GODLEY GLACIERS

Evening Post, Volume CXI, Issue 98, 28 April 1931, Page 7

GODLEY GLACIERS

A NEW CLIMBMG EIELDj

UNEXPLORED PEAKS

Many of the peaks in. the vicinity; of the Godley and Classen Glaciers, in the Southern Alps, have yet to be climbed, while in many cases first ascents—many of them made"ycajs",ag9 have only been made. The glaciers and snowfields at the head of the Godley Biver, to the north-cast of the hilly range, open up an alpine region' hitherto unexplored to any extent, and one which offors remarkable opportunities to climbers, many of the snow peaks rising to heights of more _ than. 9000 feet. Beccntly a party, led by Guide Air Brustad of the Hermitage staff, consisting 'of Mr. F. W. Trott (Tckapo); Dr. W. H. Unwiu (Tiinaru), and- his brother, Mr. Sydney Unwin (Winchester), made an expedition to the glaciers and snowfields in the Godley district, the doctor and Guide Brustad subsequently crossing io the-Hermitage, via the Classen and Tasinan Saddles and the Malto Brim and Ball huts. This is not the first occasion on which this journey has been made, as the first crossing from the Godley to the Tasman was made in 1908 by Guide Peter Graham and Mr. J. R. Deiinistoun. "We were fortunate in having fine weather," said Dr. Unwin when recounting the adventures or! the party to a ncwspiipcr representative ill Tiinaru, "and consequently the trip was made under ideal conditions. There are many fine peaks at tho head'of the Godley, which provide splendid climbing, and I'm sure alpine climbers would find a trip to this particular region well worth while." Assembling at Takapo House on 16th March, the party left the following afternoon (a Tuesday) by mptor-car for the Upper Macaulay Eiver, travelling via Lilybank Station. The car was left at the homestead of Mr. E. Malthus, the journey being continued on foot, with a pack horse to carry 'tents, supplies, /and other necessary, equipment. The hut at Weka Creek was reached that night, and on the Wednesday a base camp was established on the lateral moraine of the Classen Glacier. On/Thursday tho party split, Dr. Unwiu and Guide Brustad setting out on the trip across .the Classen Saddle,- being accompanied part of the way 'by Messrs. Trott and Sydney, Unwin.. A. flying camp was pitched on the moraine some three or four miles up the glacier, and the next night (Friday) sa-w the two men camped 'at an elevation of 7291 feet on the Classen Saddle., The journey was continued the -following morning, the two men climbing , over the Tasman Saddle, and then' descending to the Malto Brun Hut. The night was'spent in the hut, the doctor and the guide proceeding on Sunday to the Ball Hut, and thence on to the Hermitage. In the meantime, Messrs., Trott and Sydney ■ Unwin had returned to Lake Tekapo. Expressing-the'view that access to the Southern Alps from the glacier region at the head of Lake Tekapo opened up a new alpine climbing field Mr. Trott instanced Mount Hutton. (0297 ft) .as a particularly 'good climb. The first ascent of this peak, he said, was made by Otto Frind, Alpine Club, Canada, in 1914. - Other fine peaks were Mounts A clanii (8294 ft) and Sydney King (8064 ft), while further in lay Mounts D'Archiac (9279 ft) and Hackel Peak (9649 ft). In the Keith Johnston Range were Mount Loughnan (8495 ft), an unclimbed peak,* an unnamed peak of 7995 ft, and Mount Livingstone (8334 ft). ."Apart from the peaks I have named," said Mr./Trott, "there are quite a number in the vicinity of 8000 ft, which so far. have not been, climbed." ' ,~. : When asked what prompted him to make the trip, Dr.- Unwia said that years ago he had read of a party having crossed- from the Godley Valley over into the country of the Murchison Glacier and down that glacier, and over the Tasman Glacier to the Ball Hut. There fore, when Mr. Fred Trott suggested, atrip to the Godley Glacier, the doctor . decided to cross to the Hermitage, via the Classen Saddle, across tho Murchison neve, and then over the Tasman Saddle. ■ '..,>> "I wish to make it quite clear," remarked tho doctor, "that the trip .can be tackled by anyone with a little experience of climbing, provided the ser- ■ vices of an experienced guide are available. Approaching the Classen Saddle we had a little difficulty, arid; finally were brought up by a shrund, which looked as if it would turn us back. 'Alf' Brustaa, however, lowered himself over a sharp edge into a crevasse below, and found a small ice bridge which "stood his weight. It.waa a difficult spot, easy enough for me when I went down, with 'AM» hotting on to the rope above, but a more danger* »ns affair for,him when I was "below and there was no one abore to support toim.'V ~ , / The view from • the . Classen mamf was magnificent, continued the doctor. Away to the left lay the Liebig Bang* • and following it round was the MurcUuon Glacier with the Mannering Glacier just visible. The whole of the MaltJ Br'un range was sharply defined, ana on the right lay the Tasman- Saddle,with Mount Aylmer on the extreme right. (