London Fashion Notes

Evening Post, Volume CXIV, Issue 122, 19 November 1932, Page 9

London Fashion Notes

Specially Written for "The Pott."

LONDON, 23rd September.

Chrysanthemums and autumn, foliage In colourful masses at every street corner give, an added beauty to London during this month. Alas, like the muffin iman 'a bell and the return of the roast chestnut vendor, they are sure signs of the approach of ■winter.

The golden; days of autumn are all too short, which probably accounts for the grudging welcome we are apt to accord to winter fashions, knowing we shall have to wear them for so many weary months. * -

In Paris, ■where fashions Are a matter of ; international importance,, . three famous'dress houses have shown, three completely different 'waistlines, which looks as though they are playing for safety in these days of economic stresß.

■ One should be able to "pay ( one's money and take one's choice" as to whether we will indicate the' Empire line under the bust, the normal waist, or a line" that is'definitely on the hips.

Over here we are much more resigned having accepted the normal waistline until we see which "way the wind finally blows.

Captain'Molyneux showed the loveliest frocks I have yet seen in London, but he had no .waist line doubts. Every model had a narrow twisted or swathed sash, which could bo adjusted to the individual and which was neither high nor low. Sometimes the1 sash, tied in a little bow or was fastened with a clasp or two buttons.

Another point which, was very emphasised was the cross-over bodice. Nearly all his clothes took' on. this line, whether coats or bodices. Many of the latter .crossed right over to the under-arm, continuing in a sash round the waist. _On coats, high fur collars that stood up Tound the face continued down one front and fastened on the left'hip.

Every collection has its grey evening gown. One exquisite model in two shades of grey chiffon was simply girdled with a belt of grey pearls. The "three-quarter caped wrap of Royal blue velvet with two fox skins in pale and dark grey round the neck and front; provided a handsome contrast. Another grey dress in plain heavy crepe cut high in front, and breaking into epaulets on the shoulders which tapered off to straps down, the back to the waist,- where they -finished with, a diamond clip. Over this was worn a long circular cloak with fancy gathered shoulders, and clasped at the throat. One-corner was thrown over .the opposite shoulder, giving the effect of a Boman. toga. ■

Ostrich and cog feathers have definitely arrived as trimmings for evening dresses," and one exquisite gown made entirely in embossed chiffon, the design of which was green and white ostrich feathers on a white ground, and the whole of the deep back decolletago was' outlined by a soft flat band of "lightly curled feathers.

.Epaulets of green cog feathers gave width to the shoulders of a perfectly plain green crepe gown. Also graceful ruffles of two shades in long Lancer ostrich feathers are shown with many ■of the .evening models.

A charming suit of duck-egg blue frieze had a small collar of grey astrakhan round the back of the neck ■Which continued in long strips of frieze crossing on the chest and buttoning on each side of the belt. For variety the ends were unbuttoned, and pulled one over the other, cravat fashion, giving an entirely new twist to the coat, which was short and belted, and worn, with a duck-egg blue handcrocheted, sweater and cap.

I was pleased to notice that all the best collections show, tunic frocks. These are very attractive for simple afternoon gowns in black crepe,' with the tunic slit up at the back and. sides, .showing a pleated skirt, and the bodice with sleeves decorated by twisted lows .of drawn threadwork, and a plaited belt of black crepe.

Lingerie touches are everywhere on dark dresses, but here you must use originality, for there is nothing even about the white collars and cuffs this season.

A collar will start as a collar one side and end as a scarf, or a piece of white will- be 'inserted into the corner of a neck-line. A large single ended bow will. be placed at the low crossover with similar bows at the wrists made of grosgrain or pique. Indeed, bows seem to flutter all over the mode, and one simple brown, dress i had a tow of bows all down the front of the bodice made of reversible cord ribbon,-brown, one side and gold the other. These bows consisted of two j fringed ends caught with a knot in the middle, by which they -were lightly attached to the front of the dress with ends bent back to show the reverse side and looking like a flight of little brown and gold birds. Similar bo,ws were at the wrists and one perched on a tiny brown hat.

A handsome evening gown of deep prune velvet with 'deep V-neckline at the back and a modified V in front, had large velvet bows with drooping ends on each shoulder, reminiscent of the baby's "tie-ups" one sees in the family album.

_ For simple afternoon elegance I liked ■ a gown of burgundy flamisole (heavy plain crepe). It was1 long

and beautifully cut, with wide magyar sleeves that tapered to close-fitting below the elbow to wrists. A moderate V, quite plain at the neck, finished with a cluster of pink silk roses, which exactly matched the pale pink suede gloves.luckled. over the, arms. This was completed by a soft cap of burgundy velvet, made of folds of velvet cleverly worked but quite untrimmea. This colour combination was exquisite and flattering equally to blonde or brunette.

BUTH SIBLEY,