TOO FANTASTIC FOR WORDS

Chronicle (Levin), 29 August 1946, Page 8

TOO FANTASTIC FOR WORDS

MR. BILLENS SEES SOMETHING OF FRANCE The latest letter from Mr. R, H Billens, manafing-director of "The Chronicle," written in Baden Bader on July 10, covers his imprfessions oi the Black Forest, Strasbourg, Hamburg, Paris and London once more "This is too fantastie for words, ' he writes. • ' This morning I wai brealcfasting in Hamburg, and now at about midniglit I am supposed to be retiring in an elegant bed-sit'ting roon in a fairy-lilte chalet. This is the moun tain retreat of wealthy. merchants ir the famous spa disp'iet in Alsaee-Lor-raine about 400 miles from Hamburg. This exquisite villa is situated in the Black Forest and we elimbetl from the enchauting okl-worltl oity of Baden Baden ab'out 1000 feet througli the loveliest of forests, to a spot very near the summit and were deposited in the exliilarating atmosphere. I am sitting at the moment in my boudoir — a bedsitting rooiu with early l(Jth century furniture, ratlier over ornamented but really very lovely. My table is in the centre of a large room, with a brass liedstead in oue corner, a sofa covered with flowcred t-hintz in another, a large wardrobe, whitc and gold, delicately flowerecl enrtains, and olf oue end a large bathroom with ea, marble bath and all modern appliances. The general scheme is olf white and rose pink and everything gives the impression oi dainty fresliness. "Baden Baden is in a valley sur rounded bv liilJs and was, of course, in dennan occupation for soine years be fore being liberated. All the uplanel forest villas were the holiday resorts of wealthy Alsatians and wero occupied lirst by Ilitler's minions after tlve occupation, and now by distinguislied guests .of the Frencli authorities. The city is the administrative centre oi the French sector of occnpied Genuany. In my party are Mr. Ward Price (noted war correspondent and journalist), Sir liarry Brittain (founder of the Empire Press Union), Colonel Jackson, our very popular tour conduetor, and Turner and his assistant. "From my balcony I look out over a magnilicent prospect of undulating forest and hill scenery with lovely villas dotting the tree-clad hills and eatching the rays of the evening and morning sun. Lt is like being in an entirely new world. This house, 'Maria Holden, ' is full of treasures, ancient wood carving, beautiful statuary, lovely furniture, exquisite iron work and some very fme pictures. We all want to stay up here, out of the world, but. alas, we have to move on! Tonight we had dinner with (leneral Navarre, deputy of (leneral Koenig, Frencli Oommander of the Occupied Zoue, and hero of Hakeim, in the Desert campaign. Besides our party there were a number of distingfiislred Frenchmen present and dinner was in the residence of (leneral Koenig, lasting from 8.45 until 11.30 p.m. "Our Strasbourg adventure was the funniest so f'ar. When we arrived at the airport, iive miles from the city, there was no one to meet us. There had been a bus, but the driver had a date and bolted jnst as our plane was circling ovefhead feady to land. Our live planes came down and we waited aliout in the lovely warm middav sun for over an hour. Finally we drove to Strasbourg in all sorts of vehicles and what a city it is — oue of the oldest and loveliest in Europe. But the beauty of its .quaint buildings and narrow streets is marred by the knowledge that Ihey must be appallingly unhealthv places in whieh to live. After further difHculties of transport we got away amid the cheers of the party about 4 p.m. The only delay 011 the road was vvlien the driver of the leading bus bushed straight into a standing car, right in his pathway. He must have been gazing at the village girls and completely failed to notice the little car ahead of him. That caused about half an hour's delay but we were used to it by this time and finally arriveJ about 7 p.m. "I was up early strolling round this lovely estate. An Alsatian maid knocked at my door at 7.30 a.m. and said quite a lot. I did not know what it was but followed at a distance, pointed down my tlrroat and said ' tea About 15 nxiuufes. later -slie .arrived wi^li.ni} bfieakfastyii)aqon; .jau'd eggs/ warmylifead rolls, butter, -ihiik, jaifi and tea, .yvhieh I sailed into 'w.it.h gusto. Then 1 set out 011 further exploration. There appeared to l)e live or six houses on this estate all of different types and ages of architecture. Some, I should say. are over 200 years old and amidst magnificent groves of trees with the forest - clad hills in the background tliey make an Arcadian scene. Behind oue oi tliem 1 came across a fine swimming pool. "Since Jescending from the Black Forest we have liad a hectie time. From Baden Baden we were taken on'a 70-mile trip througli Alsaee to the Uhiversity City of .Fribourg. It was a stiiling day and Ihe roads rang.ed from very good to very bad. We had a conference with General Navarre before leaving. The country was marvellous.

the old-world towns and villages being unreal in their quaint 11 ess. Some oi the houses miglit have popped out of fairy stories. All the Jabour or nearly all of it, is done by females — cow power and women power. Of course the men work too, but the women appear to work all day in the fields and then go home, trudging sometimes a mile along dusty roads, where I suppose they cook the meals. All the traetion is cow power -and even the old bull is harnessed to the farm wagon. ' Strawberry ' lias to give milk, cart the farm erops, drag the plougli, etc. This makes the Alsatian landscape fantastically different, especially as it was harvest time. But we. very soon began to tire of such scenes as ithe lieavy bus 'bumped us along in the stifling heat. After aimlessly circling tlie badly battered city trying to find our destination, the driver at long last dropped us in a cool building where we had a delightful dejeuner. We were supposed to hear a lecture at the University about how the Fr'6nch are going about turning Nazis into 100 per cent. Frenchmen on the most up-to-date denioeratic model, but everything had beconie so much delayed all we had time to do Was to take a peep at the museum which is a treasut'e house of ancient religious art. Then we mounted our buses for the retufn jotiFriey. After a 1 farewell .dinner we.. had to catck the.

train to Paris and we were glad to see Baden Baden coine in sight. We covered about 150 miles that day; then an all-night journey to Paris. It was uncomfortable but. the scenery for the last 30 miles of the journey was glorious. We arrived at 8.30 a.m. and Avent straight. to our hotels to prepare for two heavy days of sight-seeing, conferences and entertainment. We had an amazing . time visiting all the famous sights of this marvellous city of which I will write more from London."