SHOOTING THE BREAKERS
4 "BOARDERS" AT LYALL BAY. No habit has grown more quickly at Lyall Bay than the use of the surfboard. Last season there were comparatively few boards in use at tho Bay, and few people who frequented the beach were skilled in their use. This season the surf is so much alivo with them that the City Council has had to legislate as to the maximum size of the board to be used (sft. by 1 J-ft.), in order to prevent "boarders" becoming a nuisance to others in the surf. There are now some hundreds of boards —made either of Oregon pine, white pine, or kauri—on which bathers. slide beachwards on the bosom of a breaker, a fascinating sensation when the conditions are good. The two chief rules to be learnt, and both come with practice, is to hold the board at the correct angle, and "take eff" at the right moment in advance of the crest of the .breaker. Providing the surfer is_successful in both ho will be carried right un the beach by the send of the breaker. In Honolulu (Waikiki .beach) very large boards are used, and the natives are able to rido the_ breakers for a quarter of a mile or so in a standing posture. To see a - dozen peoplo shooting in on the ono breaker is a most exhilarating sight.
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Dominion, Volume 9, Issue 2688, 7 February 1916, Page 3
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229SHOOTING THE BREAKERS Dominion, Volume 9, Issue 2688, 7 February 1916, Page 3
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