PARIS TO BERLIN

Dominion, Volume 12, Issue 241, 5 July 1919, Page 8

PARIS TO BERLIN

ON A "BLUE PASS" BY THE ARMISTICE EXPRESS (By Mr. Wjthe Williams, in the "Daily Mail."). The best route to Germany to-day is the "armistice train" from Spa. to Berlin, which one may ride upon if the British Army, controlling tho gateway nt. Cologne, is willing. With a "Bine Pass" from the Permit Office in Paris, which carries the holder as far as Cologne, and no official objection to further travel, the trip from Paris to Berlin can bo mads in 36 hours.

In Paris a- ticket can only be purchased to Herbesthal,' The frontier stalion botween Prussia and Belgium. This for the reason that tho occupying armies do not pay the Germans anything for the uso of their railway between' thr-t frontier and' the Rhine. At Cologne the Blue Pass must have a scrutiny and a vise. After that the Entente subject is "on Ms own v in an alien and enemy 1: nd. Thirty miles beyond .Cologne there is the Jast patrol post of the 'British Army —at the far side of the noutral zone extending around the Entente bridgeheads. -There the train is thoroughly searched so that no'food may be taken in without the knowledge of tho Allies. Each passenger is allowed to carry sufficient for ?wo meals, or until tho ■'rain arrives at Potsdam Station, Berlin, t'-o following afternoon. There iu'b sleeping-caxs attached to the train— the roomy, comfortable "sleepers" of before the war, for which the charge is but 265. first cinss, entitling one to an entire compartment. No towete are provided and only a sin do sheet, which in some coses is made of a paper composition—us is also the table "linen" almost everywhere in Germany, even at the best lintels, i

In the morning the conductor brings a not of' "substitute" coffee, brewed by himself—which at least is hot aud fortifies one for tho cold menu in one's handbag.

At' tho Potsdam Station a fnnc.tionarv still hands out brass checks entitling the holder to a drosehke as soon as his number is called. So from Paris to the hotel in Berlin tho trip is surprisingly quick and oomfortable/considerinj it took moro than four years to bring about. The armistice train is organised for Hie Allied military and relief missions in Berlin, thoir courier service, and auy Germans from the unoccupied ycne who may be considered entitled to a pass. If it is not possible'to, travel in this train the only other routes are extremely long and difficult ones through neutral countries. The armistice train is the only comfortable tram in Germany. It is one of only two express lra ; ns in tha entire country—aud the only cue with sleeping-cars attached. The second express runs from Berlin to Konigsberg, in Bast Prussia, with, one car attached to Danzig. .

On all other routes travel is now very slow and difficult. In great parts of tho country it is quite impossible, inasmuch as in entire provinces there are no trains whatever in operation. This is duo partly to the shortage of locomotives and tho bad condition of the remainder, partly because a certain number of trains must be resorved for the transport of food, and partly also because of' the shortage of coal.

ftofc a shortage of coal in GorniiUiv, but m tlie available stocks, duo to tho disease that lias settled down upon the German workmen—namely, a disinclination to work. Miners in tlio great Ruhr Basin, and in Silesia, are practically all on strike most of the time. This is also tho caso with nearly overy industry in the country to-day, even when raw materials are available to work with, bo, jf anyone wants to travel extensively in Germany ho had probably better wait for some timo. For instance, a trip from Berlin to Hamburg;, vhich formerly meant 31 to i hours, with a clioico of several express trains each dnv, now means a journey of'l2 hours. There is only a single train leuving early in the morning. No seals can bo booked. It is necessary to ri.so nt dawn, sl.ind iii a queue, at the station for several hours, and then ride with'about. 15 persons in each compartment.

On. arrival at Hamburg one finds tho place almost in darkness. Tho only lights aro four oil lumps. Tho trains are "mil: running. .Most of the shops arc closed. The once nay and prosperous. Metropolis of Iho El'lio is under martial laiv, and one is not allowed to promenade Hie si reels, which, because- if rioters and machine-Kims. • are dimerous. S'o one goes to an hotel, preferably Iho Atlantic, on tho.Abler, to got r.p at dawn tho fob ■lowing morning and return to Iho comparative Injury of Berlin. '

Apart from this there is no trouble. } our companions in tho train are miilo curious about. you-and frinndlv. Thev will discuss both war and peace. There is only one subject, (hat 1 alwnvs barred in conversation with them, livery Herman 1. met, still insisted that Germany did not' begin tho war. They are \rillin'" In let: the proof rest villi tho hUtorians of tho •future. So I let it to at that, for it was ii barrier across vhich no argument was possible.