GENEVA

Dominion, Volume 15, Issue 80, 28 December 1921, Page 9

GENEVA

THE HOME OF THE LEAGUE OF NATIONS CITY WITH A REMARKABLE HISTORY. On December 11, every year, the citizens of Geneva take part in an interesting religious ceremony. They assemble in the cathedral and sing the 124th Psalm. Just to save you the trouble of turning it up, it is the ono beginning: "If it had not been the Lord who was on our side." They have repeated this ceremony on this date for 320 years. And for this reason. In 1602 their traditional enemy, the Count of Savoy, decided to seize the city with the help of 18,000 men. The citizens numbered 2000. but by a combination of courage and good fortune, the Count was defeated. In their excitement the Genevese crowded into the cathedral and there their leader, an old man of 83 bade them sing that psalm as an expression of gratitude for deliverance. And their descendants have done it on every anniversary since. It is a queer old city, Geneva, writes "A Traveller" in the Melbourne "Age." It lias often figured in history, and it has been very conspicuous recently as the chosen headquarters of the League of Nations. That circumstance will cause the world’s interest io centre in the city more than ever in future. .Geneva stands at the south-west corner of Switzerland, near the lake that shares Its name. The river Rhone divides it, and seven bridges reconnect it. Geographically its position is unique. Every road does not lead to Rome more surely than to Geneva. The city has been the rendezvous of Europe for centuries. It dates back beyond the Christian era. On their northward march the Romans seized it; Caesar’e famous commentaries refer to it. It was subsequently part of Charlemagne’s mighty kingdom. But when it split up into three. Franco was the left hand portion, German the right hand portion, and for 1000 years they fought each other for the middle portion in the centre of which was Geneva. Inevitably firoceedings in and around the city were ively. But in the. bays of the Holy Roman Empire, when Emperor struggled, with Pope, the mediaeval cities grew powerful. Their help was often sought by one side or another, and was given in exchange for civic privileges and charters. Of these Geneva secured its share. Ever since, Geneva’s civio record has been highly creditable, its importance in Europe has been most remarkable. And it has not been on account of its size; its population is little over 100,060. But it is impossible to judge cities, any more than persons, by their size. At the height of her glory even Athens never had more than 50,000 free men. And Geneva is not the greatest city either in dignity or numbers within Switzerland’s borders. Berne is the capital, and Zurich is numerically greater. But probably no city of Geneva’s size has had bo many famous people associated with it as natives or residents. Certain names inevitably suggest Geneva; John Calvin’s, for instance. So strong was his influence on its history, Geneva has been named, and not inappropriately, “the Rome of Protestantism.” Yet Calvin’s connection with Geneva was duo to the merest accident. As a young French philosopher he was on his way to Strassburg. Striking the city at nightfall, he decided to put up there till morning. His presence, however, became known •to u man named. William Farel. Farel was an extraordinary character. Ho was a sort of sixteenth century Billy Sunday, impetuous by nature and aflame with religious zeal. It was largely due to his passionate exhortations that Geneva adopted the principles of the Reformation. He ferreted out the young Frenchman and persuaded him that it was his duty to remain in Geneva and to organise it into a theocratic State. Calvin censented, and together_ they tried it. The attempt ended m the Genevese giving the two of them three

davs in which to clear out. Some years later Calvin was recalled, and within a few weeks, he was seeking the ’ realisation of his old dream. He secured the formation of a council with power to supervise other people's morals. Every person without exception was liable to be called to account for the slightest word. The council presenbed religious faith, and eat in judgment on private conduct. Calvin, of course, was the council, and the one. thing he could not suffer was contradiction. To oppose him meant severe punishment, and oven death. By these means he laid the foundation of a Government which in its impertinent interference with the community's actions has never been paralleled. John Calvin is long since dead, but his spirit, like John Browns soul, goes marching on. To Calvin's credit it has to be admitted that he found Geneva a social and moral bear garden, and that he made, it into a docile school of piety. High tribute was paid to his work by another reformer, not unlike him in character, John Knox, of Scotland. He was glad to make Geneva his city of refuge when England became too hot to hold him. Describing it as he saw it, he says: • "It is a place which I am neither afraid nor ashamed to say is the most perfect school of Christ that ever was on earth since the days of the Apostles.” Other times brought not, only other mnnnus but also other men, to Geneva. Two centuries after Calvin there was born a baby boy of vastly different moral fibre. At No. 40 Grand Rue, Geneva, still stands the house in which Jean-Jacques Rousseau was born. Probably no contrast could bo more striking than the life records of the two men. The one sought to set up a State, governed In its most intimate details by the laws of God; the other sowed the seed which ripened into the French Revolution.

To his birthplace Rousseau returned in later life after many wanderings, and in the year of his return Voltaire, exiled from the court of Frederick the Great, also took up residence in the city. These two men of genius now rest peacefully together, in the Pantheon at Paris. But they quarrelled most violently while they lived together in Geneva. Between Voltaire’s cynicism and Rousseau’s vituperation the Genevese were provided with a vast amount of amusement.

4. little over 100 years ago a’party of three stepped out of a travelling coach into the streets of Geneva. They were T.ord Byron, Sihcllcy and Mrs. Shelley. For three joyous months they lived in and about the city: Shelley particularly was full of gaiety. "I feel as happy as a new-fledged bird,” he said. "I hardly care what twig I fly to so that 1 may try my new-found wings.” By the lakeside stands the prison of Chillon, made famous by Lord Byron's poem. The original prisoner,—Bonivard, a Genevan — was confined for six years, four of them in a dungeon beneath the level of the lake, and was so chained to, a pillar that he could take only three steps to and fro.

But, apart from the lustre exiles and tourists have conferred, there are incidents in Geneva’s story that she may justly recall with pride. In modern days the city has been the focus point of many world movements which sought to give expression to a humanitarian,spirit. And with no spot in Europe could that spirit bo more fittingly associated. In the years when religious persecutions sent men and women fleeing over the face of Europe, Geneva was the chosen haven of many. And when tho Massacre of St. Bartholomew mode Paris a shambles, thousands of intended victims turned in the same direction instinctively. When the news of the butchery reached Geneva it instantly dispatched its pastors to- the frontiers to meet any fugitives. Two thousand three hundred of them were received, and Geneva shared with them all that she had. They were fed and housed in a city which had at that time i

only 1206 householders of its own. In much more recent times Geneva has been performing services not dissimilar. During tho war years it was crowded by refugees; and thousand of interned soldiers were fed and housed by the Government at contract prices, the country to which each soldier belonged reimbursing the payment. The Genova Convention is a familiar and often quoted phrase. It is essentially an intimation that tho International Red Cross League had its birth in the ancient city. It has been the scene _of two conventions appointed to deal with tho problems of giving aid to the wounded and non-combatants in war. At the convention of 1906 tho representatives of 35 nations assembled and agreed upon tho articles under which the Red Cross Operates. And now men and women in every country are still clinging to the hope that in a city so rich in peace-making memories the League or Nations will find an atmosphere favourable to its beneficent purposesIn tho old'city’s appearance alone there are suggestions of peace. It is set amid scenes of great natural beauty. Ino blue waters of tho lako spread out placidly from its side, the splendour of snow-capped Mt. Blanc glooms radiantly in the distance. In 1873 Duke Charles II of Brunswick died and left 26,660,006 francs to improve and embellish the city. With his intimate knowledge of all the “show’’ places of Europe John Ruskin might reasonably bo accepted ns an authority. And his verdict was, The most lovely spot end the most notable, without any possible dispute, of the European universe.’* In beautiful, spacious grounds some five miles from the city the League of Nations has its permanent home. The world is still suspending its judgment as to whether that league is to be one of humanity’s greatest triumphs or ghastliest failures. The future alone can show. But, whether triumph or failure, there must for ever be associated with it the familiar name of Geneva. ' . 1