a heavy nature, 'lake advantage of such con.litmus to lilt daisies, dandelions, and other f-'icli weeds from the lawns, after wirth give the surface a r.cavy lolung. A eood deal may be dene to ger, lawns into j good condition. Clip olearia and clbor hedges. Have a general t\h;.ng up until the ground becomes in a fit state to work. s New lawns may be sown down as ..lm surface, becomes in a workab'o ;\.nditi.fi. Propagate cuttings of vario'i.; p'ai.ts and shrubs. Plant pausies, primroses, ro.yantl.as wallflowers, and suchlike in small beds where they can be got at without tread- ' ing the ground. • THE VINERY Give abundance of ventilation to the vinery from now on. Keep the top vent 'open day and night and during all weathers for the winter. One great secret in grap2 growing is to have the wood thoroughly ripe and hard. Holt, unripo wood" will never produce lirstelass grapes. There will be a danger of late grapes, such as Gros Column, cracking and damping after the late ; excessive rains. Where this occurs clip out with the scissors all cracked berries j before they damp and alfeet the rest < of the bunch. J AHSWERS " C.A.D." asks can he sow the seed | of sweet peas now in the open ground. '' —Yes. Now is a good time to uiakc an : autumn sowing of sweet peas—in fact, ' I. prefer an autumn sowing to one in ' spring; but both seasons would be bet- ; ter, as this plan gives a longer season : of cutting or flowering. ".Maori Hill."—You ask if it would •be practical for you to shift a ten-year- . old olearia hedge about 50yds.—It could Ibe done, hut care will require to be < taken to shift them in blocks or balled, I or there will be a great chance of losing

■:,'■' ■ n •■■■ ■ i .a them. Open a trench on both sides of the hedge. Then cut them out in blocks itiul rope split sacks or strong canvas about them to hold the soil and roots together. Have the new trench open in readiness to receive them previous to lifting- Tread or ram the soil quite firmly about thein, and alter planting is complete give them_ a soaking of water to settle the soil about the roots. Shift the bushes at the end of April or wait until spring, after the heavy, frosts are past. Do not trim the hedge much, if at all, before .shifting. .It would be better to defer trimming until spring, as the bushes will ; make root better with the leaves initact. ''ilo.se."—lf you wish to plant roses early in May you cannot do better than prepare the bed now, so as to give it time to settle thoroughly before planting time. I. have the varieties you mention. I. will touch nioro fully on olantnig, etc., later. lI.C.