TWO AUTUMN MODELS.

Dominion, Volume 5, Issue 1425, 27 April 1912, Page 11

TWO AUTUMN MODELS.

his part. In Egypt the ostrich feather was used by royalty, and signified happiness. A description of the slave girls who waved fans to refresh Pharaoh on liia return from a far journey speaks of the plumes mounted on _ ivory and on eandal-wood, and reference is mado to the rare fragrance exhaled from the wood when tho hands grow hot. Arcadia, according to an English poet, produced the fan. The Greeks, however, seem to have known nothing about it until they got it jjrom Assyria. Branches of myrtle, acacia, plans, and lotus leaves formed it. Every woman of fashion carried a fan in one hand and held her trailing draperies with the other.' In mediaeval times fans had ecclesiastical importance. The flabcllum belonged to the cult of ttmperance. In the thirteenth Miittiry it went out of the Church, and »rew into a fly-flap, in tho hands of iociety ladies. Great ladies of France used it in their saloons; but it was not until a century latin* that the middle classes ventured, to adopt it. The Countess Mahaut d'Artois possessed a round one on a silver handle, and King Charles V had a round one too, made of ivory set on an ebony handle, ornamented with the coat-of-arms of France and of Navarre. Servants waved fans when the King was at supper," some of them being-described as "banners of France," with the flour de lys on them wrought in pearls." .Then pictures were set into openings,, a design called by the priests "eyes of tho Evil One." Fashion changed ji 11 that. Every woman put aside her fans, and drew dogskin gloves over the fair hands that toyed

with baubles. Each one wore tho coat known as tho "Houppelande," donned huge boots, and covered her hair with a fur cap. Tho fifteenth century brought the folding fan. Eabelais describes feathers, paper, and tissuo fans; and Ronsnrd and cartas also mnko mention of them. In December of 1594 Queen Marquerito mado a presentation to Queen Louise of Lorraine of a fan that cost 24,000 francs. It was mothor-or-pearl, with quotations on it about Gnrgantua and Fanlagrnel. Catherine of Medici introduced Italian models to France. Henry 111 always carried a fan', and had an adjustable one, witli a spring. He also possessed them made of-vellum, edged with lace, and t«ffetas ones, with borders of or silver laco. At that period tho merchants made a statute concerning the composition and trimmings of fans. Then the leather gilders asked permission from King Henry IV to call themselves tho "Fanmakers." j A great many disputes resulted, but Louis Treize let them squabble, for he knew that fashion would soon make them go busy that they would havo no moro time for quarrelling. Fans were amongst tho frivolities then; every, rich woman had to carry one and to wear a watch in lier waislbclt. Ribbons were tied to every possible article, and tho fan ribbon was known as tho "bndine." Cardinal Richelieu's eats always took the chance of playing with tho streamers that fell from the Queen's fans. Anne of Austria was talking earnestly to the Cardinal one day, and did not notice a kitten jumping to catch the "badino" that dangled from the tnble. A tug too hard brought down the costly fan, which was smashed (o atoms. Tho Church dignitary saw oijy the funny side of the alTair, and laughed tho moro heartily at the Queen's uncontrolled rage. All sorts of frivolities were now in tho Galeries de Paris, which became the rendezvous of tho fashiouable world. Mdlle. de Montpensier mentions fans of poan d'Espagne, and refers to tho delicious scents manufactured by the perfumers of Grasse to make them fragrant. Then came the a jour fans, which were used as lorgnettes. Ninon de l'Enclos had a gem sent to her. Tortoiseshell encrusted with mother of pearl comprised tho mount, and the screen was a water-colour sketch of the siege of Jerusalem. Tho Louis Seize decoration was the garland of acanthus leaves, with pastoral water-colours set into medallions. Shortly afterwards portraits of politicians were substituted for pastorals. In 1783 tho brothers Montgolficr and Charles set the

fashion in aeronautics, the balloons decorated every fan. In 1789 wooden ones were carried as symbols of the demolition of the Bastille. In '90 the cameo was the correct thing; every patriotic woman carried a cameo fan in her muff. Coarse materials had to be used, for the mob regarded silk, taffetas, or gauze as indicative of aristocratic tastes. Lebeau prints took the place of cameos, and portraits of the martyrs of liberty followed. Charloutte Corday carried a fan in one hand when she 'demanded her interview with Marat, and she held it even when she used her poignard. After the death of Robespierre came the "Manifestations." REGARDING SKIN TREATMENTS. In tho matter of complexion treatments, as in all the other affairs of life, merit never hides behind the door of subterfuge. Merit prefers open daylight. Merit welcomes comparison. Ifertt is neither afraid nor ashamed of its name, and does not assnmo fictitious ones. Merit has a name that it can be always proud of. Just reflect for a moment how many hundreds of face preparations women are daily asked to buy; products . put forward irresponsibly ana under fictitious names of proprietorship. No one has the least idea of the standing or identity of these persons who offer for sale the multifarious concoctions which tliey loudly proclaim to do an equal amount of goad to any mixed number of people. The stupidity of it! On tho other hand,, there is the splendid and celebrated series of facial specialities known under the general name of VALAZE, each serving a particular purpose, none nut forward as a cure-all, all guaranteed by the hall-mark of tho namo of Mile. Helena Rubinstein, whose worldwide reputation speaks for itself, who vouches for the purity of her specialities, and who, without ambiguity or equivocation says exactly what each is for. Tho VALAZE complexion is not "laid-on"; it is due to tno beneficient action of a skin-food that enables Mother Nature to do her perfect work under ideal conditions. . Write, and let us tell you about it. "Beauty in the Making," Mile. Rubinstein's book, post free on application. VALAZE in jars 4s. and 7s. All leading chomisfs, or direct, post free, from the Maison Valaze, Brandon Street, Wellington.' Mr. J. L. Paton, High Mastor of Manchester Grammar School, stated at Rochdale recently that the boys who left school every year one and a half millions did not attond evening classes. This was a gr.oat economic and intellectual waste, but was nothing to tho moral waste. What was wanted was an army of helpers interested in boys to look aftar their needs and train tlirin.