LADIES’ LETTER.

Evening Star, Issue 4057, 26 February 1876, Page 1 (Supplement)

LADIES’ LETTER.

Paris, December 25. Any foreigner compelled by business, or induced by pleasure, to spend the last fortnight of the year in Paris, will certainly return home convinced that the French merit the reputation of being the politest people in the world. Apart from the fraternal fist-shak-ings between deputies at Versailles to emphasise argument, there reigns in every class of society a geniality and studied kindness not to be found among us outer barbarians. Servants obey every order of their masters with alacrity; wives cease to scold, that is—to complain, and children forget to cry. Perhaps the foreigner, if he belong to the intelligent and observing class, will set down this millennium to the Republican constitution, that already some politicians who voted it for believe to be too aged, after ten pjonths existence. Let him prolong his stay, however > till New Year’s Day, and his illusions will be ruddy dispelled. This mildness of manner is but a sign of the times, destined to vanish for another twelvemonth, after the exchange ot etrennes, the familiar name fqr free-will offerings, levied with a kind of pistol at your head, and to the de maud of your money or your happiness during the year of grace 1876. This system of making presents is audacious^plundering; a poll-tax, levied by every inferior upon his superior, through every stage of . the . social system. The pool bachelor is most , ill-treated, which may perhaps explain why his order is less longer lived than married men: he is plucked by his landlady ; by her, servants ; by thb wh^tqrs oi the reatauraht, where he hie jaeale;

and by the garcons of the caf 4, where he 8 ? 6 j 8 eveH i n gs of his life over a game £ ™T noeß an< i a glass of sugar and water of Mahometan strength. He must also present a box of bonbons to every lady acquaintance who, during the last year, has invited mm to her house, where, instead of a substantial lunch awaiting him, to recompense his sacrifice, he finds nothing but a table piled with glittering trophies, wrung from ms brethren in misfortune. Financially, friendships thus do not pay in this country. Wrung is not too severe a word to apply to these Nabob tokens of respect, which must be obtained at some renowned establishment ; chocolate and sugar abominations must be purchased at their weight in gold. •ii accept a valuable jewel, but will be very punctilious to exact a sac of sugar-frosted chestnuts costing lOOfr; the material of the sac being the centre piece of a costly Indian cashmere shawl. This year’s bonbons will be given in caskets closely resembling the fashionaiblebounets. This system is based on the belief that it tests not only the manner*! which the donor has been brought up,, but is also a proof of generosity of tne heart. Beneath the sugar plums is often concealed a present of serious v ri u ®- Between ladies, the 6trennes exchanged consist almost always of objects of toilette, jewels, fans, lace, and coiffures. Some ladies offer only bonbons; but in a valuable plate in China porcelain, Japan, old Sayres, or ancient Rouen, all tied up in fantastic paper and gold cord.

The young folks are not to be forgotten, and will take good care not to allow themselves to be so. No rag-baby will satisfy MUe. Jeanne ; her doll must be a close mutation of some celebrated actress, and the toilette bearing the “ Worth ” hall mark. Her brother Alphonse clamors for an. entire army of leaden soldiers, a foot high, provided with batteries of breachloading Knipps, and demanding real gunpowder. These costly knicknacks tend to go out of fashion ; fof parents are becoming more inclined to reward their children in hard cash, inducing them to guard it as the gold guinea pocket-money of the Vicar of Wakefield’s daughters. Even this system, however, has its drawbacks, as last year Baron Rothschild’s son, on visiting his grandmother, complained “Nanny” had only given him “an ugly old picture” ; and he threw the morsels on the floor, while crying bitterly. The fragments represented a bank note for 1,000 francs. The daughter of Dumas JUs is perhaps a match for the “Boy speculator” of California. Mdlle. Dumas, aged twelve, has saved up her monetary presents, which she has placed in a banker’s hands ; and so well has that agent invested her “capital” that she is now quite a respectable shareholder in the shares of the Suez Canal.

Finance is closely allied to the fine arts—in this country at least—for the best patrons of the artists are the stock brokers, or jobbers. The aristocracy take very little interest in pictures, and thus the field is left free to the gamblers on ’Change. Every stock broker thinks it a duty to patronize the arts and to have his collection, and the middle classes enter into the spirit of this commercial aspect of the matter. Lately, ■when it was proposed to supersede the annual by a triennial exhibition of paintings, such a storm was raised that the authorities had to abandon the reform. Paris society finds food for thought and gossip in a picture by any “new” master. It is thus that Meissonnier’s monster tableau, “ 1807, ” or to give its true name—-with all respect for the .Russians, now so much in favor- “ The Battle of Friedland,” for the first time in his long career Meissonier has tried “hdgh art.” His picture measures seven feet by four—David formerly sold his pictures by the square yard—and is the result of ten years’ labor. He finished the picture in order to possess funds to complete his mansion, for one of 1 the peculiarities of is to erect houses for themselves, and as a rule to exemplify the proverb that fools build houses for wise men to live in. The picture has been sold for L 12,000, but art critics are of opinion it is not worth the money. “ Everything in the picture,” it is observed, “is m cast iron, except the breastplates of the cuirassiers, and they are iti pasteboard.” ‘ However, Meissonier has many rivals and few friends, and in any case he is more at home in microscopic or cabinet pictures. The pending elections 'have completely spoiled the season. Ministers do their best to promote gaiety, but even their dinners are mere knife and fork politics, and' their balls so many coteries for electioneering. The gentlemen will not be disengaged tm. March next, and then ladies can count upon* finding.partners at balls.. These electoral occupations retain mhny* families in the country, or compel them to return there,, for dinners and nails go far id 5 deciding those now paramount sovereigns—the voters whose wives must be recognised and their daughters ' honored. Thus the fashions are difficult to view, the theatres hot being so well filled by iUgantes as hitherto. A ■Redding or a drive to the Bois will at any time reveal the latest marvels. Much attention is given to coiffure* at present, where tulle and Cplville lace enter very largely into their composition. Velvet foliage enjoys at present a very leading position in the reigning fashions, though a fautary, it must not the less be uniform in color : that is to say, completely black or white, cream or blue, according to individual taste. For dress bonnets, velvet and peluche are the favorite tissues, these being necessitated by the capote hat, an old acquaintance. Feathers are largely worn, and are so rolled around' the bonnet as;, to form a train behind. When the, feathers are short, ‘ they are formed into a plume.' Cock’s feathers are discarded ; it is. the fate of all cheap articles. Costumes are superbly trimmed with 'peacock and ostrich feathers. Thus, a Princesse costume in black velvet, the middle of the before and behind being cut eii cuiratse, while the sides are prolonged in large square ends, as far at the bottom of the jupe, framing as it were the training tabner; the borders are surrounded with a fringe of black feathers gracefully falling on a jupe" of sea-blue faille ; the sleeves are assorted to the jupon. A very elegant corsage was worn lately by a lady at the opera; it was low-bodied and square, with a falling border 6f English point; the peasant fichu, in Colville tulle, placed in the interior, a bouquet of mixed pansies and mignonette being placed at the angle; Louis XV. sleeves of the same material as the fichu. Pockets are as varied as the tastes of the ladies, but the absence of a pocket would be heresy itself; the pocket may be either fictitious or real, and is commonly made in the -ame stuff as the robe, and ornamented with the same trimming, it can be placed either on the sides of the tablier, or behind the hunches, right or in bias, and on every garment, even the “Ulster,’* or any other paletot. For the moment no other wrap is possible but the Ulster, which, is undoubted y cozy, pending the daniip, cold weather. White or colored Surah is very much employed for dinner toilettes, and yellow or white satin for ball dresses;

A very popular lounge for ladies, especially on Sundays—the public show days—is the general auction mart. A pilgrimage to this Whll-kuowu spot will not be lost time. [ Ph'ere are ever collections ol; pictures, dbjets d art, ancient, as well asthe most' elegant modern furnittire. It id an easy matter to an acquaintance with the history of art* The treasures m .very

valuable, and consist not only of. the feedings of collections, but are consignments from every part of Europe. No auction can take place in Paris without the presence of one of the fifteen licensed “ Knights of the ivory hammer,” and thanks to the Code Napoleon, the guild is very rich and charitable. This same code prevents a man from making a will as be pleases—there can be no cutting off a scapegrace-son or a strongminded daughter, with an “ angry shilling:” each must be accorded his share; but when a man leaves as his sole fortune only a few plated spoons and forks, with an arsenal of copper kitchen utensils wisely kept for show—to be divided among some seventy sorrowing heirs-at-law, the only way to divide these chattels is to convert 'them into current coin. The most iutere ding work op this auction mart was written by .Rochefort, when he was a youth to fortune and to fame unknown. He unveils all the mysteries of the institution. A stranger can still consult the volume with profit, and will find therein many a series of “ guide books,” red cover not being essential, instructing strangers not only how to see the capital, but how to live in it ? It is in this auction mart that one-half of the canard* that are disseminated over Europe, originate. A “ man about town ” cannot dispense with putting in a daily appearance here, if he desires to be well-informed not only about the scandals of yesterday, but even those of to-day. , It would seem that the articles as they are put up for sale suggest to lively imaginations the incidents for gossip ; another advantage to be gained, you can brush up your French, and elbow the notorieties 1 of the day; it is prudent to be prepared for a crushing, and ever to take the “ social pressure ”in good humor; a joke or a witty observation will captivate a Frenchrnm where all the displays of the purest logic would fail to convince him that you are not' rather low down in the scale of creation.

The Princesse de Bauffremont has as many enemies now as she formerly had friends ; she has of course lost all the sympathy of the French, who sustained her in her “ siven years war” agaiustherhusband, bybecoming G e mau, and she is not in the odor of sanctity by marrying an old friend when only separated from her husband, the Catholic Church not recognising divorce. Before obtaining her deed of separation she led a very pious kind of life, devoted herself to caring for the sick and aiding the needy; all sheclaimed was to be legally emancipated from her husband, and to pass the remainder of her days in retirement, continuing her works of charity,! and educating her two girls. Instead, she‘suddenly marries the Prince Bibesco, who, on one occasion, for the sake of her beautiful eyes, nearly killed her husband in a duel. “ Was woman ever in such humor woo’d, was woman ever in such humor won ?” The French Tribunal, treating her simply as a simple femme-injuiele, has ordered the sequestration of her property, and summons her to deliver up her daughters to be educated here, in the convent of the Sacre Cceur. What a position for the princesses, aged fourteen and twelve, legally prohibited intercourse with their parents on account the latter’s misconduct. The lawyers appear to be much occupied with the problem. Those p£ France reproach the Germans with having connived at the legal adnltery ; the German lawyers oh the other hand reply, with long extracts from the French ‘ Coke and Blackstone,’ that the Princesse has done nothing more than profit by the rights recognised by international law.

Boys and girls are in high spirits; having obtained a few extra holidays; the theatres are placing themselves wholly at the' Service of the young people ; those who dislike the legitimate drama and the pupazti can make a selection between the thirteen wild beast' shows in the city. ; It is a general subject of regret that the latter were absent from Paris during the siege; then they could have! been turned to account. ‘