ITALIAN SKETCHES.

Dominion, Volume 3, Issue 700, 28 December 1909, Page 9

ITALIAN SKETCHES.

i 1 / 5 (By E«v, Frederick Stubbs). (Ton The Dominion ) t k Rome, Ootobor 1, 1909 -'has. .been. ,my good: forlunfi. during 'tho Ihst twenty years-to sojourn for tv :seasbn • atcqngstniany'lcteerent"races,' but ■I :ithirik « tjiafci/df : Jill'. tho. /peojiles :.\Vhosß ■.acquaintance-.:l,,have .•mado nona aro |_ni'pr&- ■lpfabio;.' than - the - - Tliey ■firei ;lcs^ ; enirgetio ahd progressive than the British,' the ..Americans,' and tho GeriM^;vttex.<4p.':s6^a»ejs.: tho., briiliancy \.bfc" ? .ythb/i3?Afaoii"i;]tlißjr l J.aro,\ ; -ri(>iir : -os.-,_'indu&; .trious and thrifty., as .the; Dutch; the Swiss,'; .and .tho Norwegians; but they iito good-humoured, light-hearted,: acneroiis,. always ready, ' for . a ; iaugli, and a Ecod-looldngV.peopl6,-.'t6bV:,tp my.'mihd.onViof. jSurope,''-with somewhat swarthy. complexions,■ black hair, and;dark brown eyes; not.as big as : tho ' Gerriians T . and ' Noru-eKians, v.but, 'for?.^^the;Vnibst in ; |?Nprrhej-h:;ltaly,>;iYeU-built: ah'd : museuiar, •,thpVgh7l'must :.cohfKS'there: is. a. decided ' ■But handsomo ruen : and .'prctty women dml ichildren 'nbound. 'Tho JtaHaiis of ■,thV;i'yfSlthiM,;'aiidj , mucliljilioi.samo' in manners and ■habits';as;other European racosJ Of thek:, therefore,..!-shall..say, little. . ;'r.;,'rh : fl3y 6 lifliffefenpei rimoii»st tha ■ poorer :classes,"f who anS less restrained :by .the . artificial -.demands" of ;mpdord'.oiyilisation>'.'.'.;Ahiohgst ; 'these m a y .fitiqueittly "be ';ity>im(l;' : simplieity.V!;;Thby.''Jrefor/.the nueen ' shijlings a wcoli js .a ' common : wige;.even. in;tlic to-wns, and •in country districts it, is inucli ; lcss; in many cases Jaiot-;: more « this'. sum >' : per, C month. •,9PPrM,;soitremely i siiliT ■ Pte ofmaize; '.seems yta Ji6 the conunoncst:' disU .in the : north, and,beans m tho south, to which may' bo: .a(ldccl.; maize; ;or wheat .bread,- oil, ;fflttoar6ai;','Sbmo frtijt,' -and :icoihmbn ii-ed ;wino.y ;;Meat, , ::,the, poorer seldom' pns .regards'- fbod; 1 contrastih<: in . this respect with tho; Qor'miins,; and, ■nohnth^tanding. 'the.', .extreme.'cheapness 'of rawihe,;'; are';" seldom A'ihtbxieated. ' -7A' great, many»drihk;i;:water.; i;' Kko most colours. and, ' though - tho clo thing of the. peasantry is usually pobr, arid often' ot.colour.. to;. give • picturesqueuess' to . tho wholoj -and m, the -case of - women- and girls, j there,.. will ( probably, be added a . large bead ; necklaoe round;-tho -.neck, and earrings; inVthe earsLJjTho-hpiisesvof the poor; are not. as clean or light asthey .ahd '.yer'niin-Jarb-' : .-by' no^^-means' ■ unponimon."v;<'! has b. .good: time 'i.tbbugh/.hare;^-andi.i"'ua-.pPJfifortable, tuo co'untry;- cottaso is frequently.prctty,''; with',.avine-coveredver-andah -in,front,-on which i the : kitchen niidi-bedrodm'sVopen,. 'and'■'where: most pf. 'th.a meals, are t.tken: ' • i',- -V I Gjindolieri and Others. S:P.^:tHb7^or;i;t6wn'-dweliePs.;ho'me'.^ good can be said. One;: iildi-, fiatjM .-tUo^-pbyp^yy. ! 'oirr'tliiSr. , .jße<>pl6/-is.T , ith'b ;.fray : ;tKe'jWpmen.;.wprk;;; Ini.tne fields .they '•9harb"^y«^-rlal»iir"jirt'th': : 'lhb>V.mehi!-a:n.tt ':ypu;;may.-:-meet.:them; in ; country ;carjying:/heayy vloads'bnvtheir;.,heads, .vl , have; ;evfln];6Mii ; . naWpngj''. helping ti). build ;a railway ombAnkmont., And JyDfc,':;,though":6o:poori?' tnev'lftban "peasant' '713'j; Hojiih.as 'never. !anything:;(Uiferent. "Hard :as -be, it. is-good-deal better Jhan?liisi;fpther's,>;,ahd/jjt;ij^ He ■■ has. a great deal of: .-tough- -work, scanty -pay, -. apd -. few; but 1 as, a yrule.-enjojßjgobd/hMth-'aild^glwd'spirits'^ '^rbhg;3Be, , eh]6ys;,,the.;Bociet^?<)f ; 'his,;:felr '.lows ;;.is''-C ! f,remflßd6ns;:talkar'i f and ;js'ii : , 'terested.: in-hll- thoi gossip of the day. .To speaks-"\Vith 'Ahdy'tton -• iierb j,-is' , Humonr ; to"? wbriy; , lilnd;:;aU.- .beauty pfihy'. : cbnnbv; .'an(i the brightness of: its olimato;:- r ;WTib--eould ■loiigtl)e.'«ilhappy, , ih:-srich'''a: land?.':--. , .'. Spmo.people, think that' thfe Italian is ;to:fendetii : 'andvth6 .leaping fiirytbf' the. snletto ;^ B,nt; these. are not quarrol readily and noisily, but as a rule gondoliers :di£pute;is"'a revelation .'You "tffatfthe^will 7 fly::ht ;^^otip''a'nbther, S itKrbats ;Wj|th'"-knive&~Bit^iiey- ! i s After, I'hiirliii'overy!dnSnltitheMcan;:think 'of 'btlier -"and Vat ' their..M^btiyer.anifewimrautei;;aftei'/afoflanghing. iind ;Mngirig§^. l .:befpre^;j^P^e;iH : troubles in' read.of: are.caused .by a #e^'ib^"' : :hu^'.'arfenbfc/ : :nbnierpusjhorc.. : :f:.Nbt that all .who-emigrate'tP-America oro desperadoes.- • IJhe !.majbrityj are. well conducted .'andiiindu'stfi'ous.-I;Thttusahds:bf. the', most .de'sira"blb''i«asarifß. : are.' saving; money .that ■th'eyiibay.'6rpM,''theVAtrantic. ; and .sharb : the ' larger.fopportunities; of -the',Great . West La:id.'- --l-'-'am •' informed : . that. .• nearly ■;s2o,ooo,PojK^rs--'l)^j!;-';senti ,^nii.a]ly ! , by. Italians ■in " America. to, assist their 1 .- relatives':'an'd;:,fri<Shdsl - {It'i'ig this, Stream: of 'bm^igratioiii^iand; the",'rapid .igrottth V pf.the largeNstowiig':,. that, *tend« : f • to >? rbiso;;; wa^'ei ''nnQ'.ihb-'staMai^ 1 ? ! ibfibeC attracted:.'to' iAustf alia^.^whose Jcli-" '"lhdfo/:;Wb-it]d'l«rait .v^thelnX''a < 'dmi rdblyr'ita'd ■ where : they would :make excellent, colon-.. ■isk if limits:-bfvspace.rwill-not' 'permi^.':^ about; thes'^peaMiitry;-b fr^turn: vfrbm ; themv, td . .'giro somo/ - impressionß of Rural Italy Tins is for tho most .part vory beau--tiful. -'Afl one travels; down .tho: main line.;th6^coimtiy:« ; either:;side ijs, almost in- - ;ig npt.Tar'fldt country; -'in:tho::n'orth:-thorQ': : ftrc mighty ' Alps, '- now.' tunnelled', by ;itho ...wonderful bt Gothard Eailwaj, and everywhela one finds hills and valleys to contnbuto to the beauty of the- scene. . On :tho.-hiU-. : strips /_.thereVuWi 1L V i'requontly f i-isb;;, a.' pic-; turesquc 'castlp-or: palaco; whilst >on. tho slopes, will - ■ nestle, : amidst the ', inostexquisite ■-■foliage,' Abrightly.-coloiiredtowns ;and--: villages.- Judging - from: -what - one sees, from the-jtailway;; one, would think ;thai> Italy;'was ! . bne 4 :t)f.: the'iiiosir. ; fertile ■lands' in existence. ATho landMs ,so igfeen j so highly cultuated. For hundrjvls of ;iniles iibno; 'passes6ii&essiyeJy:>.throiigli -itelds -of -mMze-;-huge-plantations.;Of lnulr •.bei^'treesfor-the.cultivatioh :bf .the-silk-\{-orm; vineyards with ■ luscious -• bunches jpf:black ? ahd';whito: grapes.;hanging; temptj ingljr ;frbm ; theivineS';;ahd,; : near,ithe: great ;cities;v;'mOTkbt;gardehSvfiU((d ! with;-fruits and vegetables. Of wheat, oats, -Sheep, cattle,' ono' sees :comparatively -.little..::- « " Italy --is■■: not a- great . meat-eating or . meat-producuigi country, nor docs wheat furnish, tho 16taple ;.food 'of -tho. peoplo. ■l'o seo ;a farmer's cart, on, the road, the horse.or mnlo:driven, without bit, a huge bundle.-of . hay- tied, on :ono \ side from which ,tho; attimal feeds himself : leisurely ih#uU.: :^ftvelsi'',us'.-:':b'6th'; .:intcfestins.-'''nnd '^amnMng.^Npr,^does:it ! lack'.b. ; ccrtain eleime'nt ;bf sbscitemoht, t ':-';All;;couhtryV'triiffic proceeds in this way: On ihe top of the •load .the .drivor. -will :almost invariably he lying with the reins in,his hands fast asleep, and:, you wonder how collisions can do ;• avoided,-, or at ;what . moment- a sudden lurch may-, sond'.:tho-".dmeK-'boad' But 'such .hccideiits; 'which to. 1 tho pbseryer- seem inovitnblc, seldom happen., All. (frivers of vehicles .prt-:v,the';;coiintry: roadsV unflorstahd';. perfectly ,the : d6ndiU6ns,; , an([,'';wlieii: awake, .givoioiio : a- wido! bbtth;'" If itho evidently ■ know .-ltj . and aro careful-: to. avoid ono another. Indeed, I am not at all sure :that tho i animals-.would-not- reach "their destination just as well without drivers; j thoy;.afp; ; sb .'patient,.' so": intelligent, so* accustomed rto 'their work. And yet, - poor brutes, they . are by." 110 • means well li.trbij.teu/.j:;-"'Likb',' ;-their .masters,'? they V. aro ?: to.' hard 'i-jrork:; ; and'-vmeagrb fare, f and in addition • bear . heavy loads : arid ih'eayy4.blowS,:'crThe ipbor; beasts are generally in Vory- poor: condition ;■ some- . tnmcs working! with sores, that would 111Jvolve'heavjr "fines, in'.E'ngland: or.iAustral-' :asia. : ■ Tho : K»li4ns-tain; no prido in. the .treat-them *ith little consuloration » ■ Of tho Italian: lakes I amalmost afraid to speak lest _my pen should get:beyond i'soatibl/l-: tjberbfOTo'' ;:coiiMnk?- myself, jyith/sayin'gc.thdt'.-thev.'s

of their beauty aro; not'- .exaggerated.- :, Thoy- aro perfectly, lovoly, surrounded by hills and,.mountains, on .the slopes: ,of which .aro, tp bo seen the most'.erichant,ing gardens;; and villos: atld picturoSque' villages.' Horo Natiiro, iudoed, owes not ,n little .to -Art.:, Thero are: lakes in New:: ' Zealand->\those- natural features ai-b: pro<i bably as beautiful as those of Italy, but •! they, lack the. cultivation;: the colour, the g beautifu) ;towns'.and;'villages.; .'l'he : colli : ours: of; the-buildings in : Italy , niustihe, [t seen; : :to'.• bo :'uhderstobd; Jthe -reds ; and £ yellows: are'so"'exqiilsito"even: oh '= the .. meanest buildiiigs,.and amidst the bright. ?•" greed -foliage , fascinate;'and delight - the Y, eye. Lake Gomo .1 regard 05 the most e beautiful - in': the : world; *A"nd 'then over' allMs the bright - blue, of .the;ltalian.ek'.V; , and:'afouhd. all the'.warm •.translucent at- -. mosphefe. .. No ;.wonder that with such a country and climate the people are e , .happy..,/ And jivhen'::.!:-reflect' that ; AusT traba and. New.; Zealand possess similar . natii'ralvadvantaees, -thb-'hopo'arises that j there, too,: will flourish' lovely towns afid _■ villages inhabited by: a.v cheerful* con'l, teiitod, and artistic, people, but with a ? wider intellectual life and "a : more hbun- ' dant' prosperity. , "■ 1 ? Italian. Cities. 1' :. :I close\this .article' v/itha- brief "sketch , of Italian '.cities.;' ~These have . invariably, j- numerous , narrow : streets, • \vith'. tall i i streets', possess .no^^-side-walk; 'nijarly'- all f are,payed ,iritli largo.;'i;oUghvUobbs;VMni6: 3, nrb. so: narroiV-^;that::tlib; inhabitants can - 1 shake win-' , dows, and in these, of course, there can .- be io. vehicular traflic. - To 'drive through 1 an , Italian .01 ty .furnishes healthy- iexer--3 oiso for. one'^.liver, .whilst to-walk prof jiret enongh; danger lind excitement t in dodging-;vehicles", to*: make; one's'perambulations interesting.;. Not "that all Italian- - 3 streets -are .'narrpw; •'ln; the' ; larger'roitiba' 3 there aro always some modern-thorough--1 fares, handsome, well-paved, and supplied t with electric trams, but tho .great major--3 ity .ato,.as described , above., All ancient . cities ;w ; ?ro 50, ■■ as many , human beings ?; as possiblo. had ' fco. bo crowded- into as s small, airspace' as:,, possible* for 1 protection (: But,: notwithstanding-' all defects' from .; the " modern 'standpoint; - Italiaii cities are 1 invariably , charming; reds -and yellows i prevailing, ..which, always. gives a cheer- - ful impression; Then they invariably * abound'-withopen "Spaces, '.ornamented with .flowers, statuary,'..and s fountains—somo'of-theso: spaces re preL ', sented- by, park 9 ".and '.large -/piazzas; t others' by ■' the, ; :inner: courts' which are to t, .bp- found;-in,, all-'."the.; larger.'buildings— 3. bright, little oases,; > always green and J refreshing.-. to < the. eye, and; from the f gentlo splash of .;the central ;fountaini, b pleasing.-tb;. the .;-;'ear. j :.;'Then : one- must 1. riot:'forget,;; the , innumerable churches, v' with, their priceless "paintings arid:sculp'--1 .tares r'.tho';piilttiM.s, i vpictnr«;Balle'ri€si: and. a museums,,to, be :found in every city; and r • Inst, 1 , but not least, the picturekiue.'.ihs terestin'g.v 'arid ; .:kindly ' 'people; -by whom 0 0110.is surronnded.- -.'A' Street or' a: vil- -■ lage may bo poor, ill-paved, insanitary, - .but: it ;is ;always. pictnresquo. - There-'is - always;, an- intellectual :;atid :. artistic ih--1 terust ' 1 * Rome, Venice, Florence. < r Here in. Homo, from which; I 'pen these . ■ words,, there ;is .'a jiopUlatibh of . 4(10,000, 9 ; iwith: 400 'churches, and, in ,the :season, ;GO,OOO v «cclesiaslacS; :.: r St., Petei's. is, pere; ::haps, :the':.';chief;;cebt^ T tho,, largest! ; 'chnrph..;iii : ,' the ' 'world,': but; •. to my mind,' by -nb:means: tho most' beaul 'tiful:-..,that supremacy I -should glvo to St. Mark's, of. Venice—a veritable-gem; ? -where every dotail is costly, and beaUti--1 .ful,-bcantiful ; ,;:not;'merely.in"form,--but t ; in . oolour also.' ...Then hard . by St. ?. Peter's is tho hugo palace (a loyal E>s man Cathoho -would , say-' "prison")-of r .' •.'th© - iVaUcia. . with : - its iilOO •. :its i beauxifulT 'Rardoiis} its■ so\ilptur6 'Killv Dorics, tho -finest/in., tho world) its beautif.. ;ful.. Sistine'. Chapelv- aild picture iialleriea --anti, this ls-orily/oUfl. treasuro-houso of {Art .m .Komo, jthougK on the'whelo, the N "' vfinest., iv-Thoro r .;aro.;-;lidf-a*ddzGn\ pth«t ..'magnificent ; collections of '- first«rato imf 4 portance,; as.,well, smaller.. ' » ! And |heMhcn.-oilc. ; thiiik9 of ;tho'glori-- - (oiis.,-.y®ii and Pifti ; Galleries ln'Plorf\|bnceil: ■; galleries-,- ik~ the 1 * world, numerous-; other / great; coK !. lectionsjof ~irt in Venice, Naples, Genoa, ;. .Sienna,-, 0t0.,, ono; 19 i-almost, overwhelmed - I; J w»ttf tiy : this couii--1 try. ;:It ; at : onb'-time tho whofe papulation ~had; little other -interf ,?st-'in : life but to ere.et'.*mb^ificent, : build-: *. ;iiigs,,aiid;enrieh .theni,;itith .countless' sta'r. ® : ,: tiies ohe oPttntry. | , could. produce such a numoer of artists r; is:a;,raysteryi.: Yes, to the: iiitelliK«nfc ob--1 Server, the.so .ancient .Italian cities ale 3 simply, crowded with-intcrest and enjoyment; oven' .the: ruins: they,j contain are - magnificent. . Exigencies of spaco prereiit' J . my, entering-upon any 'description,, here, * but to {•' C!olosseum,:the'Palatino,"itho -enormous r Baths-of.Caracalla,: and a hundred other } exoavatlons ab. Kome.'.'is a liberal eduea- !. tion., No oneiwho has-not-seen them can 1 fprm 'any. ideq'uatb bbiceptiin bi the vadt--1 ,ness of-, theso rnins; covering,' >as they do, 5 .hundreds ofacres of .- land; and repre- ,: intensely; t f interesting. : and - " On; -some f other occasion I hope i; to deal more' adeJ .quately with .these fascinating topics.- In. P tlie meantime 1,-trust that , theso brief r sketches will- glvo- the. reader some: idea ? ; :pf;.what' : ;is'Ho.';W;S^n;in^^ ; cities,:in;'tb.is;beauhful J ;interesting,:anil ' friendly land.