Finding Frankfurt’s medieval heart

Press, 11 February 1986, Page 25

Finding Frankfurt’s medieval heart

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SUSAN KUROSAWA

A German friend of mine is fond of saying that the best thing about Frankfurt is the autobahn leading out of town. But then she’s from Munich and I suspect a bit of plain old rivalry is afoot.

All the same, Frankfurt is not the most attractive of cities and, although it has a very busy airport and serves as a convenient springboard to the rest of West Germany, far too few travellers spend any degree of time there. It is one of those no-nonsense places that rarely manage to seduce the firsttime visitor. It weis flattened by bombs during World War II and most of the present architecture is of the tasteless post-war variety. The highrise apartment blocks resemble filing cabinets, the autobahns stretch in seemingly endless loops, and the big department stores feature stern facades and unpromising window displays. Scratch the surface, however, and you’ll find unexpected pockets of culture and character. Take Sachsenhausen, for example. This medieval core of Frankfurt escaped damage during the war and has been preserved as the main entertainment quarter of the city. The ankle-twisting cobblestoned streets weave past gaudy stripclubs, boisterous beer halls, curious little half-timbered shops, and jolly restaurants. There is a mad combination of Gothic gloom and 1930 s decadence. This is "Cabaret” country; only a skerrick of imagination is required to imagine Marlene Dietrich swivelling her way through a smoke-filled Sachsenhausen dive.

Much safer and more sanitised are the replica buildings in the Romerberg. Skilled artisans have reconstructed rows of trim medieval buildings, some with Legoland-style pointed roofs; noble churches, and quaint curio stores with fluttering pennants and half-timbered facades. Big tubs of vibrant geraniums; give the Romerberg square a festive touch; there is an ornate seventeen century fountain,

and a fifteen century town hall where kings were crowned amid grave Teutonic ceremony. ■ Nearby stands Geothe Haus, the birthplace of the famous German literary figure. The airy rooms in this lovely building seem like Flemish paintings come to life; the poet’s personal possessions and hand-written works are on display throughout the home.

Many Europeans refer to the city as “Bankfurt” and there are some 400 banking buildings in the city. Most of these are tall, gleming structures; some bus tour companies have glass roofs in their coaches so passengers can look up and see the tops of the giant banks. Sandwiched between are various shopping malls, and there is an underground shopping centre, Hauptwache, which goes on for kilometres and contains a great array of stores.

The Main river traverses the city and the inhabitants are fond of sunbaking and picnicking along its bank, or just lazing under the pretty linden trees along the riverside boulevards. On week-ends an old tram does trips alongside the Main; delicious apfelwein is served on board and oompah band music is played. There are plenty of little awninged cafes, or konditorie, where you can sit and tuck into seductive black forest cake and fragrant coffee. There are various bus trips available out of Frankfurt. Some of the more popular options are the Taunus Hills, Hochst and Konigstein. The fast, orderly autobahn system allows you to take in a swag of sightseeing in a relatively short time. The countryside around Frankfurt is speckled with storybook villages, fortresses and lots of those fabled German castles. But it is the city itself that deserves more than just a cursory glace. I think my Munich friend needs to be reminded that the autobohan runs in both directions.