HOSIERY CITY

Evening Post, Volume CXII, Issue 59, 7 September 1926, Page 21

HOSIERY CITY

I ANCIENT LEICESTER. f } ITS MODERN INDUSTRY. [ I FINE KNITTED WEAR. j

(By Mr. Thomas Morley, of Thomas Morley & Sons, Leicester.)

Leicester is a very ancient city, situated ni:arly in the centre of England, and is often termed the "Queen of the Midlands." It is said to have been founded 700 years B.C. by King Lear. Specimens of various objects have been discovered in and around the city, proving that centuries before the Roman invasion the inhabitants had learned to cultivate the soil and to organise themselevs for defence or attack, and that they also exhibited skill and imagination in the things they fashioned. When the Eomans invaded England and penetrated from the southern parts of the island into the unexplored interior, they discovered a native Celtic settlement living in strawroofed huts, whose half-savage inhabitants, with their blue-stained bodies and rude garments of skins, planted the germs of modern Leicester in making their homes on the banks of the River Soar. From about 50 A.D. to the fifth

century Leicester was in the hands of the Eomans. Some remarkable specimens of tessellated pavements may be seen in their original positions, especially cne beneath the Great Central Railway Station. About the ninth century Leicester was a Danish city, the Danes having conquered the city, wantonly destroying many of the Roman buildings, and much of the Roman wall which at one time surrounded the city. About 1068 A.D., after the Norman Conquest, out of a population of three thousand only sixty-four heads of families survived.

TWELFTH CENTURY HOME-SPUN.

From early times each household spun and wove its own simple clothing. Even in the twelfth century we read of transactions in wool taking place in the city, and although centuries have passed, the most prominent industry in Leicester has been to do_ with wool. In the year 1589 A.D. William Lee invented' a machine for knitting stockings. At this time Lee lived near Nottingham. His invention was such an enormous advance on hand knitting that the development of the hosiery trade in Nottinghamshire and Leicestershire dates from this time. This development has. continued to the present day, and Leicester now takes the lead throughout the world as the largest hosiery centre. It is, in consequence, one of the largest users of New Zealand wool, the city being now equipped with targe spinning mills, hosiery factories, knitting mills, in addition to the other subsidiary trades of dye works and finishers. It can claim to be the only city able to convert raw wool into finished garments, ready to wear, every process being done in the city.

BEAUTIFUL FABRICS,

Originally the hosiery trade, as its name implies, was concerned only with the manufacture of hose, but gradually the value of the elasticity of knitted material was recognised for other purposes. Underwear very early had established itself as another branch of the industry, and is to-day one of its largest sections. The development of underwear has been almost phenomenal in the past thirty years, and with the introduction of artificial silk and pure silk, used chiefly in conjunction with wool and cotton, mar-

vellous dainty and comfortable garments are procurable by all classes, at reasonable prices. In hose, half-hose, and children's socks tho same wonderful improvements have been effected. Whereas a comparatively short time ago strong and coarse knit hose were tho major productions, and fine goods were looked upon as almost a luxury, to-day modern methods produce fine silk, artificial silk, and wool goods, beautifully made and patterned, within the reach of everyone's purse. Men's, women's, and' children's goods have all benefited equally, and no excuse can be offered by anyone for not being well stockinged. During the past few years a new industry has been added to the hosiery trade.This new branch, known as the knitting industry, is really a development of the old fancy hosiery departments, which up to the war catered chiefly for children. The ingenuity of the manufacturers in producing beautiful knitted fabrics,- coupled with their designers' and workpeople's skill and dexterity in making up. has caused a most extraordinary demand ' for knitted clothing of all descriptions. To-day, almost every man and woman throughout the world is conversant withknitted clothing. Originally made for sports wear, the comfort and elasticity, coupled with a smart appearance, caused a demand for knit wear for all purposes. Ladies' robes, costumes, cardigans, and jumpers, children's dresses and outfits, boys' suits and jerseys, men's pullovers and cardigans, are a few of the garments handled by the knitting industry, and without any doubt, a continued demand is certainly due to the sheer merit of Leicester productions. Before leaving the hosiery trade, further tiibute must be paid to Leicester workers. Generation after generation has been born and cradled in the industry, and no city in the world can boast equal craftsmanship. Throughout the world they are known and recognised, and New Zealand wool converted by Leicester factories can take its place amongst the world's choicest textiles. There are no fewer than seventy firms in Leicester who export their productions to New Zealand, forty of whom belong to the hosiery, underwear, ,and knitted industry.

HIGH-CLASS FOOTWEAR.

Leicester also ranks high in the industrial world by reason of the manufacture of boots and shoes. Indeed, there are some who, with pardonable partiality, speak of it as the most important business in the city. Be that as it may, Leicester has a fairly large export trade with New Zealand in footwear, and has had for many years. This trade is mainly in medium and better-class qualities. It was very good before the war, and although it ha'a not reached the figure of that time, it is growing. During the war America was able to get hold of the trade, but Leicester is gradually getting' it back. Leicester also does a considerable business with New Zealand in boys' and girls' boots and shoes, and canvas and sports footwear. There is little doubt but that "a good understanding" (i.e., well shod and stockinged) in New Zealand means Leicester. As a natural corollary, the hosiery machine building and boot machinery trades are an important item in Leicester's industrial efforts, and many large works throughout the world, including New Zealand, are indebted for their equipment to Leicester engineers. Wool and worsted spinners possess huge mills in this city, and a good export business is carried on with the Dominions. Elastic webs and optical instruments are two other industries for which Leicester is world famous, and with such a splendid variety of sound and solid trades represented within its boundaries, there is little wonder that we are looked upon as one of the most fortunate towns throughout England.

NEW ZEALAND'S CUSTOMER

The facilities given by New Zealand to encourage our trade relations are much appreciated by Leicester exporters. There is always such a friendly spirit expressed that in all business transacted with New Zealanders they are noted for a square deal, and honourably adhere to the ■ conditions of their orders or contracts, and this good character cannot be given to all countries to which the exporters of Leicester send their goods. It cannot be too strongly emphasised that Leicester desires, and needs, the New Zealand market for her productions, and probably no other city in the world can reciprocate to a better extent by taking at least an equal quantity of New Zealand productions in wool, hides, mutton, farm produce, etc. In a civic sense, too, Leicester is a highly-favoured city. Within recent years its ancient dignity of city has been restored to it, and it is perfectly true to say that, its people regard themselves as citizens of no mean city. It is a sign of the thoughtfulness of its people that its political representation in Parliament has varied so much. The City Council gives its support to all movements which make for the welfare of the people at large, and it is symptomatic of its thought that it has given a lead to the whole country in matters of health improvement, though this fact may not come as a surprise when it is considered to be probably the cleanest industrial centre in the country. Its two greatest problems are housing and traffic congestion. In regard to providing homes for its people, the Housing Committee has bfien unremitting in its labour to push on with the erection of houses. Huge estates have been acquired by the corporation on a very large scale, and there are now springing up suburbs of new dwellings which are bigger than some of the villages of the county. Closely linked with the well thought-out housing plan is a, street improvement scheme, which when completed, will make of Leicester a city that will meet fastidious demands, and will provide the main solution ip the traffic problem. It has to be admitted that the City Fathers of the past generations were not able to see the needs of the distant future, and because of that Leicester is suffering from the fact that many of its important thoroughfares which converge upon the centre of the city are far too narrow. Leicester's geographical position is such that traffic going north and south passes through it to a very great extent, not. only by rail but by road. The new scheme of street widening is bold, and will ensure for Leicester for many years to come, a continuance of this traffic and" also eventually develop it into one of the finest commercial cities pf the Empire.,