MOUNT EVEREST

Dominion, Volume 14, Issue 166, 9 April 1921, Page 3

MOUNT EVEREST

HOW THE ASCENT IS TO BE PLANNED

SEVERAL EXPEDITIONS MAY BE NECESSARY

The expedition to Mount Everest the highest mountain in the world—is to be planned on the model of the Duke of the Abruzzi's expedition to the eecond highest mountain, and known to alpine climbers a® K2. The adventure of thio distinguished mountaineer is held to be a model from practically every point ot view. In the matter of the height he reached, the scientific observations he made, and his way of dealing with the native®, ho gave a lead which will be invaluable to the Royal Geographical Society and the Alpine Club in this the most important exploring expedition they are jointly organising—the Geogiaphical Society being responsible for the scientific side and the Alpine Club members for the actual ascent.A

The Proposed Route. The proposal is to cross into Tibet to Kampa Dzong, and then proceed by• way of the Tingri Maidan to the north of the Everest group, and from hereit make an attempt to climb the mounta n by the northern slopes. This routei ha been shown to be most convenient, sine, it is hoped to establish a base as high as possible and as near as possible to Everest itself, and that the campto be replete with every mountaineering 'comfort. The intention is to a thorough reconnaissance of the uppe Tingri Maidan, and of the country s rounding the northern slopes ot in. mountain. The upper course of the Arun River must be crossed, am.■ whole outfit and mam tose establ shed as near the great mountain * s possible. The Mount Everest <'o™™:'toe has also to organise tr^P®’ 1 ’’ of men and animals, and it is ho J’ train a team of porters for the exploration of the upper snows. In some ways tho country is ‘ .. ■ Brigadier-General Bruce (who k o • Himalayas well) to enjoy a great ad a - fage in that it is in all too difficult for yaks. By their help it is honed to carry the mam camp, from the main camp to h<gher ono . to over 20.000 ft., from which point th. ascent will depend entirely ot. men Th task of the expedition is to P«t eamp higher than the highest al,e " c - hn( . cd bv unladen men, and to ■ ot:1 . the climbing party is *t ’ffie top form at these camps. Kot ~ ' fhe the expedition committei- will tn greatest care to have adequate <. - power, well clothed, fed. and trained.

Exploring the Unknown. One of the most important ' tasks for the reconnoitring party to undertake will be to find the easiest way from Kampa Dzong and over the Tingri to f oot o Mount Everest. At nothing is known about Mount Na white man has been within 10 or .0 miles of it, and all the district round it reconnoitring, wRh° f the h of - there, will be a comptotely eq u* climbing party, but so great ■' H ficutties to to wi’ll have Io be sent before the top of Evefest is reached. Why Climb the Mountain?

i vin'r on the piano, or writ.ng a pot i. P Painting a picture The. geologist predicts to a certainty that no gold mil to found on the summit, and it gold dnl ex ist there- no one would be able to woik if CUmbing Mount Everest Will no put a pound into anyone s pocket. U will take a good many P? unds A 1 1 Jennie's nockei s. It will also entail the expenditure of much time and necessitate the most careful forethought and planning on the part of those who arc organising the will moan that who c»uij . have to keep themselves at the very h:ghpst nitch of physical fitness, mental aleit neJ and moral courage and endurance They will have to be prepared to undergo the severest 'hardships and run considergood '» '.""J”', Everest. The accomplishment of such feat will elevate the human spirit It will give men —and especially we g graptors-a feeling that we are really netting the upper hand on the earth, that we are acquiring a true mastery of our surroundings. If a man stands o earth’s highest summit he will have »)i inere'ued pride and confidence in numelf in his struggle for ascendancy over matter. This i? the incalculable good which Hie ascent of Mounit Everest will confer.”