DISPLAY OF SPRING HATS.

Dominion, Volume 6, Issue 1830, 16 August 1913, Page 11

DISPLAY OF SPRING HATS.

THAT INDEX, THE FACE

FEATHERS & FASHIONS. "A source of attraction to passers along tho Quay jus: now Is tho spring millinery- which Mrs. Mathewson ■is displaying in her windows and showroom. Here, all tho flowers of spring and summer have suddenly bloomed forth, and, half unconsciously, ono realises that _ tlio promise of warmer, brighter days is at hand. Each window is carried out m a separate colour scheme' —ono is saxe blue, ono in tone of pink varying from pale roso to cerise, and the third in shades ranging from lemon to warmest apricot. Theso colours, one is told, aro to be the prevailing ones this season. In tho showroom "itself aro to be seen some charming (even striking) examples of spring millinery, and the assurance is given that they are "quite inexpensive." There is a great diversity of sizo and 6liape, and a number of small (almost brimless) high-crowned hats—somo of .them swathed with ribbons, and finished with a high interrogative-looking lancer plume. Chcne and floral ribbons are used with great effect in the trimming of hats this year, and the combinations of ' colours' used are sometimes very charming indeed.... For tho earlier part of. the season hats that fit down closely over the head aro 'very advantageous, and, of these, Mrs. llathowson has some pretty and somewhat uncommon examples. -Delicately soft effects aye secured by having tho crowns of floral silk, veiled with tulle or' ninon, Tirid finished with clusters of flowers or upstanding osprey plumes. Those with the Tam-o'-shanter crowns aro decidedly attractive, and would bo most becoming to some faces. Still another change is brought in by having the crowns of felt, and a charming little hat' of this description was carried out in • pale blue Tagel straw 'and crown of white 'felt. Bluo ribbon was swathed all round it, finishing in outstanidng bows at the side. Similar to it in shape was another in palest, pink straw. . In this caso, however, it was trimmed with flowers, instead of ribbon alone. Most common was a drooping brimmed of ease bluo Tagel straw, its own trimming (save for the French forget-me-nots that wreathed tho insido edge of tho brim), T>sing an upstanding bluo lancer plume at tho back. One lemon-coloured mat was trimmed with three sentinel , ostrich plumes towering up above tlio crown behind. ' How they might withstand the sudden onslaughts of wind that sometimes ariso in this city is somewhat problematical, but they were of the most beautiful canary yellow, apd were exceedingly handsome. Another lmt cf lime Tagel straw had a wide drooping brim of irregular indentations, and was wreathed all round tho ..crown with black ostrich feathers, while, another was trimmed with lemon feathers shading into brown, with a final plume standing out at tho back, in tho latest manner ordered by the fashion of tho moment. Far more simple, but very attractive, was an American sailor hat of cream straw trimmed with ribbon, and with a drooping feathery fringe falling over the upper part of the brim. These American "sailors" promise to- bo teen favourites during the coming seaBon, and it would be difficult to find 6impler or mora becoming hats. There are still to be seen the hats with flowermassed crowns, and an effective ono was massed with pansies in subdued tones of brown and yellow. Another hat was massed with aud yet another was . partly covered with shaded roses. The soft effect gained by. veiling tho outside of a deep-brimmed hat with black lace or tulle, arranged so that it droops a little over tho edge, has been made the' most of in some of tho models. Mrs. Matliewson also has a supply of to-wear useful liats of- all descriptions.

WHITE HOUSE BRIDE.

SOCIAL EVENT IN'AMERICA. Wi'ih. the utmost simplicity (says a Homo exchango of Jlily i), the betrothal is announcod of Jessie, second daughter of President Wilson, to Francis 13. ijayres, a..,young graduate of the .Williams ...Coliego, Pennsylvania, ivlio for spine tiino past has been gathering legal experience m the office of Mr. Whitman, the District Attorney, in New York. Tho American : nation lia3 received tho Denouncement with gratitlcation, for it lores weddings at the White House, where twelve "have been solemnised since the establishment of the Itepubllo. The mhPriage of Hiss Alice Roosevelt and Mr. Nicholas Longworth 1 in. 1506 was a very ■grand affair, but tho wedding of "Princess" Jessie, in liarmoay with tho simple tastes and unassuming family life of the Wilsons, will be a genuinely democratic Eocial festivity. Miss Jessie Wilson is tha beauty f the family of three daughters. Liko her mother, she is a blonde, with a Grecian profile, a delicate, rose-pink complexion, and large blue eyes. She is a very Berious-miuded girl of 2i summers, ajid is devoted to.settlement work. Since the inauguration as President of her father, whom frankly adores as the. "finest, man in the world," she has earned great popularity by her successful campaign in Delaware in favour of a ten-hour workday for women. Only lateiy she was making a careful investigation of cases in tho Children's Court in Now York. But, though a scholar arid an earnest social worker, sho is anything but a bluestocking. Bright, simple, and frank, she plays tennis, rides horsos, swims, and dances with enthusiasm.

Tho fact that she is betrothed in 1913 and mil be the thirteenth White House bride, recalls the President's oft-expressed predilection for tlve number tliirteon, which, he fays, is associated with tho most auspicious events in his life.

OLD STORY & NEW SETTING.

JOAN OF ARC'S LIFE. Mr. Raymond Roze,- wlio is to inaugurate an autumn season of grand opera ,at Covent Garden rnth his. own opera, "Joan 'of Arc," is .going to utilise tableaux vivants to express with (jreater vividness tho outstanding episodes in-the life of the Maid of' Orleans. In this way he will depict the storming of Les Tourrelles at. Orleans and Joan's triumphant entry into the city.

"There will bo no.singing in these tableaux," Mr. Roze told a "Daily News", representative. "I consider that it will enhance tho vividness of these leading incidents in her life if the are not hampered by vocal interruptions." In the closing act thero will be .found tableaux, illustrating Joan's capture, trial," imprisonment, and martyrdom. In Mr. Roze's view, Joan is to bo pictured as "a God-fearing, good girl; a robust, healthyminded peasant; a fine example of strength of will." Ho is postponing tho selection of a prima donna to fill the role until ho hag found one like the ideal.

11l your-face is written a record of the treatment you have given it: The.bad eoap you have used for it: The bad Water you have washed with; The kind of face crcams you have rubbed into tho skin—if containing too much glycerine it v-ill bo dry, and tho colour of parchment if consisting of a bland, indifferent grease of one sort or another, tho pores will bo clogged and enlarged. If so-called nongreasy stuffs are used for any length of time, tho complexion will look pasty, drab and mottled.

But when you meet a face possessing freshness, clearness, and perfect health of complexion, the skin smooth, soft, and supple, free from tell-tale linos and blotches, such a face either bpars Nature's own ns yet unblurred impress of youth, or undeniably the stamp of Mademoiselle Helena Rubinstein's Complexion Beautifier and Corrective, Valazo. The price of thig is 4s. and 7s.

Valazo Complexion Soap contains many of tho properties of Valazo Skin Food. It is pure, dainty, economical, and lasts several months. Price 2s. 3d. a cake.

Valnzs Water-Softening Pastilles render hard water superior to rain water, arid increase ila cleansing powers. Price

Valaze Hair Tonic goes to the root cf all hair troubles, restores tho vital principles to tho hair follicles, and produces luxuriant growth where tho natural rroccss is sluggish. It is most easily, effoctivnlv, and" economically applied bv means of the ingenious - Pneumatic Comb. The price of the Hair Tonic is 3s. 9d., while the Comb is 3s. , Mile. Rubinstein's book, Beauty m the Making," contains many valuable hints on the care of the complexion, and a dotailed . list of the Valazo Preparations. It will bo sent post freo on mentioning this . paper. The Valazo Specialities are obtamablo all Chemists, or direct, post freo. from Mllo. Helena Rubinstein, 55 - Maison .Valaze, Strand Arcade. Auckland. —Advt.

UNDER THE DARK CLOUD.

MENTALLY DEFICIENT.

The question of tho treatment of mentally deficient-ohrildren, though not as yet receiving in Australia the attention wlhicih it claims, is so far a matter of pubno interest that a short account of a special London school may not 1)3 unwelcome, writes Miss Harriet Newcombe i? i 0 "Sydney Morning Herald." For the last threo .years I have held the interesting post of lion, secretary to the care committee of this particular .school, and the work has brought me ■ into intimate relations with many of these children. There are between 20 and 30 of these special schools under the chargo .of the London County Council. The buildings are excellent and mostly • well equipped. The teachers ato carefully selected, and

given somewhat shorter hours of work and higher salaries than in the normal elementary eohools. The classes are small, not exceeding a score of pupils as a rale. The education is, of oourse, free. The age for leaving school is 16 years instead of 11. The total, cost of education for each clvild is estimated at three times that of a nornval child. Proportion of Mentally Deficient. Tine proportion of mentally deficient is variously estimated in different countries at 1 to 2 per .cent, of tlio children in school attandanoe. In Germrjiy, where educational legislation treats all classes alike, the proportion is said to be greater among. the well-to-do than among the poor. In,the United States some authorities hold that .the complete dependence of

the children of the idle rich _ upon servants, and the irregularity of life necessitated by the endless pursuit of pleasure, are increasing the sum total of mental deficiency in the rising generation. • The Sins of the Fathers. It is not only tho srihool history of the ohild which is investigated, but its history since birth. The family history, the health of the parents, sanitation of the home, including food supply, are all carefully inquired into. _ These records are, of course, strictly private, and access to them is only permitted' to authorities. The value of these records is inciting yearly, but, as I have already explained, it is not yet as great as it should be owing to tho application of educational legislation to tha working classes only. One very significant fact seems established, however, viz., that cases of mental deficiency in children are as a rule associated with alcoholism or disease, or both, in tho parents. '• The work of a school care committee, for which tie members are responsible to the London County C'ounoilj is Briefly as' follows: (1) To investigate the financial circumstances of those parents who apply for school dinners for their children; (2) to see that tho recommendations of the school doctor as regards hospital treatment, procuring and wearing spectacles, etc., are carried out by. the parents; (3) to follow up coses after the children leave sriliool, and to keep in touoh with them for at least a year. Tha Happiest Place Is School, In appearance the children of our school are at tost sight unattractive. With but few exceptions their features are plain, their figures ill-formed, their movements

awkward and slouching. Their health is often poor. Many require constant medical care. 'Adenoids, defective vision, and nervous complaints are veij common among them. Tliiey are sometimes morose in temper when tliey first come to school, and they always are liable to sudden bursts of anger or sulky fits, but as a rale they are sweet-tempered and very affectionate. They are accustomed to bo teased and often harshly treated in the world outside, and to them sohool is a place of perfect happiness. To judge by the, bright look on, their faces when with Uieir teacher, a stranger would imagine nothing was amiss with them. Bursts of merry laughter delight .one's ears at' all hours of the day. I.ike little children, they have no cares.' The sense of futurity and tho memory of the past are alike weak. The 1 present moment is

everything. Their belief in the doctrine of the forgiveness of sins is touchingly absolute. If anyone has been naughty, and has been sorry and forgiven, they cannot understand why the matter should ever bo referred to ogaini Touching the Hidden Chords. It is very wonderful to see how the ohildren respond to tho environment and "atmosphere" oreated by the teacher; how a high and noble emotion, though they cannot express it in words, is appreciated by them, ,os if it were a grand harmony in music. -I have often felt in their presence a new meaning in tho-old words: "He hath hidden these things from the wise and prudent, and hath revealed them unto babes." But can there be formation of habit wlnero there is no fixity of impressions? .These children's minds are like the form and colour of their immediate surroundings. I had a melancholy experience during the absence, from sudden illness, of tho teacher to whom they ore so devoted. The substitute was otlo who, by her own avowal, "did not understand children of this kind." In less than a week 110 one could have 'recognised the once happy, gentle-spoken, eager children. All the latent criminal tendencies were to the fore. They used foul\ language to 'the teacher, and to each other, and when punished showed a degree of savage cunning which no ono would have suspected thoy possessed.

LADY CONSTABLES.

THE NEW FAD IN ENGLAND. Mr. Justico Phillimora is the latest recruit to the ranks of those who advocate "policewomen" lor this country (writes an English correspondent). His suggestion at the Surrey Assizes ns to appointing a fcraalo constable in each petty-sessional district is heartily supported by Mr. W. A. Coote, secretary of the National Vigilance Association. But Mr. Cooto thinks that the policewoman's work should be limited to dealing with women and children. "She should hare a uniform of some kind, so that sho would be definitely known. She must have powers of arrest in eased with : which sho is qualified to deal. I think she would provo extremely useful with regard to the problem of tho streets. It is far more a woman's duty than a man's to dea.l wtili these unfortunates, and sho might have a far better influence upon tho women concerned. "Wo want something difTe.ront from the ordinary police system in coping with this evil," he added. "Thosimple method of fining or imprisoning; is not the proper way. 'There should be tho alternative of entoring a prison on tho Borstal lines, and that might be brought about more satisfactorily through the agency of women police.''