VALUE OF NATIVE TREES

Dominion, Volume 11, Issue 147, 11 March 1918, Page 6

VALUE OF NATIVE TREES

• * i PAST VANDALISM WHAT THE PEOPLE SHOULD! KNOW AN INTERESTING PAPER A highly interesting and very valuable paper on the- "Utilisation of Native Trees and Shrubs for Shelter and Ornamental Trees." contributed by ?/lr. J. Orchiston for the last meeting of the Forestry League, contains much more information-than the name of the paper would imply. Mr. Orchiston lias gone deeply into the subject, and his knowledge and advice will no doubt be of considerable value, in correcting false impressions and reviving an interest in the culture of native trees in preference to the imported tree, which as 'in the past so often replaced them. In his paper, Mr. Orchiston says :— _

"In travelling throughout Now Zealand during the last forty odd years, I havo often been surprised at tin, callous Indifference shown by many of its residents regarding the native forest flora. Probably no other country iti the world contains s.uch variety of beautiful shrubs and trees, nofc to mention the magnificent tree farns and niltau palms. In the early days the chief aim of most settlers saerricd to be to destroy everything of nativo origin, both flora and fauna, and to replace the same with exotics. It was considered to bo quite the correct thing to cut down beautiful tree ferns and handsome native trees, and plant bluegums, pinus insignis, or macrocarpa in fT?on- place. Of course, lam well aware of fchc difficulty of saving portions of the native forest while the country was being cleared for settlement, still, a. great dikl more might have been done to preserve some of the bush near homesteads. For instance, there was no justification for the wanton destruction of the native forest on tho town belt on the city side of tho wireless bul. '

"tne subject of this paper, however, is to call attention to the fact that in our natm, florii w<3 have some of tho finest material for the production of both ornamental and shelter hedges or break-winds. Some of the scrub family, such as akira,hb (oloaria forstcri), taupata (coprosnr* haucri), and matipo (myrsino urvillei,), have been largely utilised for hedges, with fairly good results. These plants, however, have their limitation-;. For permanent ornamental and fihelter hedges the above cannot be compjired with some of the timber trees, such as totara (pudocnrpus totara), pohutukawa (mctrosiderns tomentosa), southern rata (metrosiderot lucidsi), and a few others. Totara and pohutukawa Hedges,, "For all-roiMid purposes probably no other tree, cither native or exotic, can bo compared to totara for hedge purposes. It, will grow in almost any soil, stand extremes of heat and cold, and a i'air amount of wind exposure It can be trained to any shape, and pruned so that it will form a hedge resembling a mat from the around line upwards. It involves tho minimum of labour in pruning and maintenance when once established. If properly treated it will grow from a foot to 18 inches per annum, but when it has reached the, required height, and tho main stem trimmed back, it will thicken its foliage and not force heavy shoots upwards, such as is common with most varieties of licdne plants. There are two totara hedges in the Hawcra public gai.-deus which :.re an object-lesson and worth going miles to see. Of course, for rapidity of growth the totara does not compare very favourably with taupata cr macrocarpa, but for/permanency, freedom from injury by animals and ease with which it can bo kept pruned, it is vastly superior to either. To form a close hedge It would be well to plant one foot apart. Another great advantage is that tho botara can be propagated from cuttings.

"Next in order to the totara I consider the pohutukawa comes a good second. It is a faster grower, will stand the wind better than any other tree, and may be pruned to any desired shapo Its weakness is that it will not stand much frost, and is therefore only suitable for 'orations nenr the coast. As a break-wind for checking sand-drift it is probably superior to any other plant, and those troubled with drifting sand, such as along the Manawatu and Rangitikoi coast-line would be well advised to plant belts of this vakin-bls tree. Its timber is more durable than the ordinary rata (Motrosideros robust a), and is especially valuable for knees of failing craft, us well as for many purposes about a farm, including firewood. Some trees I planted in Auckland thirty-two years ago are now large enough for telephone poles.

"I also planted a couple of dozen in j Kelburn throe years and a half s!:ice iii •■ broken-up roclt without _ a Jla.ri.iste _of < soil. They were only six inches high ■ when planted arid now vary in height. from thirty inches to six fsc-t. Last | year one of ih?m at thb height of thice j feet had two dozen blooms. This , year the same tree be covered with I bloom, and it is now four foot and a ] half in height; six others will also! flower this Christmas. These trees j were planted six foot apart, and 1 several of them are on the point of \ meeting. As the polmtukawn. throws j out numerous side-branches from the 1 base of the stem it is not to plant the trees very close together in the row, from four to six feel apart is close enough for hedro and shelter purposes. This tree can also be propagated from cuttings. "In a state nf nature tho nohntultawa is invariably found along the seacoast, frequently clinging to rocky cliffs, where it thrives well in spite of being continually snlnshed with salt spray. Experience has shown that an occasional dusting of salt round the base of the trees has a good effect. No doubt, sodium nitrate or calcium ditto would 1)6 still more beneficial.

The Value of Rata, "The Southern rata (Metrosideros lucida), which is found on the West Coast, South Otago, and Stewart Island, as well as on the Auckland Islands, grows much slower than either the. totara or poliutukawa. Given time, however, it forms an excellent hedge. or shelter belt, and being unaffected by frost it is specially suitable for inland districts in either island. It frequently blooms when only two or three feet iii height, and rivals tho poliutukawa as a thing of beauty. Tho timber is equally as strong as the poliutukawa or the Northern rata (Metrosideros robustn), and is more durable than either, but it is greatly given to twisting and warning after being sawn. It makes first-class fencing posts, and as firewood it is unsurpassed by any other wood.

"I pbintod a hedge of this' timber in Otago eleven years ago, using plants from six to twelve inches in height, dug out of the adjacent bush. When viewed last April it was from four to fivo feet in height, and a number of trees had already bloomed. It had received no care for some years in so far as keeping down weeds or working the soil round the roots. Plant from one to two feet smart. The broadleaf or Kamika (Griselinia lateralis) form a pretty ornamental hedge, but like tho taupata must bo kept away from stock which readily devour it. Tt stands frost well, and is ono of the most durable of our native woods, and

therefore greatly in demand for fencing posts. "Kamahi or towai (Weinraannia racemosa) makes very good shelter. It is hardy and will grow on poor land, 'stands a fair Amount of pruning, and grows faster than totara. Excepting for packing cases tho timber has no great value. It makes fairly good firewood, and is suitahlo for rails, but nob very lasting in the ground as posts. For shelter purposes plant about 18 inches apart.

"The kahikatea or white pine (Podocarpus Dacrydioides) will stand a fair amount of pruning and'mil provide, a first-class ornamcntnl and lasting shelter. This tree thrives best on damp, loamy ground. "There are no doubt n number of other native trees and shrubs which can bo used effectively for both ornamental and shelter purposes, but I think those enumerated above are some of the best for the purpose. ,There are more beautiful trees, such as the Rimu (Daorydium cuprcssinnm) puriri CYitcx luceno), kaiwaka (Lihocetlnis Douiaiia), etc., but they do not lend themselves to the nurposo of hedges or shelter belts, being more in nnpd of shelter themselves. A uninue shelter wall can be formed by ntanting the ordinary cabbage tree (Cordyline Australia) a foot to 18 inches apart. After they have shed their leaves near the base climbimr roses can be trained up each trunk with very pretty effect.

Method of Planting Hedges. "Before closing this paper I think it is desirable to give some bints with regard to the'method of planting hedges. I have obtained first-class results by first opening out a _ trench from 18 inches to two feet in width and the same in depth a few months before the planting season. The top or turf sods should "first be placed on one side of the trench about a font hack from the edge, with the grass side down. Next deposit the rest of the spoil on the opposite side, leaving a foot space between it and the trench. Shortly before planting, tho trench should be tilled in bv first cutting down tho sides some nine inches and one foot wide, depositing this- in the bottom; then put in the sdds which were taken out when the trench was dug, with the grass side downwards, finally levelling off with the spoil from the bottom of tho trench. By this' means a width of from threo to four feet of ground will be free from grass or weeds to start with, and when tho roots descend they will obtain first-class plant food from 'the decomposed grass_ roots. Opening up the trench some time before planting sweetens the ground surrounding the trench as well as the spoil in which the trees are to bo planted. _ This method also gives first-class drainage, and in every way is preferable _to simplv digging a series of potholes. For the first year or two after planting great care should be exercised in preventing weeds or grass from growing round tho trees until they have reached a stage when they will virtually smother such growth. Some people may think this system of planting and earing for the trees is too elaborate, but if a, hedge or shelter is wanted it is worth doing well and will amply repay tho little extra labour involved. If you are going to plant your trees a foot to 18 inches apart it will really involve more work to dig individual potholes than the opening out of a ditch as indicated."