PARIS IN WAR-TIME

Dominion, Volume 9, Issue 2645, 16 December 1915, Page 6

PARIS IN WAR-TIME

A N.Z. LADY'S IMPRESSIONS THREE ZEPPELIN RAIDS THE UNQUENCHABLE WAR SPIRIT OF FRANCE. S Mrs. Arthur Mead, of Christchurch, who. returned to- New Zealand by the Niagara, braved all the drawbacks of war-time in Paris, to enjoy the study of voiceproduction and interpretation under M. Algier, one of tho most artistic teachers owing allegiance to La Belle France. Having spent six months in the French capital—from November 1 to the end of April—Mrs. Mead's impressions are decidedly interesting. 111 conversation with a Dohinio;: reporter, she said: "Well, in the first : place,' it took me a fortnight to get away from London. EVery obstaclo possible seemed to be put 111 the way of people leaving England. . Oh, tho trouble I had: All elaborate passport had to be prepared, setting out who I was, what was my business, a full description of myseif with a-photo, (and another for tho Foreign Office), all about my husband, his nationality, and business. This had to bo signed by a bank manager, a. minister or priest, and a J.P. Then it had, to be scrutinised •by tho Foreign Office, and I was examined and examined until I nearly./went mad. Then came the day of departure from the Victoria. Station. The train was to leave at 9.45 a.m. for Folkstono, but I was there at 8, and what a fight it was. Owing, to the limited service, there was' a big rush, and nobody knew that thoy were really leaving until the train was on the move. Before that we were searched. There wero places where women officials searched the ladies, and male officials the men—an utter farce, for I could have got through with the most valuable papers—but, of course, you never know. They have the power to make you undress altogother. But .really it should bo a thorough search or cone at all. "Well, it took us from 10 in. tho morning until 11- at night to reach -Paris—five and a half hours from Folkestone to Dieppe in a snowstorm, and each moment expecting to be blown up. Paris—ah, what a change! Gone the old gaiety; the brilliantly-lit boulevards; tlie jolly throngs. It is a sober, serious Par's, but its 'people are boiling with enthusiasm and aglow with patriotism, What France is Doing, . "Do they believe in ultimate victory P I should just about think they do. Thoy know! Why, they don't care if tho war goes on for six years—they knou that sooner or later their armies will march 011 German soil. It is difficult to convey .the marvellous spirit of the nation—difficult to reflect tho absolute joy with which, the new regiments from the front march out of Paris bound for the trenches. "And my people wrote to me asking me what tho French had done, a> though England had done everything Tho position then was' that the Bel gians were holding 17 miles of tren dies, England 31 'miles, and France only 508 miles. And in addition the.y had largo forces 011 the .Swiss frontier, tho Italian -frontier (it was not known then on which side of the fence Italy was going to fall), and also; a forco 011 the Spanish border to wako quito secure. Oh. the wonder of dbo»-o dear, French people! The Women of Francs. _ "And the women—l have seen women 111 Paris carrying half-sacks of coal up live flights of stairs. ■ I have seen them driving tnxij, • driving provisions enrts of all kinds; hundreds of them acting as conductors 011 the trams and ticket sellers 011 the railways—on the under■ground and in the subways—all so that the men could go and fight. Every third or on the boulevardes is closed. Tliero is a simple notice on each .to. say that the keeper is on active service—business to bo resumed later.. . .The'tragedy of it! "All the cafes close at .6, p.m., find after- that anyone who turns-the lights' up. in a shop'.or -residence.without a thick blind over the'-window •is fined — heavily fined.' So that; Paris 11 the evenings is a gloomy, deserted Paris in the; light of comparison;' . Still, everything is gloriously illumined.' by tho fighting spirit of nation, " which ig a fine thing -to %6e. .'' ■■■•/■ Zeppelin Raids. "There were- three Zeppelin raids whilst'l was there, in February last, I think it was, but there has been none sincx I lived in the Rue St.' Honore, off the Champs Elysees, quite near to the Eiffel Tower, and the Zeppelins made for that. quarter' to destroy the wireless station there and the Tower itself, . perhaps. I never saw them—to hear them was quite enough. They make a row like, well, like a hundred motor-bikes barking in your ears, and the whole. of the atmosphere seemed to vibrate with their action. Then came the crash of guns from the different platforms of the Tower, and you got a slight idea of' what war actually is. On one occasion a factory was knocked down, but littlo damage was done on either of other visits. After that Paris-instituted an air patrol, and there was scarcely ever a time when .you could look up and not see the 'planes sailing round, ever ,on ,tbe watch, like big birds in the daytime, and' travelling stars at night. And what heroes the.v do make of the airmen. They dress in a sort of black leather uniform, and wherever they go they are acclaimed by the people. And they are brave enough to deserve it all. No Shirking In France. ''Nearly all the theatres are shutpicture theatres excepted. The Opera Comique opened before I left, playing' light,opera, and I had the pleasure of seeing Madam Carre in "Lakme" twice; The male performers were all old hands —the young men are all in uniform— no Shirking in France.. There, most people live in five or six-storied dwellings built round a cftmnion courtyard, and believe mo, I hoard some splendid artists performing in our courtyard— just for something to buy 'food. I heard two or three really fine artists —one a- violinist, another a 'cellist, a fine sopraao—pretty ' too—and good bassos and tenors. Oh,, yes, Paris has its sad sights, but behind its sadness is a great joy, for 'has not tho war ■shown them thev can hold their own wit'h the hated Bosches!"