GARDEN NOTES

Dominion, Volume 14, Issue 101, 22 January 1921, Page 12

GARDEN NOTES

(By

"Kowhai.”)

IMPROVING DRY GARDENS. During December and the early part of this month wo realised the necessity for having the soil in our gardens bo prepared that plants are able to thrive in spite of continued dry weather. During those weeks many plants suffered considerably even in the best parts of the garden, while those in the naturally dry border in very many cases gave up the struggle altogether. It is amazing how some plants are ifble to cling to life, and, though apparently dead, will immediately spring to life after the first good rain, and continue to grow vigorously as long as the soil remains at all damp. In nearly every garden there is the dry border, which produces, to the despair of the amateur gardener, stunted unhappy-looking plants. As a rule it is on the dry side of the house, or under the shelter of a hedge or trees. But wherever it is, it is apt to spoil the general effect of the garden. By careful preparation of the soil, and by a judicious choice of plants, even the dry border can be made attractive. . In preparing the soil ordinary deep digging, is quite inadequate. Mark off a \strip3 of the garden, lift the 'top soil, and set’ it aside. The subsoil should then be deeply dug, and should have thoroughly mixed with it a good quantity of well-rotted stable manure or decayed vegetation. Having done thia, thoroughly saturate the subsoil with water. The top soil from the next strip may then be thrown on to the well-worked subsoil of the first strip. Proceed to dig, add decayed manure or vegetation to. and water the subsoil of the second strip, which will then be covered with the top soil from the third strip. So on to the end of the garden, when the subsoil of the last strip will be covered with the top soil from the first. The subsoil so treated will provide a good rooting .place for suitable plants for a very long time. Some hours before the plants are put in, the dry border should be thoroughly watered. If this is done in the evening, the following day it is only necessary to hoe over the ground, and it is then in splendid condition for the reception of plants. Fork a little bonedust into the bottom of each hole as the plants are put in. spread out the roots nicely, cover them very firmly with fine soil, and shade the plants from hot sun till they are established. Once the plants are settled m their new home the surface soil must be kept loose and fine by constant hoeing. The addition of a good mulch from time to time is also a hig help to the plants. The following plants may be grown with success in a sunny dry border so prepared: — For the Spring.—Narcissi, mignonette, scilla, polyanthus primroses, wallflowers, aquilegias, freesias, anemones, and Virginian £tock. For the Summer.—Antirrhinums, pentstemons, poppies, begonias. geraniums, pelargoniums, heliotrope (with an. annual mulch of half-rotted stable manure), petunias, mignonette, portulaca. mesembryanthemum. gypsophila, zinnias, gaillardias, coreopsis, nemesia, godeties, gaura lindheimeri. phlox, drummondii, and' flowering verbena. For the Autumn.—Zinnias, rudbeckias, mignonette, lobelia, perennial sunflowers, Michaelmas daisies, phlox, antirrhinums, shaota daisies, belladonna lilies (if wellrotted stable manure and sand are added to the top soil as well as to the subsoil), alstralmerias (if well mulched). The shady dry border is a little more difficult to manage, but with care it can bo kept attractive. Narcissi, scilla, aquilegias, Iceland poppies, primroses, and agathea will do well in the spring and early summer. Later, a charming effect can be achieved with begonias alone. Or the -bed may be filled with nicotiana afilnis, sweet scabious, double-pink godetias, Iceland poppies, and summer-flowering gladioli. Pansies will do well if the soil is richly manured, and if a good mulch and occasional good waterings are provided as soon as the plants are established. In the autumn Japanese anemones will make a good' display. Among flowering shrubs hydrangeas are suitable for a dry shady border if attention is paid to mulching during spring, summer, and autumn. By growing certain plants in tubs and kerosene tins one can always improve the hopelessly dry border. The tubs may be kept in a sunny part of the garden till the plants are at their best, when they can be moved to fill in gaps in the dry shady garden. As they begin to go off they may be put back into the sunny fcart of the garden again, and others can take their place in the shady one. Geraniums, heliotrope, lobelia, mignonette. chrysanthemums. hydrangeas. hardy ferns, arums, and many ether plants are suitable for this treatment. A rock garden planted with ferns, begonias, primroses, cyclamen, scilla, forget-me-not, and other shade-loving plants is o. favourite scheme for a dry ■ shady border. It has this advantage, too, that one can often grow successfully, in the pockets among the stones, plants that would not flourish in the ordinary garden bed. SOWING SEEDS. At the time of writing the soil has had a thorough soaking, and is now in splendid condition for the reception of seeds. for it is moist and warm. Seeds of antirrhinums, stocks, sweet Williams, wallflowers, primroses, carnations. scabious. pentstemons, Canterbury bells, gypsophila. delphiniums, etc., and hardy annuals may be sown now. Choose a semishaded part of the garden, dig in plenty of well-decayed vegetable rubbish if possible, and then make • the surface soil firm. Be careful to make a very thin sowing of seed. After the. «eeds are sown, cover up the seed bed with manuka brush or some such material. This shades the bed from the sun. and helps to keep the soil damp, hut at the first, appearance of the seedlings it must be removed. VEGETABLES. CARROTS. Now that the soil is thoroughly moist again a small sowing of carrots may be made. The ground from which onions, or peas, have been taken would do splendidly for this sowing. After sowing the seed spread some dry sweet pea haulm over the rows to keep the soil damn. Most gardeners have a supply of sweet pea haulm at present, and it is most useful for spreading oyer seed beds. WINTER GREENS. Winter greens—savoys, Brussels sprouts, cabbage, broccoli, etc. —may still be planted out between the rows of late potatoes, or in ground that has become vacant. Plant if possible just before rain, but should the weather bo dry when the seedlings are ready, puddle them in. If they are being planted in ground that was well manured in the winter, no more manure is necessary, but the’ soil tUiould be well forked over, and then made firm again by treading upon it. When planting. the soil should be made very firm about the roots, and a good watering should be given. If kerosene tins are cut in half and inverted over newlyplanted seedlings, they will shade them from the gun, and help, to keep the soil moist till the plants make a. start. If the plants are oeing put out on a piece of unoccupied ground, it is a good plan at this time of the year to plant them in shallow trenches. When th* plants are being watered the water can be confined to the trenches instead of being spread all over the ground. As soon as the dry weather is over the plants can be earthed up. Garden Notes next week will contain seasonable notes about Propagating carnations, routine work, and