THE GARDEN

Evening Star, Issue 20061, 29 December 1928, Page 12

THE GARDEN

WOiEK VFO3t THE WEEIL

Onr -ccmttiboioc, a- well-known gardener, uriE bo glad to answer questions, which must , be received not later than Tuesday of each week. Adyertisomflntexfoc -this.-coianm iniist be handed in to iia office before 2 pan. on Friday.

liant show in tho slimmer, and I have known them to survive several years and pass through rather severe winters. After preparing the cuttings, put them in a warm, runny, and sheltered spot to root, using some sharp, clean sand to mix with the soil. Give no manure. After they have rooted, plant them out, but it would be safest to leave them until frost is past in the spring before removing _ them, unless put mulct' glass. H.C. '

should bo creamy-white in colour. Complete darkness is essential to prevent the growths becoming green, when the 'delicate ilavour will bo lost. Small batches introduced frequently are better than larger ones, the produce being fresher and the risk of waste lessened. After tliis treatment the roots arc of no further use, and should be discarded. I Endive is another scrvicablo plant for winter use, and seeds may bo sown during June and July; an excellent place for the earlier batches is on the ridges between, the rows of celery. Sow the seeds fairly thickly and thin the .seedlings to lit apart. Dust soot around tho plants andj keep tho soil stirred well. During hot weather water the endive at tho same time as the celery in tho trenches is being watered, during the late afternoon for preference. Tiie curled forms are very attractive, and the earliest varieties may bo blanched where they are growing by placing Gin pots over them. The later batches should be Jilted and planted in cold frames, or treated as advised for chicory. When being blanched endive requires an abundance of air, for the plants are liable to damp off. The broad-leaved Batavian variety is valuable for general use, as on good soil it makes plenty of foliage; if this is gathered’ together and tied with raffia it should blanch well in the open ground. Later supplies should be protected from excessive wet and cold. I’laucs may bo lifted with good balls of soil, planted m frames, and covered with mats during severe weather. Endive, after blanching, should bo of a creamy colour; if green it is apt to taste somewhat bitter. Where frames are available seeds may be sown in them to save both time and labour. Lettuce seeds may be sown at frequent intervals from June (December) onwards in the open ground, and the seedlings thinned according to the habit of the variety. Sowings made in frames during late July and August (January and February) should provide plenty of material for use during autumn and early winter, and the plants should be afforded so much air as is consistent with free and healthy growth; tho quickly maturing varieties, both cos and cabbage sorts, should be selected for these sowings. Encourage free growth by thinning the seedlings early, stir the surface soil frequently, and remove all faded leaves. Tomatoes to? use during the later months of the year need encouragement to ripen their fruits by the use of lire heat; at the same time they require ample supplies of fresh air. The foliage of robust varieties should be thinned to allow tho sun to reach tho fruits, which should be gathered directly they are ripe and placed in a storeroom, where they keep perfectly well for a considerable time if placed carefully on clean wood-wool. iladisbes are a piquant addition to the salad bowl, and these may bo sown at frequent intervals during tho autumn in any vacant frames. Sow them in fairly rich soil, broadcast but thinly; cover them slightly with lino soil, and keep them watered well. Late in tho season these should not require much air, and tho frames may bo closed early in the afternoon, for the quicker they are grown the better will bo the results. Varieties that are sown early in the year for forcing on hotbeds are suitable for these autumn sowings, for they mature quickly ami make only a small amount of top growth. Late hutches of cucumbers growing in houses require plenty of heat and moisture to bring them to perfection during late autumn, and tho fruits should bo cut so soon as they arc ready. The plants should bo fed well and topdressed with rich soil, and the growths should be thinned and kept tied in. The fruits remain fresh for several days if kept in a cool place with the stalks placed in fresh water every day. Mustard and cress,are also valuable salad ingredients, and weekly sowings made in boxes of loamy soil and placed in a warm house should provide useful material. Do not cover the seeds with soil; merely press them in firmly and water them in with a fine-rosed can, after which cover the boxes witli paper until the seeds have germinated. The seedlings should be ready for use in about a week, and should he removed to a cooler place for cutting.

SEASONABLE WORK

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN Keep the surface soil occupied by crops well stirred and loose. Destroy weeds on their first appearance. By so doing a great deal of labour will be saved later on. Celery must be watched and kept moist, or there will be trouble. If there is one thing celery cannot endure it is dryness at the roots. Where such occurs, the plants are almost sure, to bolt to seed. Recently planted cabbage or others of the brassica family must be attended to by way of watering until they become well established. Asparagus: Discontinue cutting, after which remove all weeds and topdress the beds with manure water or a dusting of salt. This will stimulate growth to buijd up strong crowns for next season. Pinch out the points or heads of broad beans to increase the size and weight of the crops. This should bo done when a fairly good crop has already been cut. Thin out beetroot and other crops before they become over crowded. Sow French beans succession, and dwarf marrowfat peas. It is generally unwise to sow peas after this date, for the reason that they would most likely be damaged by frost before the crop matured. Of course, iu mild situations such as the Peninsula they may bo sown later. Carrots may still be sown for drawing young. Hoc and thin the more forward crops. Onions should be sown for 'the same purpose. Continue sowing and transplanting lettuce. Sow also radish, mustard and cress for saladings. THE FRUIT GARDEN Attention must be paid to the slimmer pruning of wall trees, or trouble will follow by rank growth where it is least required, and tho fruit will suffer iu consequence. Blank spaces should be Idled in previous to the removal of surplus growth. Attend to trees grafted in tho spring, and where the grafts arc growing freely' remove clay or wax bandages. In i some cases where tho growth is weak or defective they should be, re-lied. Regulate the growth of standard} trees such as apples, pears, and plums, which were planted last year. Where, perhaps, one strong or rank shoot is growing away in excess of the 1 remainder of tho shoots pinch out tho j points of such to direct tho sap into other channels. THE FLOWER GARDEN Lawns should be kept regularly mown, and if possible rolled. Roiling is very important whore good lawns are desired. Rolling is best done just after a good heavy rain. It is not much use rolling when tho ground is hot and dry. Plants in borders (hat require supports should ho staked and tied up. Cladiolas are very likely to bo damaged by winds, therefore they should be tied up singly. Take up bulbs that have to bo lifted as soon after the leaves have died down as possible—narcissi in particular, for it is surprising how soon after the tops have ripened off they start making new roots, especially after heavy rains. If they are taken up in good timo they cornu up easily and free from roots. If they are left too long they make new roots, and the bulb is weakened. Those who grow narcissus in pots under glass for winter cutting cannot do bettor than lift early. Annuals and other plants may still ho planted, but care should he taken to keep them well watered until they become sufficiently established to look after themselves. Wallflowers may still be sown. Thin out those sown early. Sow aquilegias for next season’s [ flowering. Remove dead and laded (lowers it lid seed pods from pansies, violas, primroses, polyanthus, and others, as these are a drag upon plants, and should bo removed unless they arc required to ripen for seed. Remove faded llowers from roses. Bud slocks that are ready with approved kinds. Remove suckers, both on standard and dwarf roses. THE GREENHOUSE Pelargoniums going out of flower should be put outside to ripen their wood ready for cutting dbwn later._ Cinerarias may bo sown ior spring flowering. All hardwood plants put outside previously to harden must not suffer tor want of water. Watering and shading must be carefully and regularly attended to as the heat ol the day requires. Calceolarias and other plants in llower will require a Jot of water and an abundance of air. Ferns of various kinds will bo making rapid growth in sending up young fronds; consequently they will require considerable attention by way of watering and assisting with an occasional application of weak liquid manure, soot water, and that made from sheep droppings given one week about with clear water between. This will assist them wonderfully to put on- strong and fine fronds. I have found maiden-hair ferns respond rapidly to such treatment. Remove dead leaves and faded (lowers from plants. Scrub and clean pots. Do not allow green slime to form on them, as this is unhealthy for tho plants, as well as being unsightly. On the first appearance of green fly or any other greenhouse pest, fumigate the house with nicotoeide or X.L. AH. Do this on a dull, damp night, taking care to close all ventilators. Should there be holes in the glass, throw a wet sack over them to prevent the escape of the fumes. The next morning remove the sacks or covering, open the vents, and syringe down the house to remove dead insects and to freshen up the plants. ANSWERS “ Nemo.”—-The cherry leaves forwarded are badly affected with shothole fungus, named from tho innumerable quantity of small boles perforating the leaves. It is a fungoid disease. After tho fruit is .gathered, spray the whole tree with lime sulphur mixture, or Bordeaux-surnmer formula. It is rather late for spraying now, but it will do good'. The best time is early in the season to_ prevent its appearance. Prevention is always better than than cure. ' , - “ 0.L.W.” asks;—“Some nium cuttings have been promised me. Can I grow them outside? ” -Yes, provided the situation is a warm, sunny, and sheltered one. They make a bill-

BOX

... One of tho most noticeable characteristics of tlie American gardenmaker is the desire to achieve immediate effects and impart to tho garden lie plans an appearance of age and dignity (says a New York contributor to the ‘Gardners’ Chronicle,’ London). To attain this end ho will often go to a great amount of trouble and expenditure in moving largo trees —so nxrge indeed, that in. Britain it would he considered almost impossible to transplant them safely. Tims it is that landscape gardening—or “ landscaping,” us it is more often termed —is a very real profession, and many firms specialise in this class of work. The American who builds a. home wants a garden us a matter of course, but ho wants it finished practically so soon as rho dwelling is completed; hp wants a garden lie can enjoy, and is not coiitcnt with planting for tho benellt of his children. Furthermore, tho avenge American does nut love the plants lor their own sake; he is only concerned with the effect that can be obtained by tho grouping and planting of various trees, shrubs, etc., about ins home. One of tho subjects most favoured for planting to lend an appearance of dignity and age is Box, wliich is regarded as a shrub, because in if is severe climate it is not absolutely hardy, and bus to bo protecci from tho rigours of winter by a covering of burlap, or similar material. The great majority of the Box trees planted in this region are imported from more southern States. Virginia .supplying much of the material. Demand creates supply, and one flourishing Now York business exists for the purpose of supplying this demand for ’urge specimen 'ices of Buxus. The linn m cucslnm ■ was founded about live years ago, ami to-day has'a turnover of norc than loo,Uoodol per year, with au ever-in-creasing volume of business. Tho box—some specimens of which arc more than a century old—arc lifted with a largo ball of soil, which is completely wrapped around with strong burlap, secured in position with encircling bands of wire fastened to vertical stays of stouter wire. Each plant is then placed upon a stout wooden raft or platform, which vanes in size according to the size of the ball of soil and roots, and is made secure with stout wire lashings. Tho .plants are thou cntraincu and despatched to tho warehouses in New York City, where they are available for inspection by prospective customers. Some ol the trees so handled arc compact specimens, lUft or more in height and as much through, and weighing a ton or more. Tho soil in which they grow naturally is a stiff clay, and owing to this fact the ball holds together, and specimens packed in this manner may remain implanted lor a year or more with impunity, provided they receive protection from strong sunlight and drying winds ami arc supplied with moisture at the roots. In the New York storage quarters quite a large stock is always kept on hand, and, as may be imagine;!, they represent considerable capital, for exceptionally good specimens sell at l.UOOdol each, while from ‘JoOdol to uOOclol is the usual price Tor smaller plants. Recently we had hall a dozen box trees of varying size conic to Greyslonc, and an enclosed photograph conveys some idea of the method of packing for transportation. From Now York they were conveyed here by motor lorry, and after unloading a,t the nearest accessible point to the planting site they were moved the remainder of the distance on rollers. Holes of sufficient size having previously been dug, a derrick was rigged bv means of winch the plants were lowered into tho holes. The wire lashings were then removed, one side of the hole cut to form an inclined plane, and tho raft dragged from under the roots with - the aid of a motor truck. After the plant was finally adjusted in the exact position tho space surrounding tho ball was lilled with water and a hosepipe left running into.,it for twenty-four hours in order that tho roots may be thoroughly saturated before any soil was filled in around them.

So soon as planting was completed preparations were made to guard these valuable acquisitions From tho inclemency of tho weather. To ensure tins two or three half-hoops of iron piping were placed over each plant, and their extremities fixed firmly in £io ground. Strong burlap was then fastened securely to this pipe-frame work. This forms an effective, protection from cutting winds and heavy falls of snow, for it is these Factors rather than low temperature which prevent the growth ot such plants without adequate protection.

AUTUMN AND WINTER SALADS

The provision of salad plants during the autumn and winter calls for foresight and attention during the summer, and it should not bo overlooked during this busy period if possible (says the ‘Gardners’ Chronicle’). Chicory is one of tho most useful subjects for this purpose, and seeds of a good variety should have been sown during April or early .May (October and November in New Zealand), in •ml on which celery or leeks were grown last -season. As • the seedlings grow they should bo thinned out to one 4,00 b apart, and the surface of the ground hoed constantly to promote free growth .and keep down weeds. They should' require little more attention until the foliage ripens in the late autumn, when'the roots may bo lifted as required, the foliage partly trimmed off, and the plants placed close together in the mushroom house, or any dark shed. If planted in clusters of three or five, in Din pots, or placed in deep boxes of any light soil and watered in, they should soon begin to grow again, and when the growths are about 9in high they may be cut at the base, and should serve as excellent salad material. Chicory should be grown “as cool as possible, or it may become, infested with fly,. and when ready for use it

CURIOUS PLANTS

POISONOUS AND STIMULATING Plants arc odd things. There is an Egyptian lotus (Lotus Arabica) which, when growing, can be cut and fed to cattle, yet when ripe it contains a deadly poison. Then take the Indian plant of which the native name is madar. The leaf treated and applied like a poultice will euro a severe sprain or bruise, yet the milky juice has an extraordinary effect if swallowed. The sufferer has fits of terrible dejection alternating with bursts of wild merriment and shrieking laughter. This goes on for some hours; then, if the dose has not been severe enough to cause death, the patient falls into a deep sleep, from which ho wakes up comparatively well. The coca plant of South America is a shrub with small, light green leaves which have a somewhat hitter taste. The natives powder these leaves and mix them with lime to form what they call “ ypadn.” _ The stuff is chewed, and is an amazing stimulant. With a supply of this in a pouch, the South American Indian will walk for two or even three days on end without food. But coca jurist be used with great care, for if the doses are too heavy they turn the chewer of ,the leaf into an idiot. The same may be said of the ganja plant of India, from which the drug known as hashish is prepared. Many natives smoko ganja regularly and do not seem much the worse, except that they become very thin. But excessive us’Ojof this drug leads to terrible consequences—very similar to those incurred by Europeans who acquire the morphia habit. Mandioea, or cassava, which will grow in almost all hot countries near sea level,, is a tall, handsome plant with large tuberous roots. There is perhaps no other plant in which life and death are so strongly blended. Cattle get fat on, the leaves and stalks, while the roots ground into pulp make farina, from which a bread is baked. We eat cassava‘in the form of tapioca, yet the raw juice of the roots is a deady poison, thirty-five drops of which will kill the strongest man in five or six minutes.. This juice, however, fermented and boiled forms a drink which is refreshing, and no more unwholesome than beer,

PARSLEY

A sowing of parsley, made during this mouth, should produce a valuable crop lor next spring, as m very cold soils the autumn sown plants do not make sufficient roots to withstand the wet aiid cold winter, and arc often disappointing, although in sumo districts these sowings arc quite satisfactory. Ground which has been well cultivated and manured for a previous crop should he suitable, and the beds may he made four feet wide, with alleys between them (says the ‘Gardener’s Chronicle ’), Sow the seeds thinly, and thin the seedlings to about eight inches apart; these operations may he performed without treading upon the beds, while if the alleys are dug during the winter they drain the excess moisture from the raised beds. The method adopted by some market growers, of sowing Lisbon onions with parsley, is very satisfactory, possibly tho protection given by tho onions during the winter being the reason for tho good results that arc obtained; however, great care is needed when removing the onions so as not to disturb the parsley. Good varieties should always be sown, and among other uses the foliage may he serviceable when exhibiting vegetables. During tho summer months tho leaves should be cut systematically, removing all tho outer growths, which may bo dried for use during the winter. The beds which are cut over later in the summer should produce short, strong growths, which may withstand the frosts and snow. Seeds may also he sown now in skeleton frame's, to, produce supplies during the winter, when protection may bo given.

STRIKING CUTTINGS

Most gardeners find raising plants from seed an easy matter, but have not nearly such great success in propagation. This method of growing p ants should not be attempted unless proper soil is available. Sand is necessary as a foundation; if working in the open, dig a drill and place sand in. the bottom. Into this put the cuttings, then cover up with ordinary soil. Water should he judiciously used on cuttings. Antirrhinums, carnations, and geraniums thrive best in dry conditions, but generous applications of water are needed for fuchsias, hydrangeas, and viburnums. Boses, pentstemons, and azaleas like to have their feet wet, but the soil must not bo sloppy. Where frames fire available the soil can be prepared; but it is essential that at least 40 per cent, of sand he added to' leaf-mould and loam. With the heat from the frame germination in this sharp sand will be rapid. By this method all the plants mentioned except roses —can be experimented upon, and petunis, bouvardias, and border begonias may he added to the list. When plants in frames take root, gradually let in sunshine and open air daily until they are ready to set in the open. Since success depends upon excluding tho air from tho wood, press the soil firmly at the- base of the cuttings. Generally a piece of last season’s wood that has flowered is best to experiment with, but with antirrhinums and carnations use the tops of the old stems only.

THE CARE OF LAWNS

With holidays on many gardeners arc wondering how their lawns will fare while they are away. The usual practice of removing the clippings should not ho followed. Allow the cut grass to remain as a mulch. By the adoption of this practice the soil never becomes impoverished; in fact, it really is enriched. The short grass is not unsightly, because in the course of a day or two it dries up and gradually disappears below the surluce. Lawns looking dry on the return from the holiday may quickly be recuperated by watering them in the evening with a solution ol sulphate of ammonia in the proportion of half an ounce to a gallon of water. A simple method is to mix the sulphate with a quantity of sand, and sprinkle it over the surface or the lawn, and then thoroughly water it in with the sprinkler. Lawn sands arc procurable from the seedsmen with full instructions for their use if the trouble of mixing tho ingredients is thought too great. Two or throe applications will effect a remarkable change in the appearance of the lawn. Prior to going away give tho lawn a thorough soaking. In tho case of buffalo grass lawns the risk of serious damage is not as great as in the case of lawns made of English lawn grasses, but if in good heart at the time of leaving an _ absence of a week or even a fortnight should give no cause for alarm.