CLOTHES OF TO-DAY

Dominion, Volume 12, Issue 271, 12 August 1919, Page 4

CLOTHES OF TO-DAY

COMFORT SHOULD COME BEFORE FASHION. Loose collars are conducive to good tempers ana good complexions and 'good health! was the emphatic affirmative of a lady well blown in the medical and nursing worlds at present engaged on administrative work for a big public body when asked if she agreed witli the statement of Mr. Leonard Hill that lownecked blouses make women sweet-tem-pered, while high collars have a contrary effect. "There is 110 doubt of the truth of that much-quoted remark. People who always wear high, tight collars, whether men or women, are pretty certain to become bad-tempered and to suffer from headaches and various ailments of tile nervous order, especially headaches. Indeed, it is a common thins for Bume physicians to cure folk of tho latter simply by putting their finger between the patient's neck and collar. But the collar 'point is only 0110 way in which people fail to apply everyday commonsense to tho things they wear; as a general rule, there is no attempt to avoid the restrictions hud constrictions which fashion and custom impose, though com-mon-sense in clothes is ft primary requisite to any welfare, public or individual. Reform on such lines would do more good than any legislation. Beginning with the Baby. "At the outset most mothers give ilieir babies too many clothes in tho wrong places, too. few in the right parts, and use far too many tight bauds aud fastenings. Commonsonsical baby garments should be planned to give warmth where It is most wanted. Tliey should he luoso mid light-weight, tho garments lilting iuSido one another like parts of a Chinese box. and all made to fasten easily in front.

"Clothes of to-day, for men and women, are not such as niako for health or beauty or good temper, Thore is far 100 much restriction and pressure and heavy weights dragging, the body m the wrong way—though, on the whole, matters are better than they were ton or twenty years ago. There is no getting away from the fact that tho ancient Greeks camo as near as possible the ideal in dress from a physical health standpoint, and tho modern drill or fencing dress has much in it that makes for the physical health and beauty and good temper of tlio wearer. Dodging the Willowy. "A general commonsensical rule for dress is to have clothes which-allow treeitom of muscular action without, being in any degreo 'sloppy' or of the 'willowywaltowy' order. Clothes should be ol light woight materials always, theft warmth varied according to the actual temperature, not according to the month of the year, and so far as possible they should hang from Hie shoulders. This does not mean that the garments slioulu weigh down the shoulders—far from it'!

"Uno of tlio greatest failings of modern clothcs, one wliicil applies especially lo men. is tho unnecessary weight put upon the shoulders in the shape' of padding introduced into couts. It were Duttci tor health and temper if tailors studied the shape of tho client rather than tliuir own idea of appearand'. Coat Frocks. "The modern coat frock, hanging moru or less loosely lroiu the shoulders, is one of the most sensiblo garments for women ut' modern history. Coat frocks, loose blouses, and high-waisted skirts do not throw* a woman's body out of sliape, lib so many folk think;, rather do sucli clothcs help to make a. woman's body something of the shape • it should be, and they undoubtedly improve her goneriil health—and consequently lrtr temper !

"Tlio hab people wear aro n cause of much ill-temper and ill-health at present. Tho. majority of men wear their nuts too close-litting to tlveir heads, while women pander to fashion by' havingmillinery which is too heavy aud not properly ventilated. Close silk ileadlinings prevent proper ventilation to many hats; cotton ones may not look so nice, but they are far healthier. Hats should put as little weight and pressure iipon the head as possiblo, and failure to 6tudy these two points by men and women is tho reason for many headaches and much brain fag. "The two things which are most likely to help men and women to reach commonsense in dress 'perhaps are a thorough understanding of what is meant by 'a loose fit* and sufficient strength, of w.ll to' consult personal comfort and convenience rather than custom and fashion, ivhero clothes are concernod.

"As for 'the loose lit,' this applies to all things worn by men, women, and children. Garments should 1)0 welllitting aiid give support to tho body where it is required, but tliero should be no undue pressure, gripping tightness, or any sort of clothes which drag any part of the body down out of shape or 'fit' in such a way as to prevent perfect physical freedom or easy action."— "Daily .News."

The Homo-makers Clubs of Canada, .An interesting description of the homemakers clubs of Canada was given to the Auckland "Star" by Miss Juniper, instructress in domestic science. These clubs seek lo stimulate all that pertains ! to Hie ndvnncement of tho homo. It was j pointed out that four things hold true of I any occupation worthy of . tho name. I That to carry on successfully any trade, business, or profession training and contiuuous study are necessary; that thero ! is strength in unity, as witness workers' unions, medical associations, etc.; good of all, and that the collected experienced, highly-trained people are employed to investigate by means of experimental research and with collocted data help to advance each line of 'vork for the good of all, andtthat the collected experiments are printed for the iducation of all. Miss Juniper pointed out that women's work had not progressed as other work had, and this was due largely .to : the women themselves, as they had taken it for granted that any woman could bo a home-maker. Somo women are good housekeepers, but not homo-makers, as j the two terms are not interchangeable. The home-makers clubs of Canada, sometimes called Grange meetings, are run in conjunction with the Agricultural societies. In every largo province there i are agricultural colleges for which the ! money is raised in the province and I spent in the province. From these 00lI ie"o=i trained lecturers go out in .the | n/n'oult'-iral interest and in the home in- ' terests. Such subjects as food and .nu- ' trition values, in which the women of New Zealand seem lamentably weak, are explained in a practical manner with demonstrations. Homo nursing and first aid with tho care of the expectant mother, and the need and value of sanitation in tho home are other subjects of. study. These women's clubs work with the schools to improve conditions for the children, 3uch as tho providing of some hot meal to supplement the cold lunch brought from homo. Booms to dry the children's clothes were also the work of the home-makors' dubs. S'inoe what affects the child affects the community, they take an interest in the beautifying of tho small towns, the cleanliness of the place, and in having tree-Ui<ed streets, a spirit of community fellowship that is greatly needed, in our small New Zealand townships, which are hideousness of the most hopeless varieties under the present control. Speaking (jcnerolly, it i 6 j tho women who aro responsible for tho j low status in which housework is held. Tho women have not thought it worthy of etudv ana preparation. Organised: clubs of home-makers, lectiirers on homo I problems, magazines, and bulletins such j as are published in Canada would sure- j ly tend to lower tho percentage of Ihej unfits revealed by tho war, for the unfits reflect on the mothers of the country.