WELLINGTON FROM THE ETAKO HILL-TOP

Evening Post, Volume CXIX, Issue 33, 8 February 1935, Page 24 (Supplement)

WELLINGTON FROM THE ETAKO HILL-TOP

GROWTH OF THE CITY AND SUBURBS

THE tale of, white settlement in New Zealand goes back well over a hundred years, - for though the official centenary has not yet. arrived—it is. to be. celebrated in 1940— there were whites on the coast.very soon after the ,turn of the nineteenth century, perhaps a hundred all told, some ashore for good, others staying from ship to ship, others living with the Maoris in Maori fashion.. By 1839 the European population had increased to possibly a thousand, whalers, sealersj traders, missionaries, and a few determined settlers, but from 1840 onwards the white population increased rapidly through the colonising efforts of the several companies and associations in the Old Country. There had been earlier colonising efforts, but they did not reach fruition, though from mistakes and the shortcomings of these first attempts the later plans and expeditions profited. From a doubtful thousand in 1839 the white population rose to over 26,000 by the close of 1851, and in the next ten years to 99,000. Then came the gold rushes of the sixties, and from Australia, from England,' from the Pacific coast of America, from China, and further, came a flood of hopeful wealth-seekers. Few succeeded in their im- . mediate quest, but wealth came to many in other ways. So great was the influx that from a population of 99,000 in 1861 the-figure rose to almost double, 171,931, in 1865, the year in which Post made its first issue. Old files of "The-Post" have many references to gold in general and West Coast gold in particular. y . . GOOD YEARS AND BAD. ■ A still- more, remarkable boom set in during the next ten years, and particularly from . ■-'. 1874 to 1878, when, as a result of the encouragement offered by the undertaking of a great programme of public works and the Government's policy of assisted immigration, the population of the colony increased by-114,898, to 414,412, in the latter year. : In the late eighties and early nineties came dark years of depression, and for a few years those who left New Zealand exceeded in number those who arrived. The colony was very hard hit indeed, and many a. good man and well-established business were so badly struck that the future looked very black, but better times lay,not far ahead. World prices rose slowly, but for New Zealand a happy relief came unexpectedly, in the discovery of the possibilities of transporting mutton and lamb in refrigerating chambers to the markets of the Old World. Sheep were grown before then for wool and tallow, and for the limited local market; lambs, as lambs, were not of particular value; their value lay in the wool they would later, grow. The black cloud was broken and the - sun shone brightly on sheep farmers and on all New Zealand indirectly. ,- In more recent years the dairy industry encouraged rapid population growth,, with the . greater gain to the North Island, but that boom now appears to have reached a peak, and the trend is towards the development of secondary industries,.in which the Government's policy of high exchange is a considerable factor. CITY HAS NEVER LOOKED BACK. Wellington had no existence, if one white man living with the Maoris at Petone is excepted, in 1840, though there were villages and seaport

settlements at various points on the coasts of the North Island, and lesser beginnings in the South, but the coming of the settlers in the New Zealand Company's ships gave Wellington a flying start, and 4t has never in any year looked back. The past few years have been difficult, and for many disastrous, but ■ Wellington has continued to grow and develop; during the worst of the depression years city building progress has been maintained in a remarkable manner, though suburban development has slowed down. The population figures for Wellington and district in 1864 (the figures for 1865 are unfortunately not available, but the difference would not be great) were:— Town: 2327 males and 2326 females; total, 4653. • ' ' v . , , Province,, including town: 8342 males and 6645 females; total, 14,987. Wellington was still a small place, bigger than Upper Hutt but not as big as Blenheim today, and considerably smaller than Masterton, and, of course, lacked every one of the services —even of water supply, drainage, and street lighting—considered essential nowadays, but Wellington had a big spirit and a happy position, and with that combination simply had to prosper. SINCE THE WAR. The greatest event in the lives of most of us today, excepting those under the twenties, was the Great War, 1914-18, the event from which so many happenings and changes are dated, with events running so closely on each other's heels that 1914 seems only a very few years ago. Surely,. then, Wellington; could not have been so very different in 1914, but Wellington was, very different indeed. '■ It.is difficult to think back over even those few busy years, unless one recalls the empty suburban lands, now almost "built out," the one and two-storeyed wooden or brick city buildings which have since given place to steelframed ••and, reinforced concrete buildings,. the unpaved streets, the rough and dirty suburban roads, and harbour developments, fact today, but only paper developments then. Even with that careful thinking the figures come as a shock. .- On March 31, 1915 (the fiftieth year.of "The Post's", life) the population of Wellington suburbs was 75,143. Since that year the population of the city has been more than doubled, partly, it is true, through the amalgamation of what were then ' separate boroughs, Onslow, Karori, and Mira- : mar. but these borough populations were then much smaller than are the numbers within the old boundaries today. : Withoui"' taking into account the still rapidly-growing. boroughs of Petone, Lower Hutt, and Eastbourne, ' which some day will, probably be regarded as within the boundaries of Greater Wellington, the city . population is now estimated to" be 114,200. The history of all cities. is- that- they, must grow at a faster rate than the populations of their surrounding rural districts. The world over, the fact is noted and deplored, but nowhere is it for long halted, and particularly has this been true of recent years when, through a hundred details of technical progress less toilsome and more plentiful production of food and raw materials has been brought about. The plcrugh, the better plough, the tractor, improvement of

wheat strains and of harvesting methods, the overcoming of blights and pests, irrigation, machinery in the milking shed and the dairy, the circular saw for the hand saw, better stock, machine equipment of'" mines,, hydro-electric development—fewer men- produce more food, more materials, more power, and the urban drift becomes steady and irresistible, in spite of farm training for city youths and the urging of politicians, verbal or otherwise, of "Back to the Land!" Wellington, a town of under 5000 people 70 years ago, 21 years ago a small city of 75,000, today, a somewhat -worried'but hopeful city of 114,000, has not nearly finished growing yet. VALUES IN THE SUBURBS. ' The increment in values in the suburbs due to the city breaking through its barrier of hills may be illustrated by following up the original purchases of what are today residential sites. A great part of this increment has, of course, been swallowed- up in rates,' interest, cost of . subdivision, roading, and other charges, but expanding populations have enriched the lucky land owner in many instances. In Miramar a block of land containing 213 acres was sold in 1858 for £250, or a little over £1 per acre, and similar prices were paid for the best of the Miramar land at that date. In 1905 this land was sold as part of a block of 525 acres for £13,334," or approximately £25 per acre. In ' 1906, £331 was paid for half an acre, and in 1928, £1310 was obtained for the same halfacre subdivided into four residential sections. , It will thus be seen that this particular land rose in value during the course of 70 years from £1 per acre to £2620 per' acre. The whole of Roseneath, containing 104 acres, was sold in 1888 for £4850, the previous owner having defaulted to the mortgagee. This sale represents a value of £48 per acre. I n 1896 a little over an acre was sold in two sections for £380, and in 1904 half of the same acre realised £1124 in four sections. This half-acre;is still used for residential purposes, and is today valued for rating at£24os. We have the following increases in Roseneath :-^-1888, £48 .' per acre; 1896, £380 per acre; 1904, £2248 per acre; 1934, £4810 per acre. . In Island "Bay the price of an acre of land subdivided into four building sites was' registered in the Deeds Office in 1885 at £245 6s 8d (perhaps the legal; 6s 8d was added by the solicitor who registered the sale). In 1897, £300 was paid for an acre, arid this land was subdivided with an adjoining half-acre in 1927 into 11 residential sites. ■'■ These were sold between 1927 and 1933, and realised a total of £4365. This increase is from £300 per acre in 1897 to' £2800 per acre in 1933; • • '• ■ ' ■; CITY ACRE "THROWN IN." A section of land in Karori containing- 100 acres was sold in 1866 for £1000, and ,'as a make-weight ari acre of city^ land, in,Taranaki Street was thrown .in. Ten acres.'of this land were sold for £400.in 1877, and again for £700 in 1887—and here the. transactions on- this particular ten'acres stop,, for it is now held in trust, and. is used as a. school' site. ' Building .sites sold in.Karori in 1888 for £40, and they usually '. contained the full half-acre. Today the same half-acre, would, bring £1500. . The increase is from, £lo per acre./to £3000. j>er acre ,in. .70 '.years.. , . ■ r ' , . . .',['. Kilbirnie was sold in 1871, the' price' being : £2300 for 227, acTes, or £111 per acre. "A little more than an, acre was sold. in 1876 for £90, . .and in 1878 £250 was obtained for it in three sections. This acre. today carries a value of , £3500 in eight sections, an increase from £11 to 1 £3500 in 63 years, . . .

It is not an easy thing in these days of comfort, electrical appliances, indoor and outdoor amusements, varied cultural opportunities, and easy travel, to visualise the feelings, ideas, and * daily lives of- the women who left the Old Country and came to the Antipodes nearly a hundred years ago. Certainly they had not left the Britain of today, with its luxuries and interests, but they had to leave many glories of architecture and beauty, of history and old-world possessions, familiar cities and countrysides, trees and flowers, all having a power of attraction which they hardly realised till they had to leave them —perhaps for ever. It was a great adventure for the women—a voyage of five or six months in a sailing ship, with limited space, rough life, and poor food (sometimes bringing children), and with little knowledge of what. to expect when they came to the strange land of adventure,^ promise, and hardship. Brave, indeed heroic, women wefe the early pioneers. What did they find on arrival? An emptylooking country, with bush-clad hills, unfamiliar trees and birds, a foreground of ugly huts or wooden cottages; very strange after the Victorian comfort in the Homeland, pitch dark at night, and with few shops—these, too, like backcountry stores with one counter where haberdashery^ cotton, and linen goods could be bought, the rest stocked with.spades, shovels, and other tools, lanterns, tents, and seedsmen's goods.' These formed the equipment for the newly-arrived and their families. The effect was that many a woman cut her dainty trousseau or travel equipment into clothing for her colonialborn little ones. The alternative was to write, at least six months ahead, for necessities which could not be obtained in this country for love or money. SOME PARTY PROBLEMS. Stories there are in plenty of the way evening frocks were made to last. No "spring, summer, or autumn shows" for the pioneer women. A real trial recounted by ap early settler is told about a journey to a dance to be held in a woolshed some distance from her home. With other friends,,they started in a bullock-wagon (their usual conveyance when "Shanks's pony" would not suffice), and in crossing a rather flooded stream which was extremely rough going, a precious frock, rolled in a bundle, fell into the rushing torrent and was lost for ever. A best petticoat had to be made over as a frock for the.dance, as there was no way to return home till the party was over. This same community had a most exciting time in raking together garments for the Taranaki settlers who had taken to the sea in open boats, at a moment's notice, on account of a fierce attack by the Maoris. They arrived in the South Island nearly starved, cold, .and frightened. 'However, the British settlers welcomed them as Britons would, . warmed, fed, clothed, and kept them till better times came and they -could return to their homes. - : . Wellington was threatened by the fiauhaus soon after this time. They. were, at Otaki, and were expected at any time. Most husbands and older sons had to take turns at night watching around the powder magazine and store of arms, somewhere near the old Princess Hotel.

CHANGING FORMS OF SOCIAL LIFE (By M. H. Chattleld)

Wives and mothers had an anxious time then, for the Maoris were not gentle enemies. Another story of about that time was of the feeding or hundreds of Maori prisoners, who were brought into Wellington. They sat in rows on, the slope where the old Thistle Inn still stands, and the settlers took round great bowls of rice and potatoes to them. One lady had a strange visitor. A huge Maori man, in scant attire, walked into her kitchen, took the mutton from the oven, and walked off eating as he went. Like Oliver Twist, he wanted, more—and took it! Mothers had to doctor their own children in the country districts, and there are many stories of their resourcefulness and courage, which saved many a life. Even in towns drugs and appliances were scarce, and oftentimes necessity was truly the mother of invention; It is true, perhaps, that in some ways mothers have a hardar, or rather, a more difficult time now. Then there were no trams, no motors, and ■ no incessant traffic such as wears the nerves of parents nowadays. Just occasional riders, a series of wagons, or a "Cobb's Coach," and the young ones could come and go freely, and holidays were one long picnic. "BREAD AND BUTTER" BALLS. The social life was pleasant enough; the successive Governors gave dances and dinner parties, and the visits of the warships made very cheery times for the younger people. The visit of the Duke of Edinburgh and his suite was a great event, and all the smartest frocks came to light. "Bread and butter" balls were popular in the sixties and seventies. The community "gave" them during the sessions of the provincial legislature. Parliamentarians used to reciprocate in Parliament House at the end of the sessions. There were few houses big enough for dances, but Sir James Ferguson used to attend functions in the house of a German trader in Boulcott Street. At the Birthday Ball at Government, House one would find Wi Tako, Te Puni< and other chiefs and smile to note Maori women using the skirts of their white dresses to carry away tarts and sweetmeats for their picanninies. A breakfast party in the New Metropolitan Hotel one morning in the sixties was amused by the tale of one of the apostles of Hawke's Bay who had dined the night before with a high official. The source of his anger was surprising. A year before he had been embarrassed because he was the only guest in evening dress. He had been embarrassed again because he was the only one not wearing evening dress! People practised archery, and a gentle kind of" croquet —very different from the strenuous "lawn billiards" in vogue at present Riding parties were fashionable, for many folk had horses and ran them on the hills at Kelburn and Mount Victoria, and the children came in there, for at holiday time it was great fun to catch other people's horses and ride them bareback. Bathing, fishing, walking, all these things were" enjoyed in a climate that must (or perhaps only may) have been much milder than it is at the present time. Schools for girls were of rather a primitive kind, and a "polite education" was given, though good writing and spelling were con-

sidered a3 of more importance than it is in a. university education nowadays. A theatre entertainment was a rare and wonderful occurrence. People stayed at home in the evenings in a way that would appall present-day families, and the evening entertainment was often a reading aloud by the father of the family, Scott, Dickens, and the like authors being taken in turn,, while the mother sat and sewed, and the young ones (kept in strict order). sat and listened, and in that way often acquired, an. excellent taste in literature and knowledge of the classics. People travelled little, even in their own land, in die .early days, because the" fear of Native disturbances was. a deep shadow over, all the settlers, and the tragedies of civil war in this country are historical. Again, it was not the custom to be always coming and going, and travel facilities were so few, and not at all comfortable. However, in the main, people were content, though many longed desperately for a look at. Old Englanid once more, but had to die and be buried in exile, a six months' journey from the Homeland they loved so well. THINGS ARE DIFFERENT NQW. -Today, life is an altogether different proposition, especially for, girls and women. It-is only of late years that they have shared in some, of the privileges of men. Women, teachers now have the pleasure and interest of "exchange" Jnto other, lands- and the benefits thereof. Schoolgirls now have travel-oppor-tunities as well as boys. Girl Guides have tours and gatherings together, as have Boy Scouts; women run their own aeroplanes and motorcars, and1 taste adventure in its most entrancing forms. Women are eligible as Justices of the Peace, as members of Parliament, and have an open door to all professions and most trades. Most women are more interesting because they have wider lives, and there are not many left . whose discourse is mainly about the delinquencies of servants, ailments, and family details, and it is well that it is so, for, speaking generally, few men, women, or young people "suffer bores gladly," if at all. Women take a great part in social service. They originate helpful ideas which serve many a time to oil the wheels of life, and they are generally acknowledged to be wonderful financiers, getting the best out of every penny in their administration. While there are always people who like to "sit back" and look on at other people working, mainly women are energetic, perhaps because their foremothers were sucK wonderful workers, though on different lines, and the woman of today works and plays with brain and body, and gets the best out of life. , Most people must acknowledge that when a high authority declared recently that the women of New Zealand might be called "wonderful" the word was well and kindly bestowed. The girls are fine people in physique, and often in character, and will be better still when they have learned by experience to use the freedom of the times wisely and to the best advantage. In the meantime, which is a transition time betiveen the Old and the New, they take a fine part in the life of their times, and those who do not understand fail to remember that the young ones are having to take over a very difficult world, the troubles of which are not of their making. They are paying for the errors and follies of the past. There are few left who talk about the "goed old days," for the honest, at least, know that: they were in many ways very "bad old* days," specially for the pioneer women, whose trials' were many and whose pleasures were few. All honour be to their memory. *v —-