LATEST FASHIONS.
For the Spring of 1874 there is no doubt that the dresses intended merely for walking will be made with ras-terre skirts, while those meant to serve the double purpose of out-door and house toilettes will be slightly trained, and raised in the manner we have previously described. _ The grey woollen or mixed materials _ just coming so rapidly into favour will make most appropriate and comfortable costumes for out-door morning wear. They are invariably made with a ras-terre skirt, and a polonaise or casaque. The trimming also generally consists of crossway bands and buttons ; but with even such simple materials a variety of effects and styles may be produced. For carriage and visiting wear, rich materials and styles obtain favour, the skirts being invariably long, with the fulness thrown into the train. ISTo very bright tints will be worn this season out of doors; when light colours are used, they will be rather of the effacees shade —so much more lady-like for wear in public. Coral colour, apple green, and turquoi blue will all be very fashionable. Mantles, polonaises, and casaques of all kinds made in the same material as the dress, will be the reigning style for outdoor .wear. The costume thus constituted seems to resist all attempts at dethronement, and deserves to succeed from the double point of view of economy and finished effect. The newest and best style of polonaise will be that cut “ en princesse,” bodice and skirt in one, without any fulness in the waist, one breastplait, or shaped front with side.piece at each side, seam down the middle of the back, and side piece. For afternoon outdoor wear, the tunique tablier, with its long ends in front, and handsome plaited short basque at the back, will bear the palm frbm all tight-fitting confections. It is admirably contrived, not only to improve the figure but to display the trimmings of the skirt. Trained skirts, with pouffs cut in them, with large sash apparently supporting them, or a trimming of some kind underneath, so as to give the same effect, will be much worn ; the side trimmings separating the tablier from the back of the skirt, trimmed differently, will also be much employed. The width of the tablier front is quite optional, and depends entirely on the style of trimming adopted. In some cases they are very narrow, while in others they extend quite to the seams, underneath the arms. The fulness of the skirt is invariably thrown quite back, the pouffs being very narrow; the front and sides just convenient length for walking; the train commencing farther back, and, therefore, more decided in cut. For in-door dress, the slope of the train is more gradual, and though not so convenient for walking, is certainly more graceful. Young ladies, and those with small waists, will welcome the return of the waistbands, which .will certainly be worn this season. They will mu °? silk or satin principally. The leather and metal arrangements of this kind are entirely confined to in-door deshabille morning wear. Double or single breasted revers will be in as great favor as ever. All bodices for in-door wear will be made more or less open, according to the occasion for which they are intended. For morning wear the open part will be occupied by a plastron the same color as the trimming, and a linen or muslin fichu. For afternoon wear, these will be replaced by muslin and lace, .or muslin embroidery of a more ornate style. The white linen collar and cuffs, lined and turned back with some color, are very, pretty and fresh in effect for first morning , wear; those with plaitings, satin-stitch embroidery, and
lace, for luncheon and morning walking dress. The square-cut en coeur bodies worn in the evening, if not accompanied by a tulle fichu of some kind, have a lace round the opening, either as a frill or plain; in the latter case a very fine elastic run in will be found much more useful than anything to keep them in shape. The sleeves of out-door dresses are always coat-shape, with cuffs or parements of some sort for in-door wear. Pinked out and frayed ruches will be much worn in all silken marerials, and I the flounces of such dress will be pinked. What is called English embroidery—that is, the material employed cut in holes, and sew round —will also be extensively used, and is excessively good style if worked on black silk. It is embroidered on the article itself not used as trimmings. The English embroidery on linen or nanzouk is, of course, used only to ornament percale or pique dresses, whether for ladies or children. Embroidered Indian muslin will be the rage of the season.
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https://paperspast.natlib.govt.nz/newspapers/ESD18740509.2.24.7
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Evening Star, Issue 3498, 9 May 1874, Page 2 (Supplement)
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790LATEST FASHIONS. Evening Star, Issue 3498, 9 May 1874, Page 2 (Supplement)
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