London Fashion Notes

Evening Post, Volume CXVI, Issue 49, 26 August 1933, Page 9

London Fashion Notes

LONDON, Juno 30. ■ The popularity of large or small hats -is about equally divided during these midsummer days, depending very much on the occasion they are worn,. The fashionable small hat is ofton high and difficult to wear, with the result that many women who favour close, small hats are turning to a brimmed small model, which, forms a ■ becoming frame to tho face. To wear the square-crowned hat or the very popular '' fez successfully one must have a small head, because any crown that does not follow tho line of the head closely is bound to accentuate the size of the head. Folds and pleats have the same effect. Luckily, tho closely moulded crown is by no means dead, and is still worn by wise women who know that the size of their head makes tho wearing of the newer typo of millinery a very tricky business. These remarks also apply to tho saucer-like shapes, which look ridiculous perched on a large head, however beautifully tho hair is curled at the back. But the wide shoulders have had a great deal to do in popularising the wider hat, as an important brim seems to balance tho masses of frills which .■ire lift on a dominant note of the arms ■or shoulders of summer dresses. ' This has also brought back the fashion of tho "bridesmaid.'s hat," which has been superseded for so long by every kind of wreath, halo, or floral cap. Fashionable weddings of tho moment are especially picturesque, the flounces at the hem and shoulder, and wide, plain hats Doing ideally suited for bridal retinues. Also tho popularity of organdie and muslin give just the right spirit of youth at a very minimum cost. Cotton materials this season have triumphed over all their rivals. Whether the fashions for frills made cotto^ fashionable, or tho enchanting cotton fabrics turned the dress creators' thoughts to frills, I do not know. But the combination of the two are ideally suited, and ginghams, piques, voiles, spot muslins, and organdies have rivalled crepes and silks at every smart function this_ season. But even in summer we cannot, rely on flimsy fabrics alone, so wo have in the newest jersey materials a lovely fabric for tho useful dress or suit we had all the year round. Jersey is an admirable fabric which is constantly improving in its capacity for keeping its shape when made up, and for taking on all sorts of different appearances. Jersey weaves vary from tho smooth close typo which is almost indistinguishable from flannel or one of tho other woollens, to those which are liko tweed or fancy hand-knitting. Indeed, it almost takes an export to tell which is which. These jersey materials make excellent dress and jacket ensembles, with the jacket often' a contrasting colour or pattern. They have warmth without weight, which make them ideal for a cool flay in summer as well as for wintor wear. This v.i the first summer for many years when fur has been left out of the smart woman's wardrobe, except for tho silver fox tie which inevitably accompanies the classic tailored suit. Occasionally one sees a model coat which has fur about the elbows or the tops of the arms to add width, but no fur collars, or fur hems to coats or tunic dresses. This is a point in favour of different •dressing.;for ; at least two seasons of the year, which'should stimulate trade all oVer the world. Exactly as the roturn to straw hats has assisted the hat manufacturers, who were dying of

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neglect while women chose to wear i felt hats all the year round. Shoes, too," are showing an enormous variety of styles for warm, dry wea-tlic-r. Pale beige-browns, greys, blues, and red leathers. Also coloured poplin and linen arc being used for sandalshaped shoes with high and low heels suitable for wearing with summery cotton and chiffon frocks. Inexpensive and charming, they will roach you in time for your warm wea-

ther. The sandal shape is very popular for day and evening wear with dressy clothes. With tailored en-1 sembles tho court shoe is still first favourite. But lots of people cannot wear pumps —their feet may bo too narrow at the heel or too broad across the toe, and they need more support. Shoemakers have at last realised that strap shoes are needed for support that do not look dowdy. The- newest type have cut-outs from the sides, or insets of Teptile skin, and a fancy strap and buckle, with shaped heels, smart but comfortable to walk in. For comfort must always come first in choosing shoes or the whole outfit is ruined. • Stockings aro a little lighter. One new colour, is "Oatmeal," actually a beige with a brown tinge, which is intended to be worn with the new dark browns and brown and'beige outfits. Tor sports and summery frocks "Pepper" is tho name given to a shade that seems to be'a mixture of brown, beige, and yellow. "Grasshopper" is a subtle shade of blended grey and pink, to. wear with greys, greens, and black. Dull surfaces are still smarter than brilliant ones. And for spectator sports, fish-net lisle thread' stockings are popular—but, oh, only if your legs are slim and shapely! RUTH SIBLEY.