GARDEN NOTES

Dominion, Volume 8, Issue 2439, 19 April 1915, Page 9

GARDEN NOTES

(Br "Kowkai.")

These nows axe written solely for tie amateur, gardener, for the busy city man who liki'6 to spend an hour or two in his garden after being shut up all day, for the woman who derives groat pleasure from growing a few plants to brighten her home, but to whom it would be a weariness to study garden book*, and for ell those who are endeavouring to keep a small garden bright and attractive all the year round. To these I say do not attempt to grow too much. Chooso what plants you want for your garden and for supplying the house with cut flowers, and whatever you decide upon grow the beat of its kind that is to be obtained. Headers are invited to aek questions.

Weeds and self-sown annuals are keeping the gardener hard at work with, the hoe and the hand fork at present. The falling leaves, too, keep him busy with the rake. But the more weeds that are pulled out, and the more leaves that are raked up, so much the more manure and leaf mould for use later on. Burn any weeds that are bearing seed; they are not suitable for the rubbish heap, but can be profitably used if turned into ash. As soon as perennials have finished flowering they should be cut back to within a few inches of tic ground in preparation . for the time When they must bo lifted and divided. •

Some of the earlier flowering kinds of Michaelmas daisies are now over, and should be cut back at once. Dead flower 6talks give a garden a most dreary appearance. Furthermore, Michaelmas daisies, if allowed to ripen their seed, will scatter it all over tho garden and give endless trouble later in the year. Keep up the supply of water and weak liquid manure for plants that are still flowering.

When picking Michaelmas daisies to take into the house, choose branches that have their flowers just opening. They will last longer and scatter their pollen less than those that are already full blown. SCABIOUS (PINCUSHION FLOWER). Wherever scabious ia grown it will have been flowering indefatigably all through the summer and autumn, that is, if it has been decently treated. Cut back to within a few inches of the grotrnd plants that have begun to look shabby. Fork well round the old roots and give them a good watering with nitrate of soda (halfounce to one gallon water). In a very short time strong basal shoots will appear, and the old plants may then be lifted and broken up, the outside pieces being planted back in good garden soil. If the plants are to occupy the 6ame flowering quarters again, the ground must be enriched with well-rotted manure and bonedust. The scabious flowers most prolifically, consequently it is a greedy feeder and soon exhausts the soil around it.

DAHLIAS. Jack Frost has already played lhavoc in some districts with the dahlias. They are such beautiful and useful flowers that it is worth while trying to, keep the plants going a few yeeks longer. Drive in a few 6tw>ng stakes round the plants and fasten to them'a temporary roof of scrim or an old sugar bag out open. Have this roof about a foot above tile plants." This wlil protect them from frosts, and the scrim may be removed during fcho day, or during heavy winds. Dahlia plant; so protected may be kept flowering till well on in the winter. After a time they seem to become used to the cold and settle down to it.

Keep , the ground well stirred . round ' the plants, and give them weekly dosc6 of weak liquid manure, and during dry weather plenty of water. The plants must be securely staked, because the branches are so brittle thaj; quite an ordinary wind can do much damage to them. CHRYSANTHEMUMS. The buds of chrysanthemums are developing veiy fast just now, and disbudding must be carried on systematically if good flowerq are desired. . Keep tying the branches to stakes from time to time, as it would be a pity to have them broken off by winds just as the flowers are attaining maturity, The best material for tying is raffia, obtainable from all nurserymen. Feed the plants as recommended in notes of April 8. Caterpillars are still at work when>ver they get a chance. ROSES. Where new roses are to be planted tie ground should be got ready at once, tor the sooner the roses are planted the better. Although they are not very deeu rooters, roses like the subsoil to be broken up and well worked. Remove the top' soil and break up the subsoil, working into it plenty of well rotted manurestable manure for heavy soils, cow manure for light ones. Where animal manure is not procurable, use decayed garden rubbish and basic slag (about Jib. to the square yard). Then return the top soil.

Whan planting the rose bash dig a hole and lightly fork into the bottom of it two or three ounces of bonedust. Spread the roots evenly over the bottom of the hole. Bo not cramp the roots into a small hole, but give them plenty of room. Spread soma soil over the roots and tramp it firmly down. Add a little more and tramp that down, and so on till the hole is filled up. No stimulants are needed the first year. Remember that it pays to take time and trouble when planting anything from a seedling to a tree. If trouble is taken in the first instance the plant will grow away strong and well. A thing badly or carelessly planted will be a source of worry as long as' you have it. Intending buyers of roses should send for a catalogue and get their orders in as early as possible. Caution.—Don't get your rose plants first and then set about preparing the ground. Prepare the ground first, and then get the bushes. Hyacinths aro especially fond of cow manure, so growers of this beautiful bulb should make an effort to obtain some. Only well-rotted. manure should be used, and this should be dug into the second fpii. aco san( i under and around the bulb when planting. During the growing sreason hyacinths like plenty of water and occasional weak doses of liquid manure. As soon as they have finished flowering they should be covered with a good mulch of well-rotted cow-manure.

MONTBRETIAS. _ Mentbretiaa that have finished flowering may be lifted, divided, and replauted at once in soil to which plenty of sand u tatf-nwnM ha s been added. The bulbs should he planted about three inches u Brow well in partial shade, and appreciate frequent supplies of water during the summer. They ltow splendidly beside a stream. VEGETABLES. Constant hoeing between growing crops is absolutely essential. Pat-hen and chickweed grow very rapidly if not checked and deprive the soil of a. considerable amount of nourishment. Where seeds have been put in recently hoe along the lines as soon as the seedlings appear above ground. Any weeds that come up with the seedlings must be carefully picked out by hand. Dust soot over the seedlings to keep away fly and caterpillars. As pumpkins ripen they should be cut and taken inside. They keep best if they call bo tied up to a beam, or to hooks fastened in the ceiling of a shed. Tomatoes should be covered in the same way as recommended for dahlias. If they are left to ripen out of doors the flavour is so much better than when they are picked and ripened indoors. This precaution is, of course, only necessary m distnots where early frosts may be expected. Keep the soil about the plants well stirred and free from weeds. Side shoots and shoots from the ront appear and grow very quickly just now if a sharp check is not kept on them. Continue feeding leeks once a week with weak liquid manure (half-ounce of nitrate of soda to tho gallon of water). VEGETABLE PLOTS. Wherever vegetable plots become vacant, dig and manure them. Manure must be buried deep where root crops are ito be grown in the spring. Sow oats to be dug in for manure later on. When trenching* the vegetable garden iiso animal manure when possible. Work it into the bottom *pit, and then bone, dust mid iulphato of potash into the

top spit. Failing animal manure, use I decayed regetable matter that has been ! treated with 'superphosphate as advised ia a note dealing with garden rubbish. A garden well itrenehed and manured will last for three or four years with the help of bonedust, ashes, and liquid manures. Lime should be added about every fourth year. If tlio ground is manured in the autumn lime should be used' in. the spring. Lime is generally applied as a. ton-dressing, and then lightly forked in. "Where cabbages and cauliflowers or any greens'are growing at present ground lime may bo sprinkled between tho rows now, and gradually worked into the soil during the frequent hoeiiigs. The ground will then be in good condition by .tho spring for growing turnips or some other root crop. Those who have not yet sown broad beans should get their first sowing made as soon as possible. Garden note 3 next week wil contain seasonable notes about: Sweet peas, roses, lopelia, flowering verbenas, and vegetables. -