Paris in the Mirror

Evening Post, Volume CX, Issue 137, 6 December 1930, Page 19

Paris in the Mirror

Writton for "Th« Po»r fey Germalnt. I

PARIS, Sth. October. There is an extraordinary phrase which is often used in regard to fashions, and which insists that the dressmakers have "decreed" something or other. ■'■■.- ..It is nothing but a relic, of course,,of the bad old times, when.women blindly followed. certain styles, whether these happened to suit- them or not, and when few thought' of showing personality in clothes; it • followed, naturally, that those who did, were considered, as outstanding figures."-. . .' In other words, where the majority of women .use their' intelligence now, a very ■ select i few. used it, then,' so that when the mass were told that this type of, -hat,' or .. ttiat .-kind-of coat, was "being, worn," they bought-the hat or the coat and wore it,' although the result may haye1 been devastating. It seems to mo that the time has come—in fact ,it is overdue —for women to realise that, the dressmakers have no power to "decree" anything, uor do they, want it. In fact, there is no meaning in the wordused'in such a. connection. On the' other hand, the . designers are always' ready to. suggest ideas, the majority of which they assemble and show in tho big yearly collections. Do not lotus forget-that nothing can stop the march of progress,-or in this case, fashion, and that the designers are merely interpreters of something which is influenced by. our, daily life, our! social habits, and even.our thoughts. THE MOST IMPORTANT THINS. ' Fashion arbiters have been.forced to devise some ; means of bridging the gap between' their formal openings. In .the"first place, they must gradually'lead up'to the new-styles they present every three ■ months;' and, again, they- must- have sufficient turnover of models in stock, to. wa.rr.ant .their existence. ' . The uiost important thing is to try out new ideas on the wearing femininei .One week forecasts groundsweeping, evening.go^vns, uneven in hemline. , The next week' this has been modified to ■ even hemlines. Later the powers that be compromise on anklelength dressas, because their first attempts were too exaggerated for practical wear. So we find in Paris a fortnightly, even a weekly, evolution of the styles. Accessories undergo the same changes, although [these latter, are mor-'sweeping'in effectl , ' . . This, transitional "stage -is. most interesting .during the autumn • and winter seasons. Hot weather; fabrics won't lend 'themselves' to the same lines, as autumn and winter materials. One

can be pretty certain.as to colour skirt and coat-lengths for autumn months, but when it comes to linking up these things with what we shall probably wear, this winter a real problem presents itself. THE SILHOUETTE GROWING MOBE BELL-LIKE. The silhouette is growing more belllike, iskirta being fitted only to. tho hips, from which: point they;grow full to their hems, which are apt- to stop about ten inches from the floor. There is, by the way, a 'distinct effort to unify day and evening hemlines—the former-growing somewhat longer, and the latter shorter. A number of dressmakers in. Paris still conserve the long,

fitted hipline, with low fullness adding to the effect of height, doubtless because they know that.it can be successfully worn by women with fuller figures. Other dressmakers of importance have almost entirely renounced swathed effects, and their mannequins aro uncorseted, which fact will rejoice the disciples of feminine freedom. However, frocku are being made ,on both lines, and the general conclusion is, that women may wear whatever stylo is most becoming. Much of the interest

in the new costumes resides in - their sleeves. Cape sleeves are still -with us, but- in. changed .forms. Long cape sleeves that have tight inner sleeves are seen on tweed' and more formal coats. •; FROCKS OF SIMPLE ELEGANCE. 'Some afternoon frocks seen at the autumn. openings are of simple ele: gance, and made on princess lines, without the usual belt; they are slight* ly wrapped in effect with a movement towards the front. A pale pumpkinyellow crepe de chine afternoon frock, worn with a matching kasha coat, was very smart; it tied in the centre-front with long drapery ends. Some of these new frocks have circular flounces' mounted vertically or diagonally, .and in cascades of all sorts, These flounces usually trim crepe or chiffon afternoon frocks, and are very smart indeed. Not seen before are the attached blouses which may take the place of the tucked-in blouse; two sorts are already being- shown. They extend down iv points or scallops below the waistline, giving the effect of a blouse and a skirt yoke; all the skirt material js carried upward, producing a short-waisted effect. . Both of these attached blouses are neatly belted in, and' both are of contrasting material and.colour. They are usually lighter in tone than their skirts, and their material is often crepe de chine, when the skirt is woollen like the coat. A TEW REMARKS CONCERNING THE MODES. Stockings are as fine as usual, chiefly because it is impossible to make them any thinner. ■ , . ■ When kid gloves are worn it is noticeable'that they are usually white, and at least.one, size too large, which makes thenr more elegant, and heaps more comfortable. Bags of felt to match the hat of felt or of velvet look seasonable and smart, and are more fashionable than those of leather. The Paris elegante does not wear much make-up. It is much more fashionable not to make-up at present, and it gives the skin a chance to breathe. She curls her longish hair less, too! A wave or two near the end and curls at the ends are quite enough for smartness and much simpler. Necklaces are being less worn by fashionable women, who are now wearing a jewelled pin, a flower, or a chiffon scarf instead. Handkerchiefs of. finest linen and super-man size are fashionable for all daytime affairs, and they can be chosen in any colour, including black. At night the hank is, of course, in chiffon alone, or chiffon with lace.