Paris in thed Mirror

Evening Post, Volume CXV, Issue 71, 25 March 1933, Page 21

Paris in thed Mirror

THE WAISTLINE,

PARIS, February 1

Practically every new hat, except the broad-brimmed afternoon hat, is closely fitted against tho nape of the neck in most exquisite lines, ensuring perfect .comfort when worn with the high collars that are now so njuch in fashion. Even the tiny vormillion chiffon-felt bonnets which are- being featured for youthful wearers, creep down against tho neck. These are untrimmed.and depend for their chic on tho «4tjrved sections stitched together by a machine/ One of the most pliable materials being used is satin in sixinch wide bands; this is developed in a small draped bonnet shape which fita closely to the head and covers the neck at the back and one side. Form means much this season. The new hats conform most perfectly to the hqad, in lines that are unsurpassed. At a recent millinery opening there, were some graceful turned-ofl>the-'faco hats which are cleverly devised frofa satins in the new rich burgundy and bottlegreen shades combined with matching straws of unusual, fine soft qualities.

Shirrings are being seen in quantity j to draw in the hats at tho back of the neck; shirring this season is a prominent note. i .

The colours in millinery will depend on the dressmakers' choice of materials for street ensembles. When the first new features -are summed .up, there is, a notable absence of stiffening and lining ofv the very low crown. HIGH LIGHTS IN PAKIS FASHIONS. _ During,the past six months the entire attention of designers and fashion leaders has focused itself on the top of the dress, mainly the shoulders and sleeves. This on closer inspection is, though partly accurate, just another of those superficial and sweeping statements.

Certain other points have been occupying the designers and fashionscreators every whit as much as sleeves and shoulders. These points are: The neckline arid the waistline.

It is now obvious that all the new dresses feature built-up necks. . This is a most important fact and should be stressed everywhere and whenever possible. It covers both sports wear and afternoon dresses, and blouses and dresses, of course, too. Each couturiere has a favourite way of achieving these high necks. Some sponsor scarves', others make them shorter and nattier—and in ruffled ribbon or plaid, or jersey.Sports wear is now seen buttoned down the centre-front of bodice, and a scarf is added to this. And one of the newest treatments combines a scarf, with a surplice front, achieving a double-breasted surplice-front idea. It is to be noted that the third button buttons in the centre of a natural

Oblique fastening, -very croise in effect, fastening with clips "or buttons, is a new idea, and sometimes, a scarf is combined with this idea very successfully;

The most discussed point in the fashions in Paris at the present moment is the waistline. During the last spring openings, a well-known dressmaker created a sensation by featuring a suddenly lowered . waistline . and featuring it with such emphasis that it left everyone breathless. The- next few months will show us whether this style is going to take on or not. Stout women certainly look better with a lowered waistline and they will certainly appreciate any return to this new-old style. Another new idea is the tendency to drop the waistline towards the back, leaving the front normal. Two waistlines are also being featured, the one high, the second lower than' the hips. Other houses have remained true to the Empire and Dheetoire silhouette. Direetoire lines are all very well for the slim girl, but the older, matronly type of woman finds the clinging and moulding gowns extremely trying and hard to wear. Stout women look better in fuller, straighter gowns, and do not stand fitted lines as well as their younger and slimmer sisters. The late spring openings will prove which of the two silhouettes go over. It is whispered that in a couple of seasons we shall see the low waist definitely established again. This change must, however, come gradually and remain almost imperceptible for general adoption. AMAZING SLEEVES AND BELTS. As for the.new dresses, they are not so much dresses, as excuses for the display of amazing sleeves and extraordinary belts. To make a smart frock, you take an ordinary panel or two, or something, and hang thereon a pair of gigaDtic sleeves, slashed/ or bouffant, and finish up the creation with a belt of wonderful flowers that never grew in any soil, but which are exquisitely beautiful all tlje same, and your success is assured. If you are slender, and you Wish to fresh up, say, a last year's rose-pink, leaf-green, or banana, crepe da chine or mousseline-de-soie evening frock all you have'to do is to clasp around your waist a belt of curious flowers in. faded pastel colourings, ■with a silver or goia daisy here and there, ana a green enamelled leaf, oryou can vein your leaves in aelicate eiwet j*r gold metallic threads, o* jeqrfc

Written for "The Post" by Germain*.

gold centres to your flowers. And there you ,are!

THE- COLOURS AND MATEKIALS

Tho ; new spring colours \aro already decided upon and our wardrobes will be bright with all the colours of the rainbow. Pastel shades will predominate with green, red, and yellow as the outstanding features. . The violet tones will also be much worn, there will be some wise, much rose-beige, a quantity of beige, some black, with a little dark blue. Of course, the black and white contrast with the chalkiness of its white, and tho mkiuess of its black, will bo with us-in the spring. But it "takes some wearing,"' as the eouturiero says. The right sort of figure is required, also an! immaculate complexion. I don't know about the figure, but.the complexion part need not worry anybody., Complexions are., as easily managed^abroad as at home. As for materials^ thero are some beautiful chiffons to be seen, with little rbcocco designs of rosebuds, and leaves, or large border designs of orchids or poppies. Artificial silk will bo to tho fore once more., It has.a sheen on it, such as rib mere silkworm could ever hope to produce. It calls itself satin triomphant, though it js not satin, and not exactly a.triumph of ;beauty eitlier, but it is.a triumph of- science, anyway, to have produced a silk that is much more like itsolf than the real thing. Kasha is dying. Soon it will be dead. Why, I can't imagine, for it is a lovely fabric. In any case, a new fabric, which is worked out in the same effect of colourings, in a. .woollen material, is being shown. The printed fabric in a highly coloured design, .is woven together with a plain coloured thread. The- result is a material of faded tones, like an old brocade or an old tapestry. Jersey will be immensely popular, and crepe do chine, crepo maroeain, and all the lovely crepes will • still be in the hauto mode.