MASTERTON, PAST AND PRESENT.

Dominion, Volume 4, Issue 984, 26 November 1910, Page 14

MASTERTON, PAST AND PRESENT.

A BRIEF HISTORICAL SKETCH. ..'/. ' (By A.H.V.) Joseph Masters, Founder. ' . Masterton is, and has been for many years, tho most important ceut-TO in that wide, area-of East Coast country stretching from the AVairarapa Lake in the south, to'AVoodville in the north. It was somqwhere in the early fifties that Joseph Masters,.after whom the town : was ; , named, ventured across tho bush , and scrub-clad plains of the AVai.rarapa,, and; in company with the Dixons, tho : Bentleys, -,tho Renalls, tho :Chamberlains, r tho Adamses,.' the AYrigJ<;ys,. and 6ther ; -pionecfs',': settled in tho more ■or 'less-.a -swainp...-. Si£.Georgo'tGrey had, at tlfatTtiiiie, /offered inducements, to colonists to "form themselves into associations,' - and: go ; .out- (into tho, ..wilderness. ' Tho Mastertoii Small Farm Association was tho result. How much tho district owes to that sturdy band of pioneers', who , had to.'live in- tho; most primitive of- "houses.; n- subsist-"largely upon wild cattle and pork; risk their lives in negotiating swollen and unbridged rivers; arm themselves to protect their humble hearth and - homo from tho devastations of tho .troublous .Han Hau;;h"ow much tho'generation of to-day, .wliicli indulges -itself • in , motorcars and operas, and asphalt .footpaths and brilliantly-illuminated .'streets, is indebted -to those''people, Kobody will .over know.' Tho progress of. settlement, in. the short space of fifty-seven ' years,, has been' little 'short' of marvellous. ■ Thoso who can: remember': tho bush, and fern," and scrub of the fifties, and who look out to-day upon the maghifioent fields of verdant pasture, the homesteads nestling in the:, delightful plantations, tho orchards, the. gardens, and the modern villas in tho "town, with the palatial public buildingsjhugo business premises,, and. macadamised thoroughfares, must' be filled with amazement at , tho transformation which has taken place in that comparatively brief period. " . Situated abont seventy miles by rail from tho Capital City, on an altitude of 377 feet above the -level of the sea, equidistant "between " tho Tararua Ranges' and' tho smaller " hills "which skirt tho eastern seaboard, Jlas.terton .possesses an invigorating climate; an atmosphere-fresh and keen, with just sufficient northerly winds to dispose of

unhealthy gorms; 7 a usually-sufficient rainfall, a fertile soil, and, an abundance of clear, running water. The borough itself, which was constituted in the seventies, comprised 4300 acres. For many years it was one of tko-largcst boroughs, so far as area is concerned, m the whole of the Dominion. It was ill 1877 that tho. borough was formed, and it was necessary at. that, time totako .in a wide area of land to secure the requisite population. During recent years, however, the town has become more thickly populated, and a considerable slice of rural property has been eliminated from, the borough. A Roll of Honour. The first Mayor of".the township was Mr. E. G. Williams; 'who, 'at', that time,, was the' head of' , a ; -' -flourishing saddlery business in the borough'. The. .council, was composed of Messrs. Henry Bannister, R. Wyllio, Donald Donald. Job. Vile, W. Ay. .M'Cardhv Farquhar Gray, Edwin Feist, Duncan M'Gregor, and .Walter ;Perry, with Mr. Robert tt llsone (formerly clerk to the Highway Board) as town clerk.' Of' this council Messrs. 'Williams, Vile, Banins-. tor, and G»y have gone to tho Great Beyond. 'Mr. W. AV. M'Cardlo is a member of the Legislative Council;, Mr. E. Wyllio is said to be doing well in the United States;, Mr. Duncan M'Grogor is-living, in-the best: of health and spirits, on his property near the town; Mr. Donald Donald is engaged in a flourishing business; Mr. Edwin Feist is living in retirement, though still .taking an active interest in - scholastic and other matters; and Mr. AValter Perry, though feeble. in health, lives, comfortably m the town. Masterton, in 1877, was an exceedingly small community \v,itH a population of , little over a thousand, and the "City. Fathers" had .no light task in -keeping tho -miles of streets, in anything like decent repair. Mr. Eichard Brown, who succeeded Mr: Wilsone as town clerk, soon after the formation of'tho borough,, can recount many incidents of municipal distress during those- thirty-three years. Tho Masterton borough was remarkablo in. that, for many years; it had practicf lly no overdraft, and had only one smail loan, which had been raised through tho instrumentality of tho lato Mr. Job Vile and Mr. Septimus Bacon for tho provision of. a. gasworks. These gasworks have turned out to be'the best asset the, borough possesses, and have only recently been replaced by fine, up-to-date works at a cost of some £12,000. . : ■-■-~• Masterton has been fortunate in the selection of its Chief Magistrate, .and it has always possessed a Borough Council animated with a keen , , desire for tho welfare of the community. Succeeding the late Mr. Williams ae'Mayor were- Messrs. D. M'Gregor, Alfred Bish, A. W. Russell, M. Casolberg, E. Foist, -W. Lowes, "'G. Heron, C. A. Pownell, J. A; Rexall, P. L. Hollings, and J. M. Coradino (the present Mayor). For thirty years Mr.- -Richard Brown acted as town clerk, and his successor,. Mr. Wm. Mansfield, who acts in the dual capacity of clerk and engineer, is a most 'ci.ficient officer. '•''.-. "We went a-Borrowlng." ' It was during tho Mayoralty of Mr. C. A. Pownall that a loan was raised for the purpose of installing the drainage and high-pressure water-supply system, The engineer for.the work was Mr. Leslie Reynolds, who provided a scheme which did service for the time being, but which has since, been added to, and. at present is inadequate. Since that time various other lonas have been raised, notably ono for improving tho streets, and' the borough debt now approximates £80,000. The unimproved value system of rating has been in operation for some years, but the change from rating on the rental values has produced no; very marked effect. Tho general rate imposed in tho borough is comparativly light, whilst tho cost of maintaining the borough services cannot bq regarded as high. Tho municipal buildings have been about thirty years erected, and embrace a fairly-equipped public library and reading room. Very Fine Foresight. I Possibly tho greatest progress that has been made in Masterton during tho past forty years, outside the municipal development, has been in regard to its scholastic institutions." There is probably no township in the Dominion better equipped in this respect. When tho settlers in the early 'fifties laid off the small farm block, there was a surplusage of land after each had.secured his allotment. The pioneers* who had practically no. facilities in those days for the education of their children, decided that the surplus sections should bo sot aside as a permanent endowment for education. What a magnificent heritage this.endowment has been only successive "generations can toll. Tho Mastertou Trust Lands Trust, in whom the sections arc vested, is periodically elected by those resident ia-'tho, Small Farm,• Block, and-its revenues , have gradually extended until •they now roach' nearly £2000 per annum." When, in.1877,-the.Education Act was passed, aiid. tho cost of education became : a chargo against the Stato instead of the' individual, tho necessity. for tho Trust did not seem so apparent, as. formerly, and its scope was extended,, so ' that "works of public utility" might bo embraced. Hence we find, besides the annual g-ants for primary schools, a splendid Town Hall, or theatre, provided for tho town, musical institutions subsidised, and other movements assisted. In respect to education, the Trust has been a decided boon. Whoreas, in tho early days, when Morton and Skipper, and their successors, had chargo of primary education, the school buildings wero small and antiquated, the' development of the Trust lias as-: sistod in tho provision of a District High School with recrcatign grounds, agricultural plots, a museum, a science laboratory, swimming baths, and other adjuncts which aro probably to bo found at no other school in the Dominiou. Masterton .first discovered tho power possessed under the Act of 1877 for tho establishment of district high schools, and it claims credit for having secured the first secondary classes in tho North Island. With the assistance of tho Trust Lands Trustees, not a fow scholars have been enabled to reach tho University and attain cminenco in tho scholastic world. Mr. William H. Jackson has been for twenty-five years in chargo of the school, and he is naturally proud of the institution. . Tho Mastorton Trust Lands Trust, besides assisting tho primary and secondary schools in the district, has'done much to promote the cause of technical education. Tho handsome brick building which now adorns the street which leads to tho public park, and which was

erected sis a memorial to the late Mr. Soddon, is a monument to the foresight of.those gentlemen who instituted the Trust Lands Trust and have controlled its destinies. Some day, it is hoped, this important body may oeo its way clear to initiate a scheme which wiil provide a college, possessed of an agricultural bias, which will attract students from all parts of the Dominion. Masterton Felix. The Public Park occupies a space almost in the heart of the town. Originally it was a vacant paddock upon which stood a barracks, • with walls filled with stones and metal, and surrounded .by. trenches, in which mothers and their children were asseembled when an onslaught from the rebel Native tribes was feared. When this paddock was 'dedicated to trustees for the purposes of a park, haying the cemetery, strango to say, in immediate, proximity, it was Mr. (now the Hon.) Aγ. W. M'Cardlo who planted it in pines and macrocarpa and other trees. For years the park languished, through having no fixed source of revenue, and, although, an oval and buildings wore provided, with the assistance of athletic bodies, these were allowed to lapse into a state of disrepair. Some few years back tho park was municipalised, and was placed in the hands of a competent custodian (Mr. D. Jackson). Although it has not received the attention it should, the park is now a charming place for retreat in tho summer months. Its numerous flower plots, well-kept oval, and general equipment, with a beautiful lake on its outer boundary, and ladies' swimming baths in tho northern corner, are tho admiration of visitors, and a source of pleasure to. townspeople. It was in this self-same park, before' it was planted, that the Masterton; A. and P. Association held its first show.. , ,-This ..brings,'one to a discussion ■ of the. progress made -by the important institution - which is. just, now preparing its beautiful .grounds at.Solway for the, 'opening-show in' February.'next.' : A. and P. Enterprise.- \ The Masterton', A. and ~P. "Association has had. a.'varied career.. In ,tho early'days',its annual exhibitions, held in .the spring of'tho year, , assumed: the forin of-social reunions .rather' , than displays of .'stud stock and : . machinery. From the park, to tho Mahaia, thence to the .saleyards :6r Messrs. Lowos and lorns, afterwards to tho.protty grounds at. tho:' southern ,ond of the;town, and now to Sohvaj'j the. association has been passing- through-a period:of transition.; The late Mr. Edwin Meredith, tho late Mr. William Lowes, tho late Mr. Farquhar Gray, the Chamberlains, the lieethams, and the M'Gregors all did yeoman service for - tho . association, which at times was in a precarious condition. The old order has changed. The new generation—tho sons of pioneers who endured the heat and burden of■the" day, have stopped into tho breach. Fired:' with enthusiasm, spurred on by the deeds of their noble ancestors, armed with the all-essential sinews of war,;- they have- sot to work with a determination which knows no obstacles, and the result of their united efforts- will be seen in February next in a demonstration at Solway which will ■mark an epoch in tho history of tho district as a whole. Talking of tho early institutions of tho district ■ reminds one of tho splendid reunions which were annually held under the auspices of the Ploughing Club. The annual ploughing matches wore looked forward to with as keen anticipation as possible, and tho dinners which followed the competitions wore functions which only those who wero present knew how to appreciate. To this date visions of "Mine Host" Elkins and his sumptuous spreads, comp vividly to mind. Ilayo tho days 1 of tho ploughing match entirely gone? Some say not. Even now ,, they-arc'being re-vived-in parts of the Wairarapa. The Coming of the Iron Horse. . The advent of the railway was no unimportant incident in the progress of the district. Prior to 1883 the coaches used to leave tho Post, Office regularly, and tho well-groomed teams, handled with dexterity by that master, of Jehus, Mr. James Mac'ara, and his worthy successor,' "Ike," were,tho admiration.of all. Those were-s'trenuous days.. Manv a good-talo -was told-.by , "Darky Thompson','-,and VAlf.", Elkins, and the hosts of ;:that-time, of the marvellous escapades of .wagoners who negotiated the' perilous Rimutakas,' and- hbw the rum and- wliisky, and- other- favourite beverages, used,jfco evaporate ; on the road from ■' per. medium ' of tho gimlet.: When' , tho railway" was opened to Fcatherstbn, •: hundreds'. of northern ; residents journeyed: to• tho southern township to tako-part in tho celebration. And what a great commercial centre was Fcathorston to be! Quarter-acro sections- sold for fabulous prices, and many a speculative' settlor burnt his fingers. Tho continuation of tho line to Masterton spelt ■ ruin to Featherston as-a centre. From this forward ' Mastertou was regarded as the natural commercial centre of tUo'Valley, and although tho "iron horso" (through the instrumentality of O'Malloy and Peppcrcll, and various other railway contractors) stole past our doors, the commercial status of the placo was nover seriously affected, albeit Masterton has seen its ups and downs. Until recent years it had never had what may bo termed a "boom." It had made, steady and. permanent growth, and, although somo of its best settlers wore tempted to try their fortunes in Pahiatua and other northern townships, it never relapsed into what might be termed a condition of stagnation. ' Tho development of the surrounding country ensured for it a support which meant continued progress. "Essentially a Market Town." Masterton is .essentially a market town'. With a. population of over 5000,' it has never' had what.,may be termed local industries to.sustain-, it.: For their livelihood the tradespeople ■ have depended almost'entirely upon tho farmers,'_aud ' settlors ■ of the district. Tile growing»'of-, wheat and- ; oats ■ was the I chief-occupation of the small farmers in , tho neighbourhood of tho town, whilst in the-' back country the larger holders have devoted their •attention to. .wool and mutton. Like'.many other districts this - district. owes its prosperity largely to tho refrigerating chamber. Of late years an effort has been mado to establish the dairy i industry in our midst, and, although this has been - partially successful, it has hot 'made those rapid strides which have attended the industry, in other parts of tho district. This is duo to two causes—firstly, tho satisfaction of agricultural-farmers.with existing, conditions,- and, secondly, the failure of tho Government to -acquire ■thoso largo' estates in the neighbourhood of.'tho town which aro adapted for dairying. An effort was "made in the early days to establish a woollen factory in the district, hut, for reasons which need. not hero bo recapitulated it failed.- - During the , last - twelve months a movement' has been mado in the direction of.'.establishing freezing works -in the- neighbourhood of tho town, and this has been so successful that the industry is ,-now.assured, and the works will ..shortly bo opened. Already somo thousands, of pounds have be-en expended in wages, and tho permanent expenditure of hundreds of pounds weekly cannot fail to give an impetus to trade. The Hand of tha Guilder. Masterton is well furnished with public buildings. A new railway station was erected somo years ago, and is oneof the best along tho line. A fine., now post office (in brick) was provided a few years back, and thoso who had to patroniso the post and telegraph offices in tho days of John Baggo and Garin M, Park knew how to appreciate the

cliango. Tho telephone installation, which was received after much active canvassing by tiio writer and Mr. Jo-E-opli DixoUi is now quite an institution' in itself, and has several hundreds of subscribers, with a connection with all tho outlying districts. A handsome new fire brigade station has recently been erected by the Fire Board, "and now wo havo sums upon tho Estimates for Government Departments (of which, wo havo not a fow in tho town), a now Courthouse and a police station. When these aro provided, tho town will be about, as well-equipped as any in the Dominion. Sergeant Miller is at present in charge of tho police station, and Mr. M. Foley is clerk of the Court. Town Institutions and Clubs. The local institutions of Masterton are numerous and strong. They em-' brace almost every known society and organisation. Of friendly societies, wo have Foresters, Rcchabitcs, Druids, Oddfellows, and Hibernians. Years ago there- was a "Society of Friends," but, for somo reason or another, this was allowed to lapse.. There is in existence a fairly strong Masonic Lodge. ; Tho Y.M.C.A. boasts a very strong and influential membership, and has recently made- important- additions to its premises. Then we possess a Literary and Debating Society, a Savage Club, and numerous minor social institutions, to say nothing of tho Masterton Club and the Commercial and Farmers' Club. Since the carrying of No-License, these latter clubs have been moro popular than ever. By the same token, Ko-Licen-se has closed six hotels, tho associations attached to which were numerons and varied. With a, discussion of tho effects of No-License. upon the social and material welfare of tho town, one need not'here be concerned. Opinions, differ. upon his, as they do upon most other, questions. But the hotels "aro closed, and the days of Elkins, and "Darkicj'VtThompson, and.all,the rest of the. gosd old sports aro memories of jio. past. ' '■; J Among the'- social institutions in tho town may., be numbered a very strong Amateur , Operatic Society,' an' Orchestral .Society, two -brass: bands,, a Hibe'r-. nian Society, a'Caledonian'Society, an Amateur Athletic So'c'iotyj" etc." There has also recently been formed-a Musical and' Literary Competitions' Society. ' Then we hare our. Horticultural' Society and various other institutions, whose objects are to'educato'and eiiterV tain tho public, Tho spiritual .welfare of the community is watched over by six clergymen and a Salvation 'Army officer.'".. ■'■ . :■' ; .' .■■ i! ■;■•'.. .-' Astonishing Town for Sport/ ' Possibly, however, it is in tho way of sport that the "Wairarapa-, and Masterton in particular, stands pre-emin-ent. Thoro is no branch of sport known to tho British' public that has not its devotees in this township. First of all there, is tho Kacing Club, with its splendid course at Opaki. Then there aro half, a dozen football clubs. And, in this connection, tho names of tho Grays,; and Watsons, arid D'Arcys, and' l'errys aro something to conjure with when Rugby is spoken. Four . or five, cricket clubs havo their regular patrons, whilst hockey (which has of recent years come, into great, favour) boasts oF hundreds of enthusiasts. Tho Golf Club has just concluded a most successful season., Tennis is now »in full swing, and the anticipation of tho Wellington provincial championships boing held in the town is creating quito a keen interest in the sport. Bowling is quite the rage with scores of townsmen, who liko tho "bias" of tho game. Then we havo our swimming clubs, our Homing Pigeon Club, and ,a dozen and one other clubs, ' including a ' Hunt Olub.

Riflp-shooting is also a favourite pastime, and the namo of the Opaki Rifle Club—which has produced .several winners of the championship belt —is familiar to-shooting men from one end of tho Dominion to the other. A Morris Tubo Club is in existence, and a miniature ride- rang© lias just been constructed at tho local school. There is. a fine body of Territorials in. the town, infantry and mountedj; and'the .Boy 'Scouts havo also a ■ substantial membership. Tho attractions to tho district include trout-fishing, deer-stalking, and' motor-; ing. Tho roads, are.in splendid order, tho whole of ; the rivers and streams be-: ing bridged. . Tho_'. Alpine-climber, may also' find' pleasure- in '-. . 'the ■'. ascent '••: of. Mount Holdsworth;; the road : , to which has recently beea. greatly improved.'.:■'.:■