ANSWER TO CORRESPONDENT.
"Wave."—lt may bo either. That is to say, it may he a wave of undulation (a» at times in open ocean), or a wave of translation (as at times on beaches). But at what stage a wave of undulation is transformed by forces acting on it into a wave of translation is an exceedingly complex matter. Except for a very few simple cases, it has lis yet only been treated bv approximation, even when tho most formidable processes of mathematics have been employed.
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https://paperspast.natlib.govt.nz/newspapers/DOM19110405.2.9
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Dominion, Volume 4, Issue 1094, 5 April 1911, Page 4
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86ANSWER TO CORRESPONDENT. Dominion, Volume 4, Issue 1094, 5 April 1911, Page 4
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