YORKSHIRE LETTER.

Dominion, Volume 5, Issue 1303, 5 December 1911, Page 5

YORKSHIRE LETTER.

lIKAYY VERSUS LIGHT FAD P. ICS, (From Our Sncclal CorrOßDondent.t Bradford, October 27, 1911. Tho old-fashioned blue sorgo has lieon largely worn during tho past season, and no fabric, is more "dressy" or-ser-viceable. One cannot walk out -on a Sunday in any city or provincial, (own, or for that, matter a .country village, in Ureat Britain without seeing a multitude of the gentler sex clothed in tailormade serjo costumes, and the sensible yet artistic adornments add gracefulness and dignity to the fabric. Hero we have a, most important outlet for yarns spun from fcVjutli Australian wools, and wc are satisfied that so long as coating yarns are popular thcro will not Ik- a great deal wrong with merino wools. We arc told that tor next season tho fine, •soft-handling fabrics made from the fiecce of the merino are to bo prime ' favourites. If to, well and good; but 1 know for a. positive fact that Scotch tweeds aro being boomed for. all they aro worth, and llio rougher Cheviot goods which aro being made for this winter mean greater support being given to crossbreds than merinos. Of course, it is largely a question of price, and a change in popular fashion. All the same, when one comes to spring and mmmer fabrics, something lighter, smarten and mbro in harmony with tho reason is always worn. There is general agreement that tho late glorious summer administered a rather severe blow to tlio heavier fabrics made out of crossbred wool, every one both at Home and on (ho Continent, as-well as in America, being (iesiroi)sof being clad in the lightest garments passible. Tho late summer no doubt cleared many shelves of light fabrics which had ".stuck," and consequently Ixith retail anil wholesale houses aro making preparation for renewing their slocks of those fahrics which are always, worn during tho summer season. _ Tlio fact was never before been mentioned, but I am persuaded, and the idea.is confirmed by close observers in tho textile world, that garments are being worn to-day in Kng r land which aro lighter in ■weight formerly. Tho question arises, Why? Simply because there is n more universal woariug of "all wool" uiider-garmoiits, "unshrinkable" vests and pants . being greatly in favour. If a person is warmly clad iu good under-gnrnients. it "iiir J < to sense that ho docs not want to be burdened with heavy clothes, Iy we are finding to-day far more iieoplo. v.-earing 14 (o IGoz. fabrics than IS- to 200z., wliieh wore popular weights 5 to 10 years ago. This is a-move, the importance of which has been overlooked by many engaged in bnndliug wool. Those outsido tho pale of spinning and manufacturing may not perhaps know, but in the production of thin, but good, fabrics, it is absolutely necessary to use good quality wools. Let mo "here say straight out that any kind of rubbish and "muck" can be spun into a thick yarn; in fact, I have seen anything from lloor-cloths upwards pulled into mmigo and shoddy, and then spun into five or seven-skein weft, which is the thickness of medium string. Although this shoddy material has been woven with . cotton warps into thick handling fabrics, which nil ignorant public would think would lie good wearing material, tlio opposite is tho case, and: it is. a great fallacy on tho part of anyone to'believe that because, a cloth is thick it possesses prceprties for retaining heat and stand hard wear, Give llio a thini cloth made of all wool far b'eforo a thick fabric mado of ehoddy, for I am positive the former will retain the heat ot' tho body better and stand infinitely more knocking about. This fact brings mo back to what I want to say, namely, that only good wool can be used in the production of these light-weight fabrics, and here wo liavo (ho explanation for the. recent big demand for fine merino wool. Spinners and manufacturers are now preparing for the spring and summer trade of 1912, and although the orders in hand aro nothing near so extensive as they were a year ago, yet on the wholo mills generally aro. busy with the exception of thoso producing dross goods. But makers of men's, wear and costume cloths have nothing to complain about, and if the same healthy manufacturing conditions obtained in France, Germany, and the Enitcd States as in the West Hiding, t am jsatislltd • that consumption would bo quite equal to absorbing Hie largeweights of fine wool which will shortly bo available. Nothing really better can lie: chronicled in regard to...crossbreds. With an end, for tho time being to the cheaper sales of merinosj holders of crossbreds are na-turally-not disposed to lake a lower price, but all the same 40's prepared, tops can bo bought at 12id. and 12i[d., though precious little business is doing, borne think that the Wellington sale on November 7 will open at a higher rate than Bradford, and Buenos Ayres prices ore still a penny abovo what topmakers are wanting to' be in at. I have every reason for saving that limits for Bradford buyers both in New Zealand nnd the River Plate will be reduced to 12(1.' for 40's prepared tops when the season opens. What is tho greatest bug-bear today is tho fact that yarn business is in such an unsatisfactory slate. So many firms have stocks of second-hand yarns which they are attempting to dispose of at under what they have, cost that, until these are out of Ihu way it is little use trying to do business. It is thero where things stick. , Of course, if Germany would only settle down nnd more business was forthcoming, then I am certain there would be more confidence felt, which' would loud to new orders being placed. Sincc I. last wrote tilings have assumed n. steadier appearance, and the strong "bear" move of the past month lias como to an end. At least, there is lio nggressivenoss on the part of those who have been cheap sellers of tops, and,today many hnvo made up their winds that unless tlicy can pick up wool in Australia to make (it's at 2<Md..' thev are not going to bo sellers under Ssd. There senilis at last to have como over importing topmakers in Bradford a determination not to bo caught, and among those, who have been lucky enough to get in at 25., feelings of satisfaction are expressed. I know the important, spinner who says that he has bought fiflO packs, and he is prepared to go on buying if anyouo else will venture to sell, i.mt for the moment ell alike are resting and waiting -further developments. The firmer cables from Australia are. entirely responsible for (his, and importing topmakers sc., how untenable is their position when they cannot buy wool to sell in tho top under 2Sd. ■ I hear (hat one or two firms ore still willing to risk i tlio future by taking 245 d.. W io one i". a keen seller at that. Therf. has been a fair number of public cables, and one states that Gi's out of Melbourne aro going to cost 27d.—a price which no one believes. If any parly is trvyig to gloss over actual facts, (hen they had better save their money, for wlicii' 'importers of the first, order are sellers - at 2."> d/ for their standard G-i's, no ono is foolish enough to believe that they cannot cover at that price. That fact wants making very clear to (hose responsible for Australian cables. I might as well be candid and staid that I could name several' who have buying orders at'" present in Australia, and Imvo had dunn# (he past I.ew weeks at 2-iJd., nnd thev have Uireil part wool. However, for the time wing thcro is less disposition on the part of anyone to sell forward, and (hew low prices have been brought to ail end until wool can be had cheaper in Australia, that really is tho sum and substance of tho situation to-day. I know for a positive fact that for spot delivery, ecod Gls continue to be available at 23d.', a price which certainly indicates a loss* to llio. sellers. Values are to-da.v just aliout the Niuio cither for immediate or forward delivery, and (oil-maker,s have undoubtedly thrown their position away Ingoing down to snch low figures for lops foi; immediate delivery. Jf they had stuck out tlicy cflttld easily have made a penny more, but somehow- thev took on a fit of nerves and yielded (o the ridicul011* bidt mado by spiniws. . Tho yarn-spinning trade is giving for a little uneasiness, more particularly among crossbred spinners. Those in tbe merino trade continue to bc.fairlv well oil' for work, and the majority have in hand one to two months' work, but (here is not tho satisfaction expressed over spinning margins that thero was and this can bo scon when I state t.hi.f twofold >10's spun out of: Gl's tops-, and which at one time were, wortli 3s. ij, per lb., can bo bought, to-dav alino-t anvwhore at 2s. fol. for .lujiunry: delivery. This is a serious decline, but it serve?, (o illustrate how things actually eland. Mohair is as quiet as, ever. Thero 's '-much standing, machinery, in .this- department, and sorters . are going sbwt time, as a. rule only three days per week. There is a little more doint' in alysca. i et uuyangsd Enasa*