GARDEN NOTES

Dominion, Volume 32, Issue 153, 24 March 1939, Page 16

GARDEN NOTES

By

“The Hoe."

A ROCK GARDEN GEM Oxalis Lobata Is Worth Trying Oxalis lobata has just flowered for the first time in my rock garden. It is a true dwarf, the stems being 'only three inches long, and they carry heads of dazzling buttercup-yellow of striking intensity. The colour is uniform in its richness and the little flowers look from a distance like flakes of gold. This oxalis does not share the spreading habit for which its family is notorious. Being well-behaved, it is therefore a welcome addition to the list of really dwarf bulbs for rock-garden purposes. FLOWERING BROOMS Easy-To-Grow Shrubs Brooms are among the most beautiful shrubs going. In all parts of the country they succeed wonderfully. In many gardens they produce seed freely. From the seedlings you can plant hedges and fill banks at no cost. We need not say how beautiful the sweet-pea-like flowers are, while the shrubs, when not in bloom, with their litheness and grace are objects of inimitable charm. Here are a few of the loveliest varieties: Lady Moore (yellow, pink and orange), Daisy Hill (pale yellow), Lord Lambourne (yellow, pink and maroon), and Andreanus (crimson and yellow). These varieties flower in October. We mustn’t forget the old pale yellow praecox and its white variety alba, which are a mass of bloom in September.

The merest sprinkling of stable manure is suflicient when preparing the soil. When massed, the brooms are planted sft. apart.

PLANTING TREES AND SHRUBS Little Points That Ensure Success Neither evergreen nor flowering shrubs like transplanting. Release them from the nurseryman’s package quickly, therefore, and soak the roots in water for ten minutes to replace the sap lost during transit. Do your best to have all clear for planting when the shrubs arrive, but if you cannot quite manage it, or the weather is unsuitable, heel theiii in temporarily in a reserve border till you are ready. But first-examine the roots carefully, cutting damaged ones off immediately above the seat of injury. Prepare the soil thoroughly, breaking down the lumps and thus securing a texture in which healthy root action is encouraged. Make each planting hole with a spade and see that it Is wide enough to receive the evenly spread-out roots quite comfortably. Make the bottom of the hole the shape of an inverted saucer, so that wlnen the roots are in position their tips take a downward course. The depth of planting is governed by the soil ring, a dark mark to be found toward the base of each main stem. The shrubs were planted at this depth in the nursery. Plant them at a similar depth now. - Use fine soil for filling in, work it well among the roots, and having covered them, press each complement firmly with the foot.

LILY-OF-THE-VALLEY

Time To Prepare Soil A lily-of-the-valley bed is one of the greatest joys of the garden. The delightful fragrant plants suggest cool woods filled with the gaiety of spring, and: in a wild state the lily-of-the-valley is, indeed, found where the sunlight is filtered by a tracery of boughs. Here, then, is some indication of the conditions required in cultivation —a cool soil and a partially-shaded position. Lilies-of-the-valley grow remarkably well in the shade of fruit trees, or on a north border, but, at the same time, they will thrive in full sun if the soil is deep and cool. The plants grow so closely together and produce such a mass of hearty leaves, that they shade their own soil and keep it in a cool and moist condition.

One other valuable tip is to choose, if possible, a position with a somewhat restricted root run. The plants will often flower more freely if their roots are not allowed to ramble too far.

The plants greatly dislike disturbance and may occupy one site for several years, so it is necessary to prepare and enrich the ground well. Dig deeply and, as digging proceeds, break up the soil moderately fine—the plants will not root in a hollow, lumpy soil.

Incorporate plenty of well-decayed manure, good leafmould and some grit or .sand to prevent soil stagnation. It is as well to prepare Ihe ground a week or so in advance of planting. Then it will have time to settle down and to attain the close, firm comjition which is so essential to free rooting.

April is the ideal time to plant, for the plants then become established before winter and will produce a nice crop of flowers in the first season. Perhaps an old and exhausted bed has to be taken tip and the matted clumps divided. Pull them apart into strong pieces, each with three or four buds.

These buds are easily recognized because, though the same colour as the roots, they are round and fill ami each is situated at Hie extremity of an underground stem or root.

The best way to plant is Io prepare some drills, Gin. apart, with the aid of a taut line and a spade, and to lav the roots close together in tiie.se and cover with about 2in. of soil. Tread the soil firmly about Hie roots and. when plnnling is completed, give Hie bed a innlcli of well-decayed leafmould or old manure- material from an old hotbed is excellent for the pur/.se.

The fragrant and welcome lily-of-Ihe-valley is Hie ideal flower for shady beds, and now is Die lime Io plant. Gladioli may be lifted for storing when the leaves have turned yellow. Dahlias will continue to bloom if the dead blooms are picked off. « o • Cuttings should be taken of pentKtenmn. catmint, viola. evergreen shrubs and summer bedding-plants. A cold frame is the best place for them.