CAJOLING THE DEMONS

Evening Star, Issue 19782, 4 February 1928, Page 14

CAJOLING THE DEMONS

ANNUAL ROUND-UP IN PEKING [Written by M. S. Primmer, for the ‘ Evening Star.’] “ A wilful woman nulst have her way. Let her go.” And then to me: “ And, after all, tired and hungry with hours'of waiting, you’ll find that it isn’t worth it.” Thus spake the blase resident. All of which remarks naturally made me more determined than ever to see the world-famous devil dance at the 1,000-year-old Lama Temple in Peking, this ceremony ending tho New Year festivities. And now, as you read these words, this extraordinary survival of ancient times is once more drawing thousands of natives from all parts of China. China New Year, like Christian Easter, lias a wandering disposition, and we had some difficulty in finding out the date of the dance, as, perhaps naturally, tho Bhuddist priests were loath to become a mere show to foreigners. However, with a little perseverance we found that il.s first one, the calling in of the devils, was to ho at about 10 a.in. In high spirits two of us set forth, armed with, food and stools, wise precautions as events proved. A LONG VIGIL. When wo arrived there were already hundreds of Chinese of both sexes and all ages, and we wondered how we would manage to work our way to an elevated spot-, far from and yet near to the madding crowd. Tho problem was soon solved by _a friendly native policeman, who hoisted our stools on to the pedestal of a huge stone lion, of which two adorn all temples and palaces. Need I add that in a few seconds the lion was hidden under women and children, eager to* have the added treat of watching the behaviour of foreigners. By 12.3 U our appetites had grown, arid so, to the unspeakable joy or dozens of youngsters, we began to eat sandwiches, a fear-some concoction in the eyes of Chinese. Just to see the effect, I offered one to a boy, who was doing his best to entertain us by singing ‘ Onward Christian Soldiers ’ in a high falsetto mixture of pidgin English and Chinese. _ A large bag of peanuts, costing a trifle over a farthing, compensated him for his heroic attempt to swallow our-—to him —nauseous food. Another >,hour passed, the beautiful temple courtyard was packed almost to suffocation, and we wondered wherever the performers would find space. And then, quite suddenly, wo saw the crowd divide, and knew that our patience was to be rewarded, for a “devil” appeared, grotesque enough to give one bad dreams that night.,?

A WONDERFUL SETtING. Two priests now stepped from as beautiful a setting as ever man devised. Immediately behind lay _ the temple, or rather monastery buildings, the curves of whose yellow and green tiled roofs were sharply silhouetted against the bright blue winter sky, while here and there curiously-shaped stone gateways invited peeps at shade and seclusion. Half a dozen flagstoned steps running along the entire front of the main temple; an avenue' of immense and ancient trees throwing eerie black shadows; massive' urns with burning incense; and_ in every available spot Chinese men in purples, blues, and reds, or Manchu ladies conspicuous with flower-bedecked headdresses and gaily-tinted facekj’ made an unforgettable scene. The priests put hideous masks over their heads, and walked among : the crowd, whose ,respect and admiration were not' lessened when this uncomfortable headgear was moved' to the back., of the head, and finally tucked under the arm I Another half-hour passed, and then came the real thing. Music, somewhat plaintive and faint, perhaps because of the antiquity of the long trumpets and drums, floated to us, to be followed by the sharp crack of whips. The band took up its station by the side of the table, on which were piled sweetmeats _ and wine for the expected demons, this being considered the best means of enticing them to their doors. More priests, then fantastically-dressed dancers rushed in among the crowd of thousands and thousands (round our Rm all area wo counted over 100, and beyond, as far as we could see, was a seething mass of humanity), and all the time the whip-bearera would catch unwary ones, and for the moment clear a space for the comfort of the performers. It is said that the Chinese like to be “touched,” as it means good luck for the year; but their faces expressed chiefly fear and hurry, and however complacent the sufferers might feel later, at, the moment they were more scaled than happy. Anon came a stately procession, headed by the Grand Lama himselt or his representative, clad in a wonderful gold wrap, followed by the duet priests, wearing orange and red silk robes. With whippers on either side, they seated themselves round the festive board, awaiting the arrival or the dancers and their attendant demons. A sudden hush heralded these, and eagerly we turned to the temple, to be amply rewarded for our patience. THE DEVIL DANCE.

Four by four emerged fearsome beings, enveloped in exquisite robes, heavily embroidered in symbolical designs of gold, silver scarlet, and blue, while huge ghastly masks rested on their shoulders. Fierce, horned animals, demons with open .jaws, deaths’ heads, all appeared, terrifying the children, who were held shrieking in their parents’ arms. Slowly these apparitions gyrated, with peculiar waggings of the head, in pairs and in fours, keeping up a rhythmic movement that almost hypnotised one. Gradually they approached ,the food-laden table, round which_ they continued their curious motions, and then proceeded down the long cleared avenue to the main p'ailou, where more spirits were shepherded. Arriving at that point, their work for the day was finished, for no demon could still be offering resistance to the strong combination of delicatessen, music, and dancing. The performers now nonchalantly walked back to their monastic quarters, and fortified themselves for the final ceremony of driving away the demons thus gathered together. This took in the witching hour of midnight, amid curses and yells.