OUR LADIES’ LETTER.

Evening Star, Issue 4171, 10 July 1876, Page 4

OUR LADIES’ LETTER.

Paws, May 13 “The young May moon, is beaming,” and it is anything but favorable to love making vegetation, *r rheumatism; it is well-known that their can be 4 ‘ mischief in the moon, and certainly we experience the effects of that strange astronomical characteristic. It is only the moon that shows itself at this enech of the year that exercises a blighting inftaence, and we would willingly exchange it for one of the old ones. Judge of its effects* a man proclaimed from bis boxsect in the Chamber of Deputies a few days am, Napoleon IV., emperor by the grace of of Arc, and before M. Bouher could gtsnd up to second the motion, the intruder as fast between the hands of the bt; asters, as the maid in the clutches of the Ifbgllsh and the Church, at Rouen. The The vernal moon tells also on the Senate, a* its meetings, _like angels’ visits, are only held to vote tiie adjournment of the K ouse from week to week; yet it was at one Id me believed that the 300 grave and reverend seigniors would mark out for the Lower House the way in whioh it should go. So severe is the weather for old house porters ttat they are actually becoming polite, as if we were at the closing days of December, when their annual blacK mail has to bo remembered like a milliner’s bill. If the rv*«9 escape the biting frost, France will have reason to be thankful; for, with the disease the plant labors under in some regions, the Turkish non-payment of rente, the timid condition of trade, arid the dealers • in the little man wants hero below rehearsing prices for the year of grace 1878, only persons ■with whom money is no object can be able to hold on. There is a story told of » village curate, who, overhearing one of Ms parishoners anathematizing the spring moon in anything but an orthodox way, asked what he would do had he the guilty orb in bis power; 44 Yon would certainly drown it in your well.” 44 Not I,” responded the sly peasant, 44 1 would shut it up in my cupboard, and when the price of wine was too low, I would expose the moon to my neighbor’s vineyard.”

Happily the present is also the season for holding, -under cover, the annual exhibition .the works of the living artists, the show bmng popularly known as the Salon. The ♦ccasion furnishes a food for gossip, and •srhaps also a little for thought; it is thereahre not to be wondered at that just now amateurs and artists are the lions of the day, And of all the exhibitors, attention would seem to bo concentrated on a sculptor or tress •f two years’standing. Mile. Sarah Bernhardt, whose group, “After the Wreck,” attracts crowds that anxious await their “turn,” Ike famished Parisiennes outside the ford •hops pending the siege. Distinguished •sulptors stand amazed at suoh prooity, the more so when it is borne in mind that this - lady is the first actress in France and whose time is taken up with noon-day rehearsals, and nightly performances. The jfcjtrehess Rothschild follows next in point «f cariosity, for her admirable paintings; 'She toe has not much time at her disposal, far not a day passes but she has company to - / dejeuner or dinner, independent of receiving and paying visits, appearing at halls and dropping in at theatres; it is gratifying to • »ote these prominent positions occupied by ; car sex, and the example of how much hard work a lady can do, if so inclined. Occupation is the best promoter and supporter of good health aud sound sense; hence, why so many French ladies find snob ■resources in art, and a still greater number in taking out degrees in literature and science at the Sorbonne, without aver becoming blue-stockinss, The Salon becomes naturally the text for dining-room sen vernations, so the gommeux, as ninnies and men about town are dubbed, can only «hlne by reading up; thus they are eloquent about chiaroscuro, the line of this master, . and the brutal realism of that, their knowledge in these , mysteries appal even the initiated. Who coaches np this omche of «f*eiety? Perhaps they subscribe for their intellectual food, as they contract for their meals at a fashionable restaurant ? Diners*nt are accused of purchasing, their jokes, . add laying up stooka °£ witticisms ; however, every Frenchman would feel insulted if you asserted he was not a good judge of pictures; - The Salon is an institution which dates from Lonis XIV. s it was held even during the Reign of Terror, and' strange to ,iray, the catalogue of that year—l793—was the most voluminous that ever appeared. of the chief works then exhibited was a drawing of a Deputy representing a “ Republika's costume,’’ it was accompanied with descriptive details, and this costume was the two « what, is. to-day universally worn in . France —the blouse. The Salon is also the rendezvous for sharp b'ifmnesß men, of brokers with purchasers at their heels; the artists are in most cases not the proprietors of their works ; the picture dealers, as well as the booksellers, have their “hacks,” so that a treasure is mortgaged when it is only in the state of an idea. Btock brokers and financiers have a weakness for the fine arts, and the market for the latter fluctuates with the funds. Ottoman stock and Spanish bonds are the worst enemies pf the trade ; no broker would ever think of ordering a dozen paintings, as he would a dozen champagne, when balls and bears were as enraged as some Mussulmans and Christians. Thia explains how every Parisian “banker” has his “gallery,” * or Mat is necessary tp become a banker is to pay the license feej put a plate ever your, door, and a standing advertisement in the journals. There is a story onr-"-rented ah eminent financier who built a gallery and “stocked it” with paintings—all trash, since he selected them himself. Hi * intended.son in law praised the collection, and valued it at 200, OOOfr. at least, ‘ ‘ You •’ will learn with pleasure,”, added the banker, * * that these valuable paintings form my daughter’s dowry.” The wedding did not take place. Romeo did not view the matter in this light, so the sauce hero, as the French say, failed to passed the fish. One exhibition leads to another. For outsiders, perhaps the year 1878 and the magnificencies in store for them at Paris r may be a delightful prospective to which to ’ -look forward, bUt for permanent residents the view is not at all Charming. Already ; -th& signs are numerous and unmistakeable of the miseries ahead; friends who can almost claim; the freedom of relatives resume their ' ‘ tircttUr ridtes *, they regret the oversight of ..nofe .sending the,barrel of wine from their -.yihayird. promised in 1867, fpr hospitality /yeadered, and till now unrequited; country cousins ip general commence to have a strong , desire to view Paris/.'bo.tihav& nd’objection wait a little longerperhaps one may - ;t 'have * spare cupboard or an empty chest of .drawers for visitors not difficult to plea e, / and a lumber room for poor relations at the ’ cWse of the fote. • There is nothing like taking time by the forelock ; the eafis the gentlemen complain, add an extra sons to the ! price. of a glass of “ palesulee; ” and instead of giving the orthodox four Slices,,” , only three are supplied j thus almost nothing is left for t .riftv’outtomops to put in their pocket, and all this at the distant era of tho exhibition. What also merits notice is the formation of I

ftnd- the caterers ,of .public r wmiMeßaentg thto guilds, ostensibly to “reo : .qM* 9 even at t'i rent a " .jj&lins they agl'io to sAho theft mediini the establishmcnfat the GO Jt ' s

same time, though the law is against such a refusal. Dressmakers are adopting the innovation of being very plain in figures; but it is enough to make one swoon at the price asked for an ordinary season’s toilette—6oo francs —and this is considered moderate.

When you enter a show reom you are even brought to view such an art treasure with feelings of consideration on the part of the Marchande, who certainly expects costumes to think no more of a bank note than the sailor who, on being paid off after a long voyage, makes it do duty for a slice of ham or beef in the sandwich. It is not then surprising that dress makers and milliners have the most sumptuous town houses, and the handsomest country residences ; but nearly all their establishments are “joint stock” concerns, in which people invest as they would in a railway or in a loan. It being too p cold for out-of-door pleasure, the fashions cannot be seen to great advantage, save in the Salon, where eertiinly there are plenty of pretty toillottes, full of originality in .style,, and of choice in cut. There are, however,' some general characters very evident, which act as a key to the mysterious combinations of the reigning moite# stripes are narrowumd colors decided. The stripe pattern has the effect of making full figures look thin, and adds, as it were, to the stature. On the other hand, the square patterns, large or arabesques, bouquets, &c., suit best tall and slender persons ; they diminish in appearance the statne. In the way of colors, white enlarges, and black lessens; flat corsages are best adapted for embonpoint ladies, the pursed or fringed corsage for those who are the oppe site. Long features, on the same principle look best in a puffed coiffure , while the oval will find such a head-dress as frames the features, morc|harmonious. If Folly be represented by bells, fashion must plead guilty to covering costumes rather heavily with bell-shape trimmings ; next follows the abundant garniture of hats, robes, scarves, and fichus with lace, the more ancient its look the better; if it be not full of years, a little coffee can impart to it the smack of age. Cashmere and foulards are still in high favor, without affecting the seasonable linen- and cambrics; perhaps colors are becoming bolder, certainly such is the impression created, when combinations of blue and red are the order of the day. Very pretty dresses are made up in cambric, with pale bine stripes and a tender rose on a white ground, and where mircoourb lace shows to great advantage. A j polonaise much liked has no sleeves, and is worn on a faille robe of a harmonising color ; 1 the polonaise is in lama tnlle, cream shade, with soutache stripes of wool to match, and close together; it fits the figure closely, is fastened behind by large mother of pearl buttons, and is garnished in the middle of the back by cream-color d galoons, forming the figure of a fan. For out-door wear, faille maroon, cashmere, rose taffeta, and skyblue faille, have many admirers; hats have the diadem fronts, and others display the tumed-np border ; roses, jasmine, geranium, cream laoe, a d ribbon of same color to match, feathers, gauze, silk, and straw, form the materials to construct apparently any shaped bonnet the wearer pleases, for hats are rapidly becoming like toilettes, no two are precisely alike. The bou -geoisle are preparing packing up a selection of their goods and chattels for the summer campaign, limited to a villa life of five months in the snbnrbs. As a rule, ladies do not like this compulsory begira, but the gentlemen do ; the quiet evenino-g, after a hot sultry day in the city, and the early to bod and early to rise programme admirably suits their temper and their health ; but except on Sundays, suburban life is a very dull. affair indeed for ladies. Amusements there are none, picnics are no Uiore a French institution than - Dorcas meetings in ]bhe woods, and it is difficult to induce gentlemen, except those naturally endowed with a disposition for forlorn hopes, to quit the attractions of Paris for a small and early morning party in the country. On the other hand, citizens nearly perform the mi acle of making the mountain come to Mahomet, by the supply of all provincial products to the Paris markets, for money never impedes an inhabitant from having all the delicacies of the season months before the season arrives. All classes have this taste in common—to eat now peas, potatoes, asparagus, and fruits, as soon as these luxuries appear in wadd nglined boxes in the windows of the chevets and potets. Happiness, said the humorous Charles Mousalct, resembles green peas—the rich may have the earliest of the crop, but the season never closes without everyone having their spoonful. Freaks of nature beget freaks among individuals. Louis XV. received on . one occasion a goblet of milk from a cow that a courtier had fed on green peas. Mademoiselle S. hncider, the actress, a few years desired to equal the good luck of King Louis. Hcr director, Offenbach, gave a banquet to his troupe, invited Schneider, as a matter of course, ■'■' he refused on the plea of ill-health, but Offenbach knew she would come, if only to display a new dress she ha i ordered from Worth. ’ She did appear, hut refused to touch the most delicate plat, according to her doctor’s orders. At a signal given, a curtain rose and revealed a cow eating green peas—it was the month of February. A dairymaid arrived, and with a silver pail invited* the actress to milk the cow, which she did. After straining the milk into a gold cup with her name engraved thereon, she proposed the health of Offenbach, and eat like a sufferer escaped from the raft of the Medusa, while the band executed the “liana des Vaohes,” from “William Toll.” This remedy fora bad appetite might be tried “ when all others fail.” In addition to this passion for the precocious fruits of the earth, Parisians have another, that of being able to witness the first representation of a play a moment when the majority of persons elsewhere keep away It is, however, the occasion for displaying the whole strength of wardrobes, and proving to creditors you are in comfortable circumstances and to neighbors that you suffer from plethora of wealth. There is a story told of a Frenchman who was onco arrested for debt, when such was the law of tho laud. His wife instantly faro full vent to her tears. “Do bo calm, *alo, before a week’s time you will bo off to the theatre to witness the first night of a new play,” observed the husband in a jesting manner. “Oh ! never, never,” she roplcd, “ unless ’’—after a profound reflec-tion—-“the piece is one where there will be a great deal of crying.”