THE GARDEN

Evening Star, Issue 19800, 25 February 1928, Page 19

THE GARDEN

WOIRK Fm THE WEEK.

WORK FOR THE WEEK THE VEGETABLE GARDEN Sow onions, carrots, lettuce, cabbage, and cauliflowers, and plant out broccoli, cabbage, lettuce, cauliflower, leeks, celery, Brussels'sprouts, and kale. The spring cabbage crop is so important that it is wise to look out the plot in good time and thoroughly prepare it. Select, if possibe, a piece that was well prepared for a crop last winter or spring, and which has now been cleared. Many gardeners make a practice of putting these cabbages on the plot that has just been cleared of onions, and the practice has much to recommend it. All growing crops will need attention in the way of hoeing, and particularly should this be stressed at the present juncture, because'good cultivation now will make all the difference between success and failure. Dig and trench any plots they become vacant, and for preference do it thoroughly, as the primary object of trenching is to thoroughly break up the soil to a depth of up to 24in., in order that the plant roots may not be obstructed by coming in contact with a hard substratum.

now varieties are being added to your coliection it is advisable to put these in a patch by themselves in case any disease should develop. To those growers who are certain that eelworm is attacking their daffodils, 1 would recommend the “hob water ” treatment, which is, briefly, as follows:—Get water to a temperature of UOdeg F., and immerse the bulbs into it, and keep them there for three hours. The temperature must bo kept to as near UOdeg F. as possible, and not more than 2deg variation is allowed. The treatment should bo carried out when the bulb is as nearly dormant as possible; otherwise the flower buds will b. 6 injured. Considerable latitude is allowable when the bulbs are not of blooming size. Then cool off the bulbs gradually, and without undue exposure. Take every possible precaution t.y prevent the treated bulbs coming into contact with an infected agency such as soil, dust, or bags. Bulbs may be planted wet without apparent injury, but the ideal is probably to dry and rest them for about three weeks before planting. ANSWERS TO CORRESPONDENTS.

“ N.E.V.” —Yes, tlie runners from your strawberry plants will be all right, and transplant as soon as you can. Now is the best time to get in a sowing of the Flower of Spring cabbage. ‘‘ Mack.”—Perhaps the safest method for you to adopt in saving the seed desired is to cut the stalk, enclose in a bag, paper preferred, and hang in a warm place to dry off. “Thrifty.”—lf your house is to bo used for tomatoes next season, and any disease, such as mildew, was present in the house it would be wise not to grow any catch crop in the house during the winter, but rather to spend the winter months in getting the house in good order for next season. If you are fond of salads you could try your hand at growing a few lettuces, mustard, and cress, and suchlike things.

TOMATO HOUSE AND VINERY Give plenty oi ventilation both day and night, and when the weather is at all suitable both r,he top and the bottom vents can be left open. Except on a very cold night the top vents can remain open altogether. The grapes should now be well advanced towards ripening and showing color. Go over the bunches and remove defective on crowded berries. If the method of cultivation is by an outside border moisture will be supplied to the roots, but in the case of an inside border artificial watering is, of course, necessary. It is generally advisable at about this period to give an inside border a last and thorough soaking and a stimulant in the way of liquid manure. Then no more water should be given till after the grapes are gathered, when it is desirable to give the vines another good watering to stimulate bud development for the next season. Almost the same conditions as to ventilation apply to tho tomato house as to the vinery, and fresh air is absolutely essential to keep the plants healthy. Continue to remove side growths or laterals, and as the lower leaves become old and turn yellow remove parts of them and in some cases tho whole of them, especially if disease is noticeable. A dusting of iiowers of sulphur, on the undersides of the leaves as well as on top, is beneficial if disease, especially mildew, is apparent. THE FLOWER GARDEN Perhaps the most important task in the flower garden at the present period is the getting in of spring flowering bulbs, and as quickly as possible. Many bulbs, especially tho daffodil, resent being out of the ground too long, and tho present is not too soon for planting. Early planting means earlier and larger blooms and no deterioration of the bulb.

PLANTS FOR COLD SOILS It not infrequently happens that the gardener finds himself confronted with the task of planting ground which, having a subsoil of clay, is cold and illdrained. It may even be stagnant a foot beneath the surface, while the possibility of remedying the delect by drainage is distant. No matter how good and friable the top soil may be, to attempt such plants as the moistureloving Primulas, _ or the largo-llowered Kaempfer Irises is hopeless. But there are many plants that will prosper under such conditions, and having given these a good trial, even in hind witli a “smelly” clayey subsoil, it has occurred to mo that a note on the subject would be helpful to many readers similarly placed. It is obvious, in the first place, that surface-rooters are mainly the subjects to grow. Among these are the herbaceous Spiraeas, but especially Spalmata and S. venusta (lobata) and their varieties, S. Ulmaria 11. ph, Astilbo Davidii, or A grandis, and the Astilbe hybrids. Cimicifuga cordifoha and C. racemosa will both do well under such conditions, and their creamy-white plumes are extremely useful for associating with the rather ferocious color of A. Davidii. The Ilodgersias may be included, for they thrive, with me - , in ground that even Primula japonica could not withstand, and any of the hybrid Globe Flowers (Trolhus) and other varieties of garden origin do equally well. Put in as an experiment in a very water-logged bed, Pborniium Cookianum, whose leaves do not exceed Utt in height, has grown most satisfactorily for many years. It flowers every season, and has just endured over 20deg of frost. Although the bigger Gunneras do not seem to enjoy such a cold base, G. magellanica is quite happy, and this makes a useful over-green carpeting plant for covering soil round about such subjects as the above-men-tioned P.hormium. Helonias bullata, which sends up purple spikes like those of a native Orchis, is also very contented with such ground. The herbaceous Senecios have not all been successful. S. Yeitchii does splendidly, raising aloft its stalwart spires of yellow flowers to a height of sft or 6ft, but the more beautiful S. clivorum soon sickened. Lythrum Salicaria, in its several varieties, has done admirably, as have those elegant species L. virgatum and L. alatum. Podophyllum Emodii major is also, among the successes, and it is a plant of no small interest and beauty, quite apart from its merits as a foliage subject. Most of the more robust hybrid Mimuluses are prospering with the above, and I find that while these grow and flower well in a, good, fairly damp soil, they are not nearly so troublesome when kept away from the water. M. Bartonianns, one of the most valuable and distinct of hybrid Mimuluses, I tried in an exceedingly cold, clayey soil, and it has succeeded surprisingly. In fact, these plants, put in as surplus, just to fill up, have proved the best of all. A good many Irises will, of course, thrive under such conditions as I have described, notably I. versicolor, 1. graminea, I. Monnieri, and I. Delavayi, although the last does not always flower so well ns one would wish. But the most satisfactory of the genus in this particular uncongenial soil is undoubtedly I. sibirica. In all its forms —a dozen, or more—it is in every way .admirable. There are scarcely any plants in the garden which receive less attention than these groups of the Siberian Irises. Yet they carry on, year after year, producing sheaves of blossom, and their luxuriant foliage very effectively smothers all weeds.— By A. T. Johnson, in ‘ The Gardeners’ Chronicle.’

Among the earliest of the flowering bulbs none is more welcome than the snowdrop. Early planting is particularly desirable, it being recommended by some to lift and replant when the foliage turns yellow. Choose permanent positions ' for planting on halfshaded, damp slopes, and as a groundwork for deciduous shrubs. Little colonies of snowdrops among hardy ferns, as well as in the narrow border, are particularly attractive. Winter aconite (Eranthis hyemalis), tlie golden blossoms of which rest on circular cushions of rich green leaves, does well in partial shade, and where it has plenty of moisture. Provided the ground is moist enough, under deciduous shrubs and tall trees is quite a suitable place. A .charming effort can he obtained when aconite snowdrop and chwnodoxa bulbs are planted in mixtrc.

Grape hyacinths or muscari arc exceedingly popular, both for cutting and as plants for carpeting a bed of tallgrowing shrubs or bushes. Plant these about 2in deep, but allow plenty of room between the bulbs, as they increase rapidly. . The crocus is one of tho earliest of the spring flowering bulbous plants. In sunny positions groups or rows of golden yellow, purple, and white crocuses on a narrow border are very effective. Crocus corners should not be covered ■with much more than an inch of soil, especially if the ground is of a heavy nature. Early plantings give the best results, and when planted leave the bulbs undisturbed for a few years. The hyacinth likes deep planting, and some gardeners recommend as much as Gin of soil above it, but where the soil is at all (inn nr heavy din or sin will do.

The early flowering tulips may bo planted about 4in deep in light soils, and say 3in where it is heavy. The larger and later flowering varieties need to be planted a little deeper, and if the soil is very light and sandy Gin and even 7in is not too much. The daffodil is at home in the shrubbery, in the mixed border, or naturalised on grassy banks and under deciduous trees. Of all the spring flowers it is the best for cutting for indoor decoration, and no garden should be without a supply. Daffodils may be had from Gin to 2ft in height, especially in the trumpet section, which comprise the dwarf minimus, sometimes only 3in, and the giant King Alfred. Failures with daffodils may often be traced to wrong depth of planting, or to a dressing of fresh manure. Only spent stuff from hot beds or that which has been long heaped in the yard should be used. In heavy soils a dressing of basic slag is good, and for light and sandy soils use'erushed bones. The ideal soil and position to aim at is for the soil to be of fairly even texture, not too light and again not too heavy, though a little clay mixed with the soil is of benefit. A slight slope, which is well drained and that has been well trenched, is about the best position. Aim at having the soil in really good condition and naturally rich in humus, and then the use of manures, both organic and artificial, can be dispensed with. The depth to plant is important, and growers must be guided largely by the class of soil the bulbs are put into. About three times the depth of the bulb is a good average depth, but this, of course, will he modified according to the texture of the soil, which is of a heavy nature would .necessitate the bulb not being planted so deep, and, on the other hand, if the soil is light and sandy, a greater depth than three times the .depth of the bulb would be preferable. Disease has played havoc with the daffodil in recent years, and perhaps the principal enemy to bulb growers has been the eel worm. Therefore when planting the bulbs look carefully for signs of decay, and if any are soft, with rotting or blackened centres, do not hesitate to destroy and if any

JUST TO REMIND YOU WHAT TO DO NOW Dry off gradually Gloxinias which bloomed early. Parsley sown for winter use needs thinning now. Water •_ regularly recently-planted strawberries if this is necessary. The propagation of bedding plants should now be in full swing. Freesias are obtainable now in various attractive colors. Various hardy annuals can be sown now for spring blooming. Arum lilies can be grown many years without repotting. .A good cutting should bo shortjointed and fairly firm. Put frames into good repair now ready for the winter. Vegetable marrows for -winter use should be ripened in the sun. Give a final tie where necessary to Michaelmas daisies. The early-flowering sorts of gladiolas are planted now. The correct time to cut back lavender is immediately the flowers have been gathered or have faded. Birds, once they commence, will ruin all the peas in tire garden if nets are not used to prevent them. .When putting cuttings in pots insect

Oar eontritfidoCp a vdtiim garden est, will lie glad to answer questions, which must bo Eocoiwsd not later than Tuesday of each week. fny mlmim mmst be handed is to the office before & on Friday.

them close to the sides, as they root better here than in the middle of the pots. Where onion maggot is very troublesome grow more onions from seeds sown in the open now, instead of in the spring. Clean out the greenhouse, if possible, to havo it ready for those plants which must soon be returned to it. Earthing celery checks the growth to a certain extent, so it should not be commenced earlier than necessary. Having filled pots or boxes with the prepared sand/ compost for rooting cuttings, spread a layer of fine sand over the As the hole is made to take the cutting, a little sand goes to the bottom, and this prevents stagnation and possible decay at the vital point. Because the various “ bedding ” plants have to bo increased by taking cuttings now is no excuse for spoiling the appearance of the beds, when it is possible they will remain attractive for another month. It is quite easy to take off a good many shoots and hardly miss them if the work is carefully done. Where large numbers are wanted reserve plants should have been grown. Cover most bulbs when potted with ashes or some other suitable material to a depth of Sin; this ensures root formation before top growth, and the bulbs are not so liable to lift out of the soil. Do not try to do a lot of good all at once by giving liquid manures of any description much stronger than advised in our columns; it will almost certainly do much more harm than good, particularly whore “ artificials ” arc being used, and in any case it is waste. Make a sowing of Schizanthus if you have only a cold greenhouse; they make an effective display in the spring, and are easy to grow in a cool or cold greenhouse, oven a degree or two of frost making no difference to them. Do not try storing early dessert apples for long, as the flavor will be vastly inferior to that possessed by those eaten from the trees. Culinary sorts are another matter, and these should he watched carefully forgathering at the right moment. ft is unwise to gather apples immediately a few fall from the trees; they will probably bo found to be affected in some way, and apples gathered too early will not keep very well. Put in more cuttings of bedding plants than the actual number of plants you will require; losses are almost certain to occur in winter, and if numerous may cause a good deal of inconvenience next spring.—‘Popular Gardening.’