SETTLEMENT IN THE EARLY DAYS.

Dominion, Volume 6, Issue 1776, 14 June 1913, Page 22

SETTLEMENT IN THE EARLY DAYS.

FEW men living know the history of settlement in New Zealand better than Mr. J. W. A. Marchant,. who retired a few years ago from '.he position' of Surveyor-General and Secretary for Crown Lands. His connection with the Lands and Survey Department dates back to 1565, when he joined it cs a surveyor and draughtsman. The Secretary for Crown Lands at that day was tho late Hon. Alfred Domett, poet, politician, and one-time Premier of Iho colony. In 1870 Mr. Marchant was made Assistant-Inspector of Surveys, in connection with tlio confiscated lands on tho AVest Coast, as far - as the Waiongo.ro Kiver, A littlo later he became Inspector .of Native . Land Court. surveys throughout tho Wellington district, and supervised tho first lands for settlement surveys carried out in tho Forty-Milo Bush, always excepting those of the Scandinavian settlement. In IS/G Mr. Marchant •relinquished theso appointments for the position of Geodesical Surveyor. On the inauguration of the great Lands and Survey Department, of which illr. J. T. Thomson was appointed Surveyor-Gen-eral for the colony, with supreme control of land and survey operations. Scon afterwards Mr. Marchant becarao Chief Geodesical Surveyor, and in 1879 he was mado Surveyor-General of tho Wellington land district. A littlo later lie took tip also tho duties of Commissioner of Crown Lands, and continued in both offices until 1892. It was while Mr. Marchant .held these positions that the surveys, and settlement of the inland distiucts of .Wellington were gradually., advanced: This was the period at which the Wellington Land Board pushed the settlements right back through the country. The development of the lands of the province, inducing as,it did an everincreasing stream of exports, gave a great Impetus to the . development of tho city and port of Wellington, and encouraged the prosecution of' ..important harbour works. From 1532 to 189G Mr. Slarcharit occupied the position of Chief Surveyor and Commissioner of Crown Lands in Canterbury. It was during this period

that tho famous Cheviot estate was acquired, dealt with under special legislation, and thrown open for application. "Within a short period.it carried not less than, a thousand souls.' Mr. Marchant resumed his former post of Commissioner nnd Chief Surveyor iii "Wellington ■ in 1836. and in 1902 attained tho position of Surveyor-General and Secretary for frown Lands. He held this office until the year 1300, \Hien lie retired. During his long career in the Public Service Mr. Marr chant, besides being chairman 'of' the land boards in tho districts successively under iiis control, was chairman of various Royal Commissions.' Amongst others, he presided over tho Representation Commissioners, entrusted with tho duty of. subdividing the Dominion into electoral districts. Old soldiers' claims, and chissitication of runs and property were tho subccts of other Inquiries by Commissions of which Mr. Marchant was chairmau.

It will bo seen that the former Sur-re.vor-Ueneral has been in intimate touch with tho rise of settlement in many parts of Now Zealand • during a half-century which has 'witnessed-its rise from very emali beginnings. Vet it was with some difficulty, that lie was persuaded to sketch roughly some saiient features of this development for the benelit of readers of The Dontsios.

In the Gold Rush Days, ■ It was not survey/work or land settlement that first brought Mr. 1 Marchant to New Zealand, but tlia news that Hartley and Kilev had 'washed out ninety pounds of gold oh tho tanks of tho Upper Clutha. Mr. Oktarchant came over from Victoria end landed at Port Chalmers in 1563Potir thousand men from Australia, electrified by tho same tale, landed at Port Chalmers in the same week, cccompanied t>y a couple ofmate-s, he joined tho rush and pegged out a claim on an island in tho tipper-Clutha. The claim gave good returns until tho island was inundated, at the time of the famous Sb'otovcr' floods, which did so much damage at this period. The- Ittlo parly on tho island accepted tho eviction. Mr. Marchant-for his- part decided to miiko for Invcrcargill and resume his profession. ■ . ' ' ' ..In his journeying to and from the. Utitha "oldfields, Mr. Marchant saw a good deal of Otago and Southland. Koads in thoso days v.-ero few. . .Ths Provincial Government had already embarked unor. a comprehensive scheme of road-making, but.in 1803 it had not gone far. Much of the country was easy and undulating in .character, and in great part it was tussock land clear of bnsh. Tho favourite modo of travel was to strike across country, i\k'«v ti\p going as it came. The diggers .■'.w ;: v".('?VrM ~l" p i r sv, ' a o' alld wall '"d— Mr.' Marchant and his mates sported a Z lor which they paid MO in Duii'din. Goods were transported in bul-lock-drays' and horse-wagons, at ruinous fi-ei'-'bts. For some journeys, Mr. Mar-tV-i'if br-linve." not less than £W a ton wa/ demanded, and much bigger SUMS ivcr* stated to have been paid. Agriculture had already taken hold, in the open countrv. round about Inyercargil , and in tho vicinily of Uiverton. but much of the remaining land was held in large mas by sheep fannsrs. Otago and Southland developed very rapidly. The native postures were excellent betore over-slocK-

WHAT THE PIONEERS FOUND. EX-SURVEYOR-GENERAL'S STORY. BIG OBSTACLES TO PROGRESS.

ing, over-burning, and tho advent of the rabbit pest had spoiled them, and tho nature of tho extensive open lands, clear of forest, opposed few obstacles to settlement, and the forests that existed provided useful supplies of timber, and were besides an admirable training ground for hardy pioneers. For some years the humble bullock served as a useful predecessor to the locomotive, and almost from tho dawn of settlement the pioneers had reasonable means of access to markets and to depots of supply. The tussock lands were soon broken into good agricultural and grazing areas, and fields fit for cropping, and small farms multiplied rapidly". Operations on the goldfields ana tho rich returns that frequently rewarded tho industry of tho diggers supplied a useful ■Stimulus to the progress and development of the country, and eventually numbers' of the miners gave over making golden holes in order to return to the agricultural pursuits in which many of them Lad beta bred.

A Record of Progress. The story of settlement' in the South Island affords many interesting passages, but in tho main it pales before tho story of tho more intense struggle against immensely greater difficulties and privations that took place in the North Island. 'Epitomising the story of settlement in the South island, Mr. Marchant * remarked that tho general character of its open country led to the establishment in tho very early days of the colony of a population which, though sparse for a time, rapidly increased, and to the development which has now manifested itself in numerous cities, towns, and villages, and a huge population of farmers who occupy areas corresponding to their means and capabilities. From very early days sheenfarmers have made profitable use of lands stretching to the very summits ot" the Alps. The great bulk of tho country has been brought into a highly-productive state, which ensures the prosperity ot the people and the ever-increasimr wealth and stability of that portion of the Dominion. The limited areas of forest opposed no bar to the early occupation of the conntry, and in time, as settlement expanded, produced invaluable supplies of timber and maintained a splendid class of workers, who Tendered yeoman service in the arduous task of providing a new country with roads and bridges. A Land of Forests. Turning to tpeak of the North Island,

Air. Marchant remarked that, in contradistinction to tho South Island, it was covered by immense forests in the days cf which he spoke. There were open areas in tho Wairarapa, on the West Coast, in Hawkc's Bay, in a narrow fringe along the Taranaki coast, and in tho great central Eotorua basin. Smaller open areas were to be found in the centre and in the northern portions of Auckland. With these exceptions practically tho whole country was covered in dense forest. Prior to 1870 the West Coast road was formed out of Wellington as far as Paekakariki. ' Beyond this point coachcs and other vehicles took to tho sandy beach, which fringes the coast running northward, and forms at low-water a perfect roadway for all kinds of traffic. The Wanganui coach of those days, alter fording minor streams, and being punted over the larger rivers, such as tho Waikanae, Manawatu, and B-angitikei, struck inland to tho township of Bulls from which place a road had been formed tO'Marton. Palmerston did not exist in those days. There were no roads anywhere in that part of the country, except in the vicinity ofFoxton, and tho Manawatu Gorge was in its primeval 6tate. The early settlements of. the New Zealand Company about Wellington did not extend beyond Paekakariki. Tho .country from that place northwards was still in the occupation of tho Natives. A few white people had leased isolated areas from the Maori owners, and others conducted accommodation houses along the travel routes. Foxton had also been one of tho "New Zealand Company's early settlements, aiui some small settlements radiated from it. Foxton nnd Wanganui Kid communication with Wellington by means of smal coasting steamers, tho Manawatu and others, and a class of enterprising tailors employed their own cutters and' schooners in tho same trade. In the west, the splendid beach compensated to some extant for the absence of roads, and the country from Foxton, towards Sanson and onwards as far north as about ten miles above Martou, being open, was occupied by the early settlers. The forest country to the eastward and northward of this particular area was still untouched, the open countrv continued north-westward along the coast, and to some distance inland of the townships named, including Wanganui. The open strip, though, narrowed in places, extended right round the coast to Taranaki, and probably as far as somewhero- about Urenui.

The Limits of Settlement. Oil. that side of the North Island tho open lands were the only areas which were in occupation by Europeans. Thcro was no road constructed boyond ICai Iwi, or bc-vond Waitotara, at the farthest, to the northward of Wanganui. A coach journey in those (lays involved traversing the beach under tho high cliffs which provailed in that portion .of the coast, with occasional excursions inland to avoid impassable places 011 the coastline. J ho coach ran to Waihi, which is now Normanby. Here on tho occasion of Mr. Alarfirst visit a stockndc was being erectcd.by tho Armed Constabulary under Captain (now Colonel) Goring and Uiptain Blake. Beyond Waihi the coach was only allowed to proceed on sufferance through ivativo territory, under the guidanco of a Maori named Fihnma, a district cliicf. Tho Ji 111 ifc\of the journey was iw Plymouth. The country north ot Hie Waiongoro River, beyond the present JSor--11) fin by, was si ill held by tho Natives, notwithstanding the fact that the whole coast had bcQB conliscatcd by the Gorerouioiu

in consequence of the alleged of some of tho then Native owners. The first confiscation Orders-in-C'ouncil ami proclamations appeared semewhero in the year 181)3 or 18(11, and they wcro continued in subsequent years. Although Iho North Island as a wholo was in a backward statu there was a good deal of settlement round Wangnmu and I'oxton and the intervening townships. Most of the holdings were stocked with cattle, which rendered splendid service in breaking in tho country'- They trampled down the rough growth, ate portions of it that sheep would not touch, and consolidated the land and assistecHn its transformation into clean grazing country. The farmers of tho dny_ also raised crops and went in for mixed farming, raising enough grain for their own wants and those of them who could get their produce to Wanganui or I'oxton produced some grain for export to Australia, the southern diggings, and elsewhere. Neglected Sottlcments, Northward of Wanganur there was very little stable or settled population. After the war confiscated lands northward of Hie Waitotara had been subdivided and allotted to military settlers. These men did not avail themselves of tho opportunity of settling upon their holdings'. Fifty acres were allotted to a private and eighty to a sergeant. In a wild and unsettled country such small holdings were of little use, a.nd the great majority of soldiers preferred to try their fortunes elsewhere. As a rule they disposed of their lands, which consequently brcamo grouped in. the possession of others, and it was only hero and there as far as Waihi that the purchasers cf these .was had como into occupation. Very little of the forest in this part of the country had been cleared. A Pioneer Drive. ■ On the eastern side of the island the road from Wellington to the Hiitt had l>een extended over the lliimttaka to 1 Featherston and thence northward to tho ihMtl of the Opaki Kain. Tho road through the Forty-Mile Bush had not been constructed in 1870. but by 18.1- u I'.ad made such progress that tho late Air. Richard Burton, cf the Wairarapa, was enabled at about that time to drive through with a brake and a team of tour horses, the first vehicle of its kind to pass over the route. The journey was actomrvlishod under great difficulties. Juror roads had been constructed in the vicinity of Wellington, and also around Featherston, Orovtown, Carterton, and Masterton. Theso places were already substantial towns with small settlement round about. As ill the South Island, all the available open country in tho Wairarapa ri"ht ( o the Fast Coast had bcP.n occupied by sheep farmers. Some of these were freeholders and others had leased their lands from the Provincial Government or from tho Natives. These settlers had, like those in the South Island, to get over the country the best way they could, and thev utilised the small sheltered bays on the "coast ,to sbin away their wool and get in stores. There was still a g<vxl deal "f forest country even in tho vicinity of Wellington, and to the westward of the main line leading into tho Wairarapa. Pioneering Hardships. Mr. Marehant considers that few New Eealnndcrs havo undergone more arduous experiences than those who occupied the Wellington provincial lands in tho early days. The settlers established by the New Zealand Company had no roads. The

construction of road 9 only began after thoy arrived in the country. These people took possession of tho hilly, broken, forest-clad lands, which in some instances were allotted to them,' and had to cut tlioir own tracks and carry on their backs over these tracks almost everything that they required, to the sites of their future homesteads.. Even delicately-nurtured women assisted their menfolk in ■ theso heavy tasks of pioneering. It was only after years that even sucli tracks as pack-Morses could be taken over wcro available. The settlers cleared their lands, erected their fences, built houses, and developed their holdings by their own unaided efforts. Stout hearts and strong arms were all that thfly had to depend upon in overcoming tremendous difficulties and facing the privations and isolation of their pioneering labours.

"I wish," said Mr. Marchant, "to claim credit for these early settlers for having gene through sucli great trials as might well have broken down their fortitude nnd caused them to abandon in despair the task of carving out.homes for themselves in the wilderness. Apart from their diHicnlties, incidental to the state of the country, there was at times the fear of a Nativo rising. It is no light thing- that these settlers triumphed as they did. It should be remembered, too, that they enjoyed none of the facilities and conveniences which in these later times mitigate the lot of settlers who live far from cantres of population. There were iio churches, schools, or post offices. Thoro were no rural telephones, and in fact there was an entire absence of the hundred and one conveniences which now follow close upon the heels of outlying settlement. I do not wish to inako light of tho difficulties and privations which I have myself seen time and again in tho more modern bush settlements, but tho lot of tho early settlers w;as harder still, and they We it bravely." The only settlements in the Forty Mile Bush when Mr. Marchant first visited the North Island about forty-five years ago were tlioso of the small Scandinavian communities at Mauriceville and Ekelahuna. Thtri' were established when Sir Maurice O'Korko was Secretary for Crown Lands, nnd Maurieevillo was named after him. It was deemed advisable to establish tho hardy And experienced Scandinavians under conditions somowhat similar lo thoso with which they had been familiar in their own country, and in Mr. March ant's experience these Bottlers worthily justified the confidence reposed in them. Besides breaking in their lioidings, they were employed frequently in survey parties and in road-making, and similar work, and they were found to bo good workors, thrifty nnd reliable.

A Barrier to Progress. Ono great drawback which militated againßt tho establishment of settlement in the North■ Island, Mr. Marchant went on to remark, was the tenure. A great part of the island still remained.tho absolute possession of the Natives. The balance had been acquired from the Natives by tho Government or by individuals without tho intervention of the Crown. Tho areas acquired were in isolated blocks scattered over the country, and separated by intervening blocks of Nativo land, conditions which did not favour n generally progressive scheme of settlement over the whole island, such as could have been carried out had the whole territory been available. Had this boon the case, main trunk linos of road and railway, and the necessary subsidiary lines of communication could 'havo been laid out in such a .w u> so old luto opaiicd US the

country in an efficient and satisfactory way. Settlements could have been laid out in grazing blocks or small holdings, as the nature- ot tho country demanded, and convenient sites could have been selected tor towns and villages. In a word, tha requirements of a colonising peoplo could have been efficiently met. Tho conditions which the authorities and their surveyors had to deal with were very different. An isolated block, say, in the Forty-Mile Bush, had to be surveyed, the necessary subdivisions mado lor sale, and a scheme of roads provided. It is probably that in tho first instance the voi-.d would have to be' surveyed through Native territory to give access to the lands to be opened. Land.--, as a matter of fact, can only bo dealt with,to the best advantage by being cut up in conjunction with tho contiguous lands, and owing to tho absence of a well-defined and statesmanlike policy, and to tho absence of adequato financial provision for carrying out tho necessnry roads and public works tho construction of roads in the North Island was only effected in a partial and dilatory fashion As a consequence, groups of settlers had to wait a long time for adequate means of communication. One isolated block after another was dealt with in this piecemeal way. until every available acre of Crown estate had been disposed of under the land laws. "It would bo interesting to those not acquainted with the. difficulties here referred to," said Mr. Marchant, "to call at the local Lands and Survey Office and ask to bo allowed 'to look at the lnnilpurchaso maps, which show all tho purchase made from time to time since tho i'oundation'of tho colony down to the proBent time. It will lie found that in most instances the lapse of years has 1 led to the filling in of the gaps betweeii the old settlements, owing to the subsequent acquisition by the Crown of those intervening lands. Nevertheless, I contend that this was- one of the greatest drawbacks and difficulties which the North Islanders had to contend against in establishing themselves in this island. "In face of all difficulties," continued Mr. Marchant, "we have seen the extension of settlement oil through these forest areas. . . . They are served by main trunk roads, along which towns and smaller centres have been established, from which radiate roads into the surrounding lands. Tho settlers, on their part, havo effectively cleared tho greater part of the country of its forest—some people will say what a waste—and brought their holdings into cultivation. *• In tho Wellington District. "In the Wellington district settlement operations have been based upon the idea 'that tho country should be subdivided into tho minimum area which will support a family. This, I havo no doubt, will be vouched for by Mr. A. W. Hogs and Mr. W. W. M'Cardle, who were on the Wellington Land Board with me. It has been tho constant endeavour of tho board to prevent land suitable for small holdings from getting into the hands of big owners. We in the North Island had comparatively little open country as compared with the South Island. Settlors were seriously hampered by the Native difficulty. In the earliest days settlement was restricted to the coast, owing to the danger of penetrating further inland in tho disturbed state of the country. The wars did not ceaso until,lßG9. Afterwards there was the tronblo of subdividing isolated blocks. There was comparatively little money with which to make mads, and help tho settlers. Yet, in face of all tho difficulties end drawbacks to which I have drawn attention, 'the problem of settlement has been largely solved. Settlers took up their permanent residence under very stringent conditions, and the great bulk of them fulfilled these conditions. . This has, in innumerable instances, involved inking t.Tieir wives and children into the'midst of the bush country before even a horse track was available. Frequently they have had to await for years before they could pet a whr"W vehicle to their doors. It is not. necessary to repeat here tho heartrending cases which have often been reported oiMhe great privations, dangers, and some' -mes disasters, which have rofnT'on the?-" 'rave and enterprising people, though iC is r satisfaction to know that thousands have come through and now ore some reward for their exertions and privations in the past."