A DISILLUSIONISED NATION

Dominion, Volume 9, Issue 2723, 18 March 1916, Page 12

A DISILLUSIONISED NATION

A NEUTRAL'S IMPRESSIONS OF GERMANY

Tho Amsterdam "Telegraaf" on January 14 published the following articlo, giving a neutral's impressions of tlio situation in Germany:—

"Do thoy suffer hunger? What is the economic situation? Are there still many soldiers? What is the feeling of tho German people with regard to the war? What is thoir feeling with regard to us Dutchmen?" These and countless other questions are showered upon one on one s return home from a journey through Germany and Austria, and I shall give a sketch of the impressions' and experiences of my wife and my6elf during our journey. ' The following is an attempt to give answers by one who belongs to none of the belligerents, and who, apart from his personal sympathies or antipathies, believes that he possesses the power to view the matter objectively and in accordance with the truth.

Wc'started in the morning at 8.45 from Amsterdam. At Cranenburg we had to submit to the usual Customs and military examination, but thaiilos to tbo special recommendations whicli, through tho intervention of the Minister of Foreign Affairs, I had obtained from the German and Austrian Ministers at The Hague, I was able to go in the same train to Cologne. What immediately strikes one, both in the trains and in the stations where they stop, is the great number of wounded soldiers. In almost every place, the villages not excepted, one saw one or more pointed roofs over which large Red Cross flags waved in token of the presence of wounded men. One's attention is also attracted by_ the almost entiro absence of men of middle age. On pasture and arable land the work is carried on almost exclusively by women, children, and old men. Another thing that strikes one is the total absence of gold. On our whole journey, which lasted nearly three weeks anda half, wo did not see a single coin. And when we left Germany again at Bentlieim pur purses were narrowly examined, with the in- , qniry, "Have you any gold?" I What tho Corman Respects. Betwoen Cleve and Cologne a wounded German officer got into our compartment. Naturally he was decorated with tlie ribbon of the Iron Cross— : what Germanofficer does not possess this? Wo got into conversation, and ho informed us that he had taken part in the Jlarne battle, but had only learned much j later that the Germans had been iepvilsed there. "The two • things for whioli we have the greatest respect/ 1 ho said, "tiro, first, the French <i vtillevy, and, • secondly, tho Englishmen's fighting." I observed that the English soldiers had been called "mercenaries," etc., but he answered, "Yes, that may indeed be so, but they fight splendidly, they are all sportsmen." And of the French artillery he could not say enough. He stated that once he had command of SO men at • some post or other on a road; he had not seen a single Frenchman, and he could offer 110 resistance, but in the evening he liad only two men left. From their newspapers, letters, and pamphlets every foreignor knows that the Germans were once animated bv an intoxication of victory. After the fall of 'Antwerp it was said, "We go to Calais next week," and so on. Nothing remains of that temper. Thoy are no longer jubilant, but rather they have become pessimistic. They certainly make much of the fact that thoy have penetrated so far into tho countries of tho enemy that thoy possess all Belgium, one-third of France, a great deal of Russia and now are about to march through Serbia to Turkey, «sd afterwards to tho Suez Canal. But behind this ostensible confidence lurks, as a rule, great doubt—often even. actual pessimism.

The wny they ask. "How long do they think in Holland that it irill last?" •speaks volumes'. Anyoiio ,speaking of tne clianco of Germany's losing last year received the brusque answer, "Out of the question." Now it is "God knows Jiow it will end." If one sneaks of the impossibility of defeating England and Russia if those countries only hold out, and gives tho reasons for this opinion, one is answered with look; and amazed reflection, Can it really sop" instead, of, as a year ago," "AVe will, we -snail. Several times we lwnid inquiries if, assuming that all neutral countries unanimously desired it and could find a way of beginning, negotiations could not be opened. A merchant m the train said, "See how many dead and wounded—and why?" followed by abuse of "dio grossen Herren" (tho bia men).

Wo arrived at Cologne About 3 o'clock, and .after a walk through the town wo dined not far from the station for (ineluding two classes of lieer and tips) 9.50 marks (9s. 6d.) for .the two, for which wo got miserably little. From the erasures and additions on the bill of fare ono could clearly observe the increase in prices. Wo, were told that that was tho tliml week that a -'general revision" of the bill of faro had taken , place. We could not get baked potatoes, as it was desired to savp the fat. t The number of soldiers one still sees 111 the German towns, while both in tho east and in the west such gigantic armies are in the .field, does certainly mnk<> an impression on a foreigner j at ! nrst glance; but it has to be remombored that a foreigner remains, as a rule, m the centre of the town, where tho cafes and shops are, and that there naturally all the men on leave are accustomed to congregate. The Prussian Manner. . On the way to Frankfurt, where we arrived about 11 p.m., we experienced something of tho Prussian spirit. In our first-class through carriage tliere was officially room for four persons, and it was occupied by four persons. In the corridor were two youthful soldiers, verv pale and both wounded. After wo had taken our seats a Prussian staff doctor opened the doo_r of tho compartment and asked if there was still room. Tlic answer was "No; there is only room for four persons." The military doctor replied,; "Whore four can go, five can go," and sat down in tho carriage as broad as jou like.

On the journey I had the opportunity of watching the faces of Iho two wounded iu the corridor, and it vexed myself and ray wife enormously that tUey were obliged to stand, and would possibly hfivo to stand for five liours on end Finnllv, I asked the doctor, "Are those wounded The officer answered in tho most snarling manner possible without looking up from his itowspapor, "Don't know!' This currish manner increased my anger that wounded men should be so treated, and caused me to observe that if tliey wore wounded my wifo end I would offer thenj our places, although wo wero not Germans, but Dutch, people. Tho stuff doclor seemed to realise the reproach, hilt his kultur immediately came to the rescue, and ifitliout looking Up, lie said, "If they are wounded they will receive attention." Thereupon we mode the two wounded men come in, and gave them fruit and cigars, and hud a very interest'un; conversation with them.

Tho conversation, in which a Red Cross official standing in the compartment doorway subsequently took part, was mainly interesting because it appeared from it so unquestionable that a creat number of the soldiers have had more than enough, and that there is a total absence of enthusiasm. Hern elso one heard the question, "'Why 9 " ssked bitterly, ,mkl. finally, thee was open abuse of ihp d<nfomnts, and anein «f t&a "meat men.

"Doar antl Bati." On the following flay we proceeded irom I< rankfurt to Munich, and when a passenger in our compartment learnt jliiit we wcro Dutch lie began—as, indeed, did nearly all with ivliom we spoke—with tho remark, "Oh, really, I Dutch I • iiiat/s where wo get all our fat and meat from." In Munich things are dear and bad. The sausages and tho ingredients with which ' tho food are prepared are not mado more palatable by the frequent employment of substitutes. This is noticeable, not only iu tho ease of ordinary dishes, but also, and more partiouiarJj, in the various coniectioners shops. The pastry evidently contains a. very large amount of potato-meal. As for prices, . 4s. for one horse d'oeuvre, consisting of a herring, a couple of radishes, a small piece of celery, half an egg with a sausage, and a couple of shrimps, which would certainly not cost more than Is. in Holland. The price of beer has gone np moro than 40 per cent., while the quality has gone down very much. Eggs cost 2jd. to 3d. each. Here wo made our first acquaintance with the hrend cards. We got bread cards from the head waiter at breakfast (170 grammes of bread eacli)._ This gave \is a right to five small miniature loaves. The small Gorman loaves are well known, but these were extra small. The' bottom was hardly larger than a five-mark picce. It has frequently hoen proved that even this small quantity of bread is not entirely unmixed 'with substitutes. Whether tho quantity of bread people get is sufficient is a matter for donbt.

We had a very typical conversation in a tearoom. The waitress complained of dearness and scarcity, and said:— ''People, such as you, who are travelling, do not bother whether you pay a little more in a restaurant" or hotel. If you do not got enough you simply take another portion, and silll another, until you really have had enough. But ill our class the situation is l.md The dearness is more than bad, Mid one is not able to get necessary things at all. Bread I seldom get at all '.low, As I working women we certainly get a I little larger quantity, but this is taken away from us again by the cu'stimere Many a time a customer comes in without a. bread card. His qwn card has been used up, or he has not received cue that day. And ho orders something which must he eaten with oread. If he cannot produce his brovi card we oan refuse 10 serve him, but ibis is the theory, ,I'ho practice natural';' is that if tlic proprietor knows that vro ourselves still have something over 011 our bread cards, and have not used it to oblige « customer, we are. dismissed as unsuitable after a' time. In this businoss it goes so far oven that the proprietor takes all our bread cards every morning. Wo 1 ave to give them up, and he gives me what he will." I should say 011 the "Platteknd" round Munich they ask themselves even more than elsewhere "What are we really fighting for?" Secondly, tliey abuse iSigland harder than elsewhere; but at the same timo tlio.v understand less why they accuse England. Then tlicy feci the misery of the war more because they all know 0110 another, and so are more impressed by tho losses suffered. At Ansing, near Munich, an innkeeper told me that in 0110 street in nine or ten successive houses there was a dead person to bo mourned. Moreover, it strikes one still more in these small places that the men of middle and military ago aro all absent. Hero also thoro is great lamentation about the dearness, and lively indignation that one gained so much from the war .while another suffered want. It seemed to me that in general pcoplo felt the seriousness of the timo in the smaller places mush, much more, and understood it more than in the largor ono.