CLOTHING DESIGN

Dominion, Volume 36, Issue 31, 31 October 1942, Page 8

CLOTHING DESIGN

Control Seen As On Whole Sensible BESPOKE TAILOR CRITICAL While it is not clear to everybody in the clothing trade how some of the restrictions on the design of garments will save material or labour, particularly in men’s suite, made to order, the regulations gazetted this week are regarded as sensible on the whole. .Many of the prohibitions will not limit the size and composition of garments furthen than they are already limited by other effects of the war.

It was pointed out by a draper yesterday that the regulations would not make skirts shorter than fashion already dictated. The hem measurement would be limited to that of the currently fashionable walking skirt, and that, even without the prohibition of tlie manufacture of full-length skirts and evening gowns, would prohibit the sale of tlie evening gowns Avith voluminous skirts using up to eight yards of material, most of it 'below the waist In any case, materials suitable for Sucli frocks were not being imported. The prohibition of the manufacture of bridge coats, dinner frocks, evening frocks and playsuits would sweep aside a large portion of the trade, he said, but those articles were really luxuries, and that Avomeu should- be asked to do without them in wartime was not surprising. The regulations would divert business from the factories making garments for sale to the drapers, for women would themselves make what they could not buy ready made.

The making of shirts without reinforced necks seemed a false economy, he said, becaiwe a shirt with a reinforced neck wore longer than one without that addition, arid when a shirt wore out at the neckband it was simply' mended. A prominent tailor said that though be apparently would have to comply with the regulations the changes in the suite he made would not save any material. A suit length of material was used whether a large suit or a spiall suit was made from it. The difference would ‘be that instead of one handful of scraps going into the waste basket when a suit was cut two handfuls would go into it. In the factories making suite ready-to-wear there would be a saving, more in labour than in material. There suits were cut from bolts of material; and the suits all being tlie same, the patterns could be arranged on them with care so as to economize material. The limitation in the number of .pockets would save considerable material and labour.