NGAURUHOE

Dominion, Volume 11, Issue 40, 10 November 1917, Page 8

NGAURUHOE

A HOARY OLD BLOWHOLE

ONCE TAPU (By "The Captain.") That very fine specimen of an active volcano, Ngauruhoe, which just now is in an unruly humour, had remained comparatively inactive and shown 110 alarming vigour since 18G8—nearly 50 years. It forms part of the Tongariro Kunge, lying almost midway between the mountain of that name and Kuapehu, our highest North Island peak. Travellers on the Main Trunk line can, in clear weather, get a good view from between Erua and the Raurimu spiral. Waimarino is the closest station to it, and the volcano is only distant about 16 miles from the railway. Ngauruhoe is part of the National Park, and is 7181 feet high. The crater is an irregular bowl-shaped hollow, with a large break in the northern side. Tt therefore seems most likely that if there is a considerable lava flow it will emanate from that break and run west in the direction of the railway, last in the direction of the old Oturere crater, or down the south-east valley which runs towards the Waihohonu hut. The whole mountain appears to he a gigantic slag heap, containing nothing but old lava flows, covered in places with scoria. It is only within recent years (hat white people have been permitted access to this area- owing to the rigid "tapn" of the Maoris. The first ascent was made in the early 'forties by Mr. .T. C. Bidwill, a relative of the Tvell-known Wairarapa family, ivho somehow managed to evade the Natives, and experi* enced the unique sensation of being on. the volcano during a mild eruption. The' honour of the first winter climb belongs to Mr. Samuel Turner, F.R.G.S., who ascended some 12 years ago. Since this time it has been visited by peroral scientists, who have reported on if, from their particular point of view. One ot the most interesting of these is the account contained in Dr. Cockayne's report on a botanical survev of the Tommriro National Park, published by the Government Printer in 1008. It is interesting to note that Hochstetter, Sir George Grey, and Diffenbach were refused permission to make ascents. All the old difficulties are now done nwa.v with, and it is easily possible to be at the foot of Nrauruhoe within 14 hours of leaving Wellington. Perhaps the best, means of approaching it is from Waiouru. where a conveyance engaged to drive one to the Waihohonu hut, some five miles west of Hie 1!)-'"ile peg on the Waiouru-Tokaonu Road. This hut. which can be used by tourists, lies in a most charming situation on thi> south-eastern slope of Ngauruhoe. and appears to the writer to be the best noint to establish a. base for a tour of the park. Prom here, Ruapehu, Ngauruhoe, _or Tongariro can be done in a day. For the climb of the volcano one has the choice of tackling it from the southeast. or the north.

Tl.O writer has only iinclortnltru flic c'imb from the northern side, skirting the edge of tho broken lit) and climbing to tlib topmost, point. Tin iudges the "astern fnc" tn lie impossible, as the lava covered by loose scoria olWs n-'ly the most precarious of footholds. Tho southern ascent iq considered by some tn be the easiest, but the writer found no difficulty on the north side, bping frmatlv assisted by tho snow. which helped very materially to bind the scoria. Much of this enow, by (he vav. was black, having annarenllv fallen through fine ash emitted from the crater. On this trip tho crater was particularly active, and discharging dense masses of steam, residents in Lake ItotoAire tolling 1110 subsequently that, they had not, seen it so active for over a year. In some respects wo -were favoured, as wo got au idea of t.ho tremendous forces at work, the whole top of the mountain being in n state of vibration, this; being particularly intense 011 the extreme lip. Owing to the dense masses of steam wo could not see down tho crater, from which was coming a noise resembling heavy trains running through a tunnel or over a bridge. We remained on the top only a few minutes, as the fumes were most disagreeable and overpowering. When wo subseouently rested on tho saddle between Ngauruhoe and Tongariro we were amused nnd surprised at the vellowness of our skins, -which had bpp'n well sulphurised. Following the ridge along north ono comes to the "Red Crnter-nuite an active and brilliantly-coloured affair. On my first trip over this particular niece of ground there only appeared t.o be two small green lakes, but last Raster th"ro were no fewer than seven of lliem. Climbine in this district nnder good snow conditions in winter is much morn pleasant than in summer, as the snow has a softening effect, toning down much that is bizarre, and in addition ono is not troubled by the sandfly and m<wquito. However, there are 'dangers in winter that are not present in summer, and in any case no one ought to attempt these climbs without the aid of a guide and proper equipment. Tn this connection it mighty bo mentioned that there have been serious mishaps on TCuapehu. I know of no more delightful spot for the man who doesn't mind roughing it than the National Park, and there are several good huts at his disposal. Wild horses abound in the district, there is some splendid trout fishing to lie had, there are glaciers and rock climbs, and the whole district teems with interest to the scientist: for the artist there are pictures everywhere. The huts all contain bunks, but it is necessary for tho visitors to take blankets, cooking utensils, and food supplies. Boots should be strongly made and stout, as lava cuts them up quickly. As an indication of what is possible in volcanic activity, about which little is really known, it may bo mentioned that at ono time Ruapehu was some hundreds nnd Tongariro some thousands of feet higher, and that in recent geological pariods Mp- Jiad their cones blown off. The effip* 011 Tongariro is quite plain Tound about tjio park, «md one often comes across the charred remains of huge trees buried in pumice and scoria.