PARISIAN FORECASTS.

Dominion, Volume 5, Issue 1527, 24 August 1912, Page 11

PARISIAN FORECASTS.

HINTS FOR SUMMEK WEAK. . Although tho Grand Prix has ushered in, and to a noticeable extent, the rival of the short-train skirt, there is small likelihood this will in any way stem the exuberance of elaborate- hosiery (writes a Parisian expert on dress in the Liverpool "Post" of July 8). We are too deeply interested iti the crnzo to resist tlio onslaught of tho choice that is now poured upon us in the shape of stockings inset with lines of lace motives, such as butterflies, etc., together with hand embroidery. The last is becoming quite a feature, and is beginning to take form in bold floral devices that may perchance appeal to thoso who have n penchant for startling footgear. Very charming, however, are tho small contrasting spots, such as black on grey, cerise on navy blue, old gold on brown—in fact, the combinations are endless, tho large establishments keeping quite a stock of this spot hosiery, together with , a striped variety, as of plain colours. Tho hobble skirt is dead, but the hobble cloak has made its appearance in our midst. Made of transparent gauze, drawn into a band of embroidered net or satin, it has.a distinctly restraining effect upon the dress-which it-hides. With the exception of the largo and wispish train, a cloak of flanie-colonred chiffon, drawn into n crescent-shaped band of satin, is a rc.miniscenco of tho shawls that women used to wrap closely roiind themselves some 50 years ago. Other cloaks are made with straight flat fronts,- and backs are. mod.clled upon ecclesiastical vestments. A ipiebald effect is produced by the top half 'of the cloak differing entirely in material and colour from the lower one. But ■ it is a fascination, this new. plan of using together gold lace- and blue/ brocade, or rhododendron-red satin and platinum gauze, and tho evening cloak is seen for bo short a time—just going into the opera' and coming. out, for example—that something arresting to the beholder's eyes has a special value. ' Millinery of the Moment. The millinery of the moment, even when nt its mnst extravagant "height, as it must necessarily bo at the Grand Prix, is infinitely more becoming, and far more varied in character, 1 than was the case this time last year.' The one (idea, that of the gigantic hat massed with feathers, prevailed before all others. The large chapeau is fitill here, but ithas to share the situation with a host of rivals, among which by no means tho least attractive is the highcrowned postilion shapQvwith curjy brim that is almost universally becoming. There is a unanimous opinion among artists in millinery that black is the most favourable colour, fer the complexion, and everywhere in Paris are the hats underlined in black velvet, whatever tte colour of the hat. Occasionally, though, one sees a .dark-coloured hat. underlined in palo pink velvet. It is a very .pretty idea, and becoming to some, faces. Bkck lace hats with enormous lace bows are also creating a furore in Paris. . ■, Great Changes in Silhouettes of Fashionable Women Predicted. There is a whisper abroad of pointed corsages and flonnced skirts, but so far the lino of the waist is only slightly lowered, . whilst the long lino of the skirt is broken in some; instances by a • deop flounce, overv:hich the- tonic falls. These latter, though, are daringly adapted to nny shapo. the wearer nifty desire. "La Ligne" has become almost a fetish with the . modern couturiere. There is no doubt that the. trend of tho moment is toward the minimum of ornamentation. If the lines are not perfect, there is no- . thing to save tho model from'mediocrity. Line is, in • fact, everything at the moment, and the couturiere who bas grasped this vital fact.has solved the problem of the hour. ' .

Stripes Much in Vogue, ■ . ■ .-■■ Stripes will be more in vogue than ever this season. The width of the stripes and their'colourings, however, varies a great deal. Black is frequently combined with royal blue or strawberry red. The latter tint has already been, so niuch adopted that it really 'looks like being one of the favourite colours of the season.. And then etriped materials are so becoming.' accentuating as they do a faultless and slender silhouette. The remark might particularly apply to a costume of royal blue ottoman, striped in white, whicli_ I saw recently. It find a very short habit back, Khe stripes in the skirt following the patterns of the, coat in very original designs; : For morning wear, dainty walking suits are fashioned in grey; and black or blue and black striped materials, the bread revers showing contrasting colours, \ such as strawberry red or royal blue. 'In some models gTcat simplicity is affected, and really these nre just as smart as the others. For. instance, a trotteur of blue serge had no other trimming but a'very-broad, silk galon set at the bottom'of the skirt, "and only'sewn on the upper side.. On the jacket similar (talons encircled the hip's. It looked exceedingly smart and uncommon. The Craze for Yellow. The French Appear to be yellow mad this season, and all shades of the colour, from ecru to orange, are popular; but the butter, canary, and a greenish yellow on ' the sulphur tones are most in evidence. The last of the three, though trying, is a prodigious favourite, and in soft lustrous chiffon taffetas, relieved by touches of black and a collar and sleeve frills or cuffs of fine lingerie, -mousseline, or lace, is a frock-motif often repeated by Paris makers. Yellowish tones, butter yellow, and even deeper, are taking the place of white iu many of the French sheer blouses of net, marquisette, batiste, etc., and similar tones are liked in collars, frills, and jabots. Popularity of Amber. When lace makes a homo among us, g earls follow. The picturesque Charlotte orday 'kerchief and the directoire jabot have their most beautiful complement in the closely-fitting necklaco of pearls and the long double rope of the gems, one en•circling the throat and tho other festooning the corsage and falling below tho waist. Nothing, of courso, equals the exquisite quality of pearls, but there is a vast amount of effect in tho cloudy amber bead necklaco worn with a whito muslin corsage, and there are those who aver that the clear and much darker amber is a doughty rival, as tho woman of the middle of last century knew full well. Amber is at present a very highly favoured item of daytime jewellery. It is seen as the hatpin head, globular in shape, and of a medium size, and is the ornament of combs and prongs, parasol handles, buckles, and cachous. The fanciful hatpin is enlarged again, and tho most mag- ■ nificent display of precious stones is used to give brillianco to a black hat of a large , and picturesque shape, very sparingly trimmed. The fashion of the wearing of amber is reminiscent of the 1830 period and of the Second Empire.